high idle
07-07-2013, 07:56 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Sorry, replace or refurbish which part? I'd start with a solid diagnosis before replacing or refurbishing parts. Sometimes it's worth trying an educated guess, but I don't get the sense that your shop has really done that, especially if the car is idling at a steady 2k rpms. Check out the clarks-garage links in my post above.
07-08-2013, 09:35 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Speaking of expensive parts, I just got charged $403.00 for one reference sensor!!
I didn't pay for it though, because I didn't make the choice to go ahead and order it. Someone else did. Fewf!
I didn't pay for it though, because I didn't make the choice to go ahead and order it. Someone else did. Fewf!
07-12-2013, 09:11 PM
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: L.I. New York
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I now find that the ISV was stuck...The mechanic tapped on it, heard a click, idle went back to normal. So the question is how hard is it to clean, if its possible, w/o removing the manifold. If I have to remove the manifold is it a tough job and what should I replace prior to reinstalling. (hoses/gaskets- part numbers of possible)
07-13-2013, 07:39 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Remove the manifold to get the ISV. All you need to put the manifold back on are the gaskets for the intake runners.
Removing the manifold is quite simple, but like most things on these cars, fairly time consuming. I'd give myself an afternoon to do it if I were doing it for the first time.
Depressurize the fuel system. Unscrew the fuel pressure damper hose from the damper. Undo the clamp on the fuel pressure regulator and pull the hose. Unscrew the 2 fuel rail bolts in the cam tower. Pull and label the spark plug wires (1-4). Pull the boost pipe that connects to the throttle body. Undo the all the bolts holding down the intake manifold and yank it!
You can leave all the vacuum hoses attached to the manifold if you'd like, to make re-assembly simpler. Make sure the gasket surfaces are clean and don't have gouges in them. If the old gaskets get caked on, you can scrape the material off with a new razor blade.
Removing the manifold is quite simple, but like most things on these cars, fairly time consuming. I'd give myself an afternoon to do it if I were doing it for the first time.
Depressurize the fuel system. Unscrew the fuel pressure damper hose from the damper. Undo the clamp on the fuel pressure regulator and pull the hose. Unscrew the 2 fuel rail bolts in the cam tower. Pull and label the spark plug wires (1-4). Pull the boost pipe that connects to the throttle body. Undo the all the bolts holding down the intake manifold and yank it!
You can leave all the vacuum hoses attached to the manifold if you'd like, to make re-assembly simpler. Make sure the gasket surfaces are clean and don't have gouges in them. If the old gaskets get caked on, you can scrape the material off with a new razor blade.
07-14-2013, 02:51 PM
#22
i had the same problem with mine years ago. easy fix for me. i got a new idle stablizer and throttle position switch fixed it right away. i also noticed my rpm gauge would slowly return to idle when it was reved up for a second. a new set of ignition wires fixed that. good luck
