3pc crossover for track?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
3pc crossover for track?
I added one of these, and have been having the bolts back out. I'm replacing with diferent bolts, lock washers..etc. anyone else have this issue?
#5
Ive had the 3pc crossmember for years and not had issues. I check the bolts from time to time. I had the older design 3pc crossover and had issues with it leaking so upgraded to the new Lindsey style and its been great.
#6
And you are basing this on what???????????
The 3 piece crossover is/was a bad idea to start.
If you are having bolts back out, try some lock nuts (crush style copper or steel ones like on our exhaust studs work really well and nylon lock nuts not so much in heat sensitive areas). Lock washers aren't nearly as effective as most make them out to be.
If you are having bolts back out, try some lock nuts (crush style copper or steel ones like on our exhaust studs work really well and nylon lock nuts not so much in heat sensitive areas). Lock washers aren't nearly as effective as most make them out to be.
#7
Three Wheelin'
I've had no issue with my 3 piece cross over with many track events, that's all my car does. A 3 piece cross member makes me nervous, but that is a personal opinion based on no facts.
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#8
Burning Brakes
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For what it is worth I have a few friends that race with them and have had problems with the bolts backing out and the holes cracking out. I was also told that PCA is considering banning them for club racing as others have had safety issues with heavy track use. Street car use is fine but the added stress loads from track use is creating problems.
#10
Well see now if you read Craig's response.....Hey Craig still haven't used the Head I bought off you.....
There is an answer with some history etc.
Some background info would be useful.
With anything for track use there is going to be wear, more maintenance, costs. Yes the 3 piece does add another dynamic so to speak to the car. I'd be curious with the issues people have experienced how often this was checked or if it was never looked at until it became and issue.
For street use mine has been fine. I also play around with my car all the time checking things but thats just me enjoying what I like. The only thing I ever had come loose were my CV bolts. Issue now fixed.
Respectfully as to what you know or don't know is not what I am looking to discuss. Simply stating it's bad without saying why... does not accomplish anything other than we know you don't like it.
Anyhow if winter would just end I could actually drive my car instead of clean it for the 10000000th time.
There is an answer with some history etc.
Some background info would be useful.
With anything for track use there is going to be wear, more maintenance, costs. Yes the 3 piece does add another dynamic so to speak to the car. I'd be curious with the issues people have experienced how often this was checked or if it was never looked at until it became and issue.
For street use mine has been fine. I also play around with my car all the time checking things but thats just me enjoying what I like. The only thing I ever had come loose were my CV bolts. Issue now fixed.
Respectfully as to what you know or don't know is not what I am looking to discuss. Simply stating it's bad without saying why... does not accomplish anything other than we know you don't like it.
Anyhow if winter would just end I could actually drive my car instead of clean it for the 10000000th time.
#11
Drifting
Well it would not surprise me if the cracking at the bolts were from the bolts loosening and
then you have stress not only on the bolts but also on the material around the bolt holes.
(maybe I'm biased as I just bought a 3 piece cross-member and want to install it :-)
Now if you really want to consider fatigue and safety -- how many ball joints/A-arm failures
have there been -- and what are the ramifications? Fortunately I have not seen
one -- but a know a few folks that have and sounds way more scary of a track failure.
M
then you have stress not only on the bolts but also on the material around the bolt holes.
(maybe I'm biased as I just bought a 3 piece cross-member and want to install it :-)
Now if you really want to consider fatigue and safety -- how many ball joints/A-arm failures
have there been -- and what are the ramifications? Fortunately I have not seen
one -- but a know a few folks that have and sounds way more scary of a track failure.
M
#12
Nordschleife Master
I had the nuts from Lindsey back out entirely... They were the lock Nuys with the serrated face. Replaced with nylon lock nuts and no issues for several years on the street.
The aluminum they use for the flange is very soft though. You can deform it if you torque it up too much. At least that is what I noticed.
If you think about it, there should be very little load going thru those bolts...
The aluminum they use for the flange is very soft though. You can deform it if you torque it up too much. At least that is what I noticed.
If you think about it, there should be very little load going thru those bolts...
#13
One can use lock nuts "As stated earlier"
I don't think there should be any heat issues but will check on that later.
Use longer bolts to reduce the stretch forces on the bolts.
A properly built flange can be built to be as strong as the original one piece but can never, for obvious reasons be made stronger than original.
You can use loctite or like thread locker to help seal the thread and prevent movement.
I would also use PRC-870 or similar product to encapsulate the bolts to prevent corrosion and also aid in keeping the bolts in place.
And lastly use proper torque for the bolts. A properly torqued bolt should never come loose.
The loosening action in this case is a function of stretching forces on the bolts....which causes the slow backing out of the hardware.
The negative to the flange is it will be heavier than the original one piece......but who cares.....were talking very little weight in this case.
Oddly enough myself and the other engineers at work were talking about the function of stretch and loosening of threads today.
I don't think there should be any heat issues but will check on that later.
Use longer bolts to reduce the stretch forces on the bolts.
A properly built flange can be built to be as strong as the original one piece but can never, for obvious reasons be made stronger than original.
You can use loctite or like thread locker to help seal the thread and prevent movement.
I would also use PRC-870 or similar product to encapsulate the bolts to prevent corrosion and also aid in keeping the bolts in place.
And lastly use proper torque for the bolts. A properly torqued bolt should never come loose.
The loosening action in this case is a function of stretching forces on the bolts....which causes the slow backing out of the hardware.
The negative to the flange is it will be heavier than the original one piece......but who cares.....were talking very little weight in this case.
Oddly enough myself and the other engineers at work were talking about the function of stretch and loosening of threads today.
#14
Three Wheelin'
I can only say one thing that needs to be said here:
Nord-Lock
This washer will make anyone who ever needs a secure fitment which never backs out very happy!
Nord-Lock
This washer will make anyone who ever needs a secure fitment which never backs out very happy!
#15
Drifting
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I used Stage 8 locking fasteners, no problems, no worries. If you can afford a Porsche, you can afford the proper hardware. They also are on my wastegate and CV axles. More and more places are now offering them. Absolutely great product I found at SEMA a long time ago. It won product of the year or something like that.