Only hot air coming through the vents...
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Only hot air coming through the vents...
And much to my dismay, it's NOT the heater rod clip that sits above my right knee. While the clip is missing the rod is firmly in place in the white bushing.
Any other ideas?
Any other ideas?
#3
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2007
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I had the same issue and mine turned out to be the temperature control unit. From what i can tell they're a big problem on these cars and the ones on ebay are hit-or-miss. They also vary in internal design a lot over the years.
Since you have a later model car you might get lucky and have one of the more "advanced" ones (which have a LOT fewer caps and junk). I took mine apart and found that the potentiometer behind the temperature **** had snapped off one of the "ears". Here's a little thread i made about it: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-unit-diy.html
I'm no expert on these cars and you may have something completely different wrong with yours (and the repair that i posted is pretty time-consuming), but once you check everything else, give it a shot...
Since you have a later model car you might get lucky and have one of the more "advanced" ones (which have a LOT fewer caps and junk). I took mine apart and found that the potentiometer behind the temperature **** had snapped off one of the "ears". Here's a little thread i made about it: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-unit-diy.html
I'm no expert on these cars and you may have something completely different wrong with yours (and the repair that i posted is pretty time-consuming), but once you check everything else, give it a shot...
#4
Rennlist Member
Check the vent flaps to make sure they move as intended with the linkage is attached. Climate unit is always a possibility, and I presume a bad heater valve or could fail open (though not sure about that...).
#5
Race Car
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
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yes the heater valves fail open which is full heat. This is for safety in cold german climate. You can test the valve by applying vacuum to it and seeing if it holds. If the diaphram inside is not holding vacuum, it is possible to take the valve apart and replace just that piece for a few bucks. Barring that and the clips, it is most likely a failed TCU, which as stated are hit or miss and tend to be on the pricey side. Like a DME or KLR failure, it is possible to open them up and attempt a repair if you know what you're looking at. I will be doing this shortly as I have determined my TCU is bad and I will die shortly in the south texas summer.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok, turns out the later 944 have two rods down there. I saw the first one connected and didn't bother to continue looking. Then I re-read the Clarks Garage tech note, which said there are two rods. So I went and looked again and this is what I found. So happy this is all the issue is!!
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#9
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Looking at your picture; the other plastic rod holder/pivot bearing is missing the spring clip that holds everything together. Did you remove it for the picture? When mine broke; I noticed this metal clip on the floor and wondered where it came from; then looked up and realized the plastic pivot that holds the heater control rod was broken.
#12
There is also a T against the firewall near the FPR sometimes one of the lines pops off and you get nothing but hot air, might be it, might not.