Blown 944 Hybrid Stroker DIY Guide
01-29-2014, 04:57 PM
#31
Going with the pack
is quite monotonous.
Rennlist Member
is quite monotonous.
Rennlist Member
How deep is your new 'floor' ? I am curious to compare that to the depth of the 3.0 block.
Are you using straight liners or do they have a flange/shoulder/whatever?
Are you using straight liners or do they have a flange/shoulder/whatever?
01-29-2014, 05:16 PM
#32
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Thread Starter
Shawn, you're doing a wonderful job with this write up. Thank you again.
A couple of things of note;
Crank grinder should be able to keep the crank straight if they are cautious when grinding each journal. It is imperative that they watch the runout as they are machining.
Regarding the radius at the big end; we used to have cranks ground with a "fat radius" and used narrow race bearings on small block chevys. Same idea here.
Rods need all ends machined for pins.
If any aluminum makes contact at the bottom of the cylinder, the skirt will gall and ruin the cylinders.
May want to add the option of using flanged sleeves if your machinist will do it. This provides a nice sealing area for the HG.
Also unlike doing a factory stroker, these do not require clearancing at the girdle.
The wet paper towel idea to block ports and to shape water pump inlet works very well and easily removed.
When having the crank ground I wanted a racing clearance for the rod bearings. Iirc, I specd .002. I believe that info is in my original thread.
A couple of things of note;
Crank grinder should be able to keep the crank straight if they are cautious when grinding each journal. It is imperative that they watch the runout as they are machining.
Regarding the radius at the big end; we used to have cranks ground with a "fat radius" and used narrow race bearings on small block chevys. Same idea here.
Rods need all ends machined for pins.
If any aluminum makes contact at the bottom of the cylinder, the skirt will gall and ruin the cylinders.
May want to add the option of using flanged sleeves if your machinist will do it. This provides a nice sealing area for the HG.
Also unlike doing a factory stroker, these do not require clearancing at the girdle.
The wet paper towel idea to block ports and to shape water pump inlet works very well and easily removed.
When having the crank ground I wanted a racing clearance for the rod bearings. Iirc, I specd .002. I believe that info is in my original thread.
01-29-2014, 05:18 PM
#33
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Thread Starter
01-29-2014, 06:13 PM
#36
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Thread Starter
The motor cools fine, no heat issues what-so-ever. I think Porsche realized this as they raised the floor quite a bit on the 3L blocks. Drove my car all summer here in Hotlanta with no problems.
01-29-2014, 10:55 PM
#37
Burning Brakes
That's good to hear. I just measured the floor depth on my filled block and coincidentally it's right at 1.65".
01-30-2014, 01:36 AM
#38
Race Car
Most of the cooling is done around the head surface. It is a good idea to use a larger oil cooler to mitigate a possible rise in oil temps.
02-09-2014, 11:32 AM
#40
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Thread Starter
02-09-2014, 03:33 PM
#41
Drifting
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Looking forward to that! Can you add a section on what benefits if any to starting with a 3.0L block? I like the idea of the Siamese cylinders and oil squirters even if not necessary. Along with what you would consider "too big" . I think 3.3L is about the biggest, but Sid and yourself are the experts.
Last edited by URG8RB8; 02-09-2014 at 04:47 PM.
02-09-2014, 04:36 PM
#42
Race Car
The immediate benefits of using a 3.0 to start are the factory oil squirters, larger bore size to start,siamesed cylinders, the factory raised floor (although with a deck plate that's minimized).
I could make mine a 3.3 using the 2.5 block to start, since I'm using ductile iron thinner sleeves and deck plate. I just need a 3.0 crank and different pistons. Going the same route on a 3.0 block, you could do an even larger bore. Tbh though, unless you are going to a 16v head, the resulting added bore wouldn't yield much more power.
A 3.3 is the easiest larger engine as the bore size is the same as a 400 sbc and pistons are readily available. Sleeves are also easily attained. Along with not needing a deck plate or dartons.
The largest combo I've come up with, short of adding a welded stroker crank, is 3.6L. I dont see a reason for it though.
I could make mine a 3.3 using the 2.5 block to start, since I'm using ductile iron thinner sleeves and deck plate. I just need a 3.0 crank and different pistons. Going the same route on a 3.0 block, you could do an even larger bore. Tbh though, unless you are going to a 16v head, the resulting added bore wouldn't yield much more power.
A 3.3 is the easiest larger engine as the bore size is the same as a 400 sbc and pistons are readily available. Sleeves are also easily attained. Along with not needing a deck plate or dartons.
The largest combo I've come up with, short of adding a welded stroker crank, is 3.6L. I dont see a reason for it though.
02-09-2014, 04:51 PM
#43
Drifting
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Thanks Sid! I guess the squirters work better than the squirrels! Ha Ha Ha, just saw the typo and corrected it. Does filling the block effect the windage ports on the 3.0L block?