Can tower seal
#1
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Location: Houston, TX
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Can tower seal
Since no one has even replied to my for sale thread I think I need to take the plunge and replace my cam tower gasket to fix my oil leak.
From the looks of it I will need to remove intake manifold and fuel rail before tackling this.
Anything I need to watch out for?
I imagine since I'm taking off the cam tower I'll need to use clarks guide on cam removal to ensure I keep cam timing correct when reinstalling.
From the looks of it I will need to remove intake manifold and fuel rail before tackling this.
Anything I need to watch out for?
I imagine since I'm taking off the cam tower I'll need to use clarks guide on cam removal to ensure I keep cam timing correct when reinstalling.
#2
Rennlist Member
You have to take off the fuel rail and flop it to the side (leave the hoses connected), but you don't have to mess with the intake.
Park the engine at TDC and take off the timing belt. Take off the bolt caps from the cam box, then break all of the cam box bolts loose before removing any (otherwise the last one will strip from being under so much tension).
Stand on the passenger side of the car and "roll" the cam box towards you when you remove it - you'll be able to catch the lifters and slide them into their bores.
When you go to reassemble it, put engine assembly lube on the lifters, and that will "stick" them into place just long enough to get the cam box back on the head without them falling out.
Park the engine at TDC and take off the timing belt. Take off the bolt caps from the cam box, then break all of the cam box bolts loose before removing any (otherwise the last one will strip from being under so much tension).
Stand on the passenger side of the car and "roll" the cam box towards you when you remove it - you'll be able to catch the lifters and slide them into their bores.
When you go to reassemble it, put engine assembly lube on the lifters, and that will "stick" them into place just long enough to get the cam box back on the head without them falling out.
#6
Before loosening cam tower bolts place some towel alongside the cam housing so that all the oil won't leak too much on headers as you loosen the bolts.
Place the power steering tank ahead, strap it to the headlight motor so that you have most room when accessing the lowest frontward bolt and be comfortable overall during the complete operation.
You can use a long piece of cardbox to retain the lifters in place as you take off the cam tower, to avoid they drop down. This helps when putting back the cam tower in place as the engine holder bolted to the rear can prevent perfect alignment right away. No need for ****ty assembly lube then.
If the seal falls apart and sticks to the head, make sure you clean up the whole surface before installation, using eg a cutter blade.
Don't forget the two lower bolts below the cam pulley that attach the rear belt housing to the cam pulley housing. Pay attention to it when you fit back the cam tower as it can get behind the cam pulley housing instead of staying ahead. Make sure to place back these bolts before the timing belt.
Make sure you have a magnet stick in case you drop one of the upper cam housing bolts into the housing during removal/installation.
Clean up the lower cam housing bolt holes that will have filled up with oil as you will have loosened the housing.
Inspect your lifters and cam lobes for wear and/or damage.
If you wish to replace the seals for the pulley housing then loosen the main bolt with the cam housing still on the head. The front bolt is tight and it's easier to do it in situ. Of course make sure you turn the cam as little as possible when doing that. In fact it's best to loosen the front bolt before removing the timing belt off the cam pulley.
Place the power steering tank ahead, strap it to the headlight motor so that you have most room when accessing the lowest frontward bolt and be comfortable overall during the complete operation.
You can use a long piece of cardbox to retain the lifters in place as you take off the cam tower, to avoid they drop down. This helps when putting back the cam tower in place as the engine holder bolted to the rear can prevent perfect alignment right away. No need for ****ty assembly lube then.
If the seal falls apart and sticks to the head, make sure you clean up the whole surface before installation, using eg a cutter blade.
Don't forget the two lower bolts below the cam pulley that attach the rear belt housing to the cam pulley housing. Pay attention to it when you fit back the cam tower as it can get behind the cam pulley housing instead of staying ahead. Make sure to place back these bolts before the timing belt.
Make sure you have a magnet stick in case you drop one of the upper cam housing bolts into the housing during removal/installation.
Clean up the lower cam housing bolt holes that will have filled up with oil as you will have loosened the housing.
Inspect your lifters and cam lobes for wear and/or damage.
If you wish to replace the seals for the pulley housing then loosen the main bolt with the cam housing still on the head. The front bolt is tight and it's easier to do it in situ. Of course make sure you turn the cam as little as possible when doing that. In fact it's best to loosen the front bolt before removing the timing belt off the cam pulley.
Last edited by Thom; 11-04-2014 at 07:34 PM.