Clutch Pedal Operation Question
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Clutch Pedal Operation Question
Charged up the battery and took my 944 Turbo off the jack stands today so that my step son could use it in some of his senior pictures. First off I haven't driven the are a lot so it could be my mind playing tricks on me, put the clutch pedal feels different, the clutch seems to work fine, but..... When you push in the clutch and then let off it stops half or three quarters up and after a bit pops up the rest of the way.
I am probably not doing enough research or Google search, but I thought I would ask if anyone has experienced this, is it a broken spring somewhere, a clutch cylinder going bad or adjustment, or maybe just hasn't been used all winter and needs to "loosen up". I figure I shouldn't drive it until I figure it out in case the slave unit or something is going bad and I could get stranded with no clutch.
Thanks in advance!
I am probably not doing enough research or Google search, but I thought I would ask if anyone has experienced this, is it a broken spring somewhere, a clutch cylinder going bad or adjustment, or maybe just hasn't been used all winter and needs to "loosen up". I figure I shouldn't drive it until I figure it out in case the slave unit or something is going bad and I could get stranded with no clutch.
Thanks in advance!
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
#4
Rennlist Member
If it was fine before it sat, and is now not popping up all the way, it's highly likely you have a hydraulics failure. Look for leaks on the ground under the car and on the carpet in the cabin behind the clutch pedal. Also, pump the pedal a dozen times or so and see if it gets stiffer -- if so, it's just another indicator of a leak, as the air in the lines warms up and compresses less when hot.
From experience, whichever part failed, it's best to change the master, slave, and the hydraulic line that connect the two. When I got my car in the 90's, I changed them one at a time, as each new part would stress the old parts into leaking. Once you bleed the clutch, you'll appreciate the benefit of doing it one time and not three.
From experience, whichever part failed, it's best to change the master, slave, and the hydraulic line that connect the two. When I got my car in the 90's, I changed them one at a time, as each new part would stress the old parts into leaking. Once you bleed the clutch, you'll appreciate the benefit of doing it one time and not three.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
If it was fine before it sat, and is now not popping up all the way, it's highly likely you have a hydraulics failure. Look for leaks on the ground under the car and on the carpet in the cabin behind the clutch pedal. Also, pump the pedal a dozen times or so and see if it gets stiffer -- if so, it's just another indicator of a leak, as the air in the lines warms up and compresses less when hot.
From experience, whichever part failed, it's best to change the master, slave, and the hydraulic line that connect the two. When I got my car in the 90's, I changed them one at a time, as each new part would stress the old parts into leaking. Once you bleed the clutch, you'll appreciate the benefit of doing it one time and not three.
From experience, whichever part failed, it's best to change the master, slave, and the hydraulic line that connect the two. When I got my car in the 90's, I changed them one at a time, as each new part would stress the old parts into leaking. Once you bleed the clutch, you'll appreciate the benefit of doing it one time and not three.
Thanks for the advise, can't wait to have all the little items taken care of and just get to drive it! LOL. Think I have an electrical short to track down, battery seems to drain slowly.
#6
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I will investigate, but it did not seam to be pumping up like when you have air in your brake line and it seemed to be working, but it did seem to be easier to operate than in the past so it could be air in the line. Thanks for the feed back, I wish these cars weren't so low to the ground and a bit of a pain to get jacked up high, can't even drive up on the low profile car ramps I got!
Thanks for the advise, can't wait to have all the little items taken care of and just get to drive it! LOL. Think I have an electrical short to track down, battery seems to drain slowly.
Thanks for the advise, can't wait to have all the little items taken care of and just get to drive it! LOL. Think I have an electrical short to track down, battery seems to drain slowly.
Alex
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#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Yes, I investigated more, the travel has two hitches in it so I thought maybe it was mechanical at first, but removing the boot on the shaft allowed me to discover hydraulic fluid leak.
Thanks everyone for your input.
Thanks everyone for your input.
#10
This didn't cost
me any drachmas
Rennlist Member
me any drachmas
Rennlist Member
That sounds like what has happened with my '86 after it sat in the garage for the winter. The only difference is my clutch pedal goes to the floor and won't return to the up position along with a puddle of fluid under the car located just to the right of the oil pan (it's never leaked oil). I'll get in there after it warms up outside...if it ever warms up...and see what all is needed to fix it (master, slave, fluid hose, etc.).
#11
Rennlist Member
OK, so it looks like I have some hydraulic clutch work to do soon...
I posted about this months ago after mine sat for a while too. It does the same thing - comes up about 3/4 the way then seems to stick before popping the rest of the way up. It gets better as I use it throughout the day.
Curious why a hydraulic leak would prevent the pedal from popping back up - hydraulic pressure returns the pedal to position??!!??
I posted about this months ago after mine sat for a while too. It does the same thing - comes up about 3/4 the way then seems to stick before popping the rest of the way up. It gets better as I use it throughout the day.
Curious why a hydraulic leak would prevent the pedal from popping back up - hydraulic pressure returns the pedal to position??!!??
#12
Rennlist Member
OK, so it looks like I have some hydraulic clutch work to do soon...
I posted about this months ago after mine sat for a while too. It does the same thing - comes up about 3/4 the way then seems to stick before popping the rest of the way up. It gets better as I use it throughout the day.
Curious why a hydraulic leak would prevent the pedal from popping back up - hydraulic pressure returns the pedal to position??!!??
I posted about this months ago after mine sat for a while too. It does the same thing - comes up about 3/4 the way then seems to stick before popping the rest of the way up. It gets better as I use it throughout the day.
Curious why a hydraulic leak would prevent the pedal from popping back up - hydraulic pressure returns the pedal to position??!!??
#13
Rennlist Member
I suppose it's really the pressure plate springs pushing the pedal up, but without hydraulics that spring pressure never makes it's way to the pedal. There is a helper spring under the dash, but that actually helps push the pedal down so it's easier to step on. It's that spring under the dash that makes the pedal snap down to the floor when the hydraulics are completely empty.
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
Well, it looks like you might have to bleed the clutch master cylinder at the clutch slave unit. The car is so low, it makes it a chore to get it up high enough to work on it, so I will probably not dive into it until I get back from vacation mid April. Have to toss a AC compressor in there a well, so sounds like I will try to kill a few birds with one stone.
Thanks for the information about the spring, one of these days I will get on top of all these little things that have to be taken care of.
Thanks for the information about the spring, one of these days I will get on top of all these little things that have to be taken care of.