Carlsbergas

Thing is i did check for boost leaks by pressuring intake system and spraying soapy water didnt find any leaks after i fixed bov leak wich was noticable on my boost gauge car used to boost to 18 and drop to 17 doesnt do that anymore, i have a narrowband afr gauge wich is pretty much useless. I just dont know where to look for boost leaks..

onspeed

Look into fueling issues. Maybe chips were meant for a different FPR or injectors?

Carlsbergas

Joshua custom tuned the a-tune dme chip to support my 72l injectors, im thinking of sending them for cleaning and flow matching. And i have adj. Fpr wich is runing 3bars when i disconect vacuum line from it for checking

I didnt check whats in my klr box it might be weltmaister chip. Can this be an issue runing rogue a tune dme and welmaister klr? Should i try to find and buy stock klr chip?

User 52121

KLR chip won't matter.

Dirty injectors would result in a lean mixture, not a rich one.

You still have leaks.

odb812

Dirty injectors:
No, as stated would cause the car to be lean and wouldn't be a huge change in AFR.

Chips not matched to injectors:
No, your AFR would be all rich across the board or all lean across the board.

It's hard to read the graphs you posted, but you look lean before boost and then very rich right when you hit full boost. That means you have vacuum/boost leaks.

Identifying vacuum/boost leaks is an iterative process. After you uncover and fix the first boost leak, you need to test again. It is possible that you will only uncover the largest leak, not every leak, on any given test.

Carlsbergas

Yeah might be true, ill just replace every hose, seal and clamp in the intake system to be shure im not leaking any boost

Carlsbergas

Can a boost/vacuum leak cause that jagedness in power and torque lines?

odb812

I wouldn't worry about that, it's most likely because of the amount of smoothing the dyno operator is using. Right now you should only really be worried about the AFR line on the graph. Get the leaks straightened out, make sure the engine is healthy, and the power will come too.

If your first boost leak(diverter valve, right?) was as bad as it sounds, you may want to try the same pressure test again. If you don't find anything there, try putting everything back together and listening for vacuum leaks with the engine idling. Holding a piece of rubber tubing to your ear on one end and different connections on the other, you can target what you're listening to. While putting a wrench or screw driver on each clamp and checking they're tight may be a good idea, I wouldn't go blindly replacing lines. You'll just add more variables.

Carlsbergas

Ordered some lactite to seal banjo bolts and two bolts going into the j boot they were leaking too, and ordered new silicone lines going from AOS old ones are squishy and look that they are really in a bad shape, ordered new hardpipe connectors too my old ones tend to pop out from time to time even if i have my clamps tightened as hell. Then ill do another pressure test.. i just want to end this headache with those leaks

odb812

Think of it as a rite of passage for a new 951 owner. We've all been there before.

Carlsbergas

I feel stupid now.. i dont know how i missed it but i did, one of the connecting ruber hoses from turbocharger to hardpipe had a lose clamp where it goes on turbocharger.. so thats one down car idles and rides much more smoother now

Edit: just drove the car, boost hits 17psi like 700rpms earlier

Carlsbergas

Resurrecting this thread, now i have a wideband installed, on the quick drive i had i saw thease numbers:
Idle 14.9-16.0 jumping around probably dme working on closed loop
Full throttle: gets into ~10.2
What numbers i should see?

Techno Duck

14.7 @ idle and part throttle cruise.

12.5-12.8 from 0-5psi, full boost 11.7-11.8

Carlsbergas

My new 02 sensor should be ariving today, im runing at 16psi with 72lb injectors a d rogue a-tune, fixed (all) boost leaks atleast major ones, i still have pre turbo exhaust leaks wich my play with the afr ratios for wideband. But right now my major intrest will be fixing the left snapped motor mount

Carlsbergas

been driving and checking afr ratios so. idle is 14.7-15.8 jumping cause car runs in closed loop ?
0-5psi its around 12.5-12.8
full boost is 10.9-11.8