Rogue_Ant

Glad to hear your getting the car sorted... Another way of thinking about it - every boost leak is an energy leak, it is your best interest to eliminate all boost leaks possible.

Carlsbergas

Yeah that diverter valve leak was messing up with my spool time and boost

I think my last dino while still having welt chips had same boost leak, o well i hoping to see some big numbers next time im hitting dyno

Carlsbergas

Dont mind the 2nd and 3rd run afr ratio, exhaust came of. im not impressed with the numbers tho, gonna need to check my injector flow, and i have no idea why numbers are low like this, dyno was a mustang btw they say it always reads a llitle bit lower than other dyno



And here is my old dyno run with welt chips

Carlsbergas

One intresting note first run they did they hadnt turned on 4wd dyno only my back wheels were spining so result was 450whp after that they did 3 runs where my front and back wheels were turning

onspeed

What? Why would you need front wheels spinning for a rear wheel drive car?

Also, your AFR is still too rich.

Carlsbergas

I dont know, thats their setup for new cars with traction controls.. what should be optimal afr?

333pg333

Errr....huh???

Carlsbergas

They connect back dyno rollers to the front ones so when my rear wheels start to spin it makes front rollers start spinning too

333pg333

Hmm...that sounds weird. If your rear wheels are in effect driving the front ones you'd be suffering a heap of parasitic loss. Also, from what I can see, your car registered about 240whp. Where is the 450whp?

Reimu

I'm confused

mtnman82

+1

I've seen tons of pic's on here with the front wheels strapped down on the dyno.

Bur with your setup 240whp with an issue or two to fix seems a lot more realistic than 450whp.

???

Carlsbergas

They didnt save that run because it was so inaccurate.. im giving up on runing rich solution.. i hope injector flow matching and cleaning will help even out the jaggedeness in power and torque

Carlsbergas

Then again i always forget that i have 2degree timing advance wich should drop my top end power and get me low end

User 52121

You probably still have a boost leak or 3.

odb812

I agree. OP, your AFR going very rich at the same point on the graph where you're hitting full boost is a pretty good sign of a boost leak.

To touch on a more basic point, you are going to spend a ton of money getting your car in order the way you are approaching it now. Unless it's free, hold off on the dyno time until you know you've sorted out all of your issues. Pick up a wideband O2 sensor and aftermarket boost gauge if you haven't already and spend some time on here reading about how to use them. Then proceed with the dyno runs and go fast stuff after you see the car is running properly.