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Well.. That didn't go so well. Dremel (4 bits), hole saw, hardened steel drill bit.. it took everything to get through the bolt and the ez out. It's a mess in there.
There's a chance that a 12.7mm (half inch) carbide drill bit could clean it all up to make a larger hole for a M14X1.5 tap. I'm slightly concerned that part of the wall was burned with the dremel as shown in the picture but boring a larger hole could clean it up. Should I give a tap a try or cut my losses and get the trailing arm from Lart? Removing the entire brake assembly, hub etc sounds like a major headache... not to mention more rusty bolts.
Maybe it's just the picture, but looks like complete success to me. Just install a helicoil now and it will be stronger than new. The drill size for an M14 helicoil is 9/16", so it sounds like you have more than enough material to drill it, tap it, and install the insert. They are super easy to use and are honestly stronger than the original when installed in aluminum like that. You're 15 minutes away from the promise land...
Maybe it's just the picture, but looks like complete success to me. Just install a helicoil now and it will be stronger than new. The drill size for an M14 helicoil is 9/16", so it sounds like you have more than enough material to drill it, tap it, and install the insert. They are super easy to use and are honestly stronger than the original when installed in aluminum like that. You're 15 minutes away from the promise land...
There's definitely a bunch of thread material in the hole from the original bolt. The larger hole (9/16") will have to be made using a bit that can get through all the remaining material. That concerns me somewhat.
Time-Serts are great too, especially if you removed too much material for a helicoil, and they should be stronger still. Personally, I'd insert the smallest insert I could-- i.e., helicoil if possible, then time-sert, then Big-sert. The threads will be stronger than they were either way, but the more material you remove the weaker the surrounding aluminum casting. Can't go wrong either way though.
I'm thinking I removed too much material in the top right. Going to get the Time-Sert kit and give it a go. Really wish there were a better way to keep the drill bit stable and centered but I'll do my best.
In addition to the kit, I'll need a tap wrench. Anything else I'm missing?
Well it certainly wasn't due to a lack of effort but the time-sert didn't work out. Was able to bore out the larger hole perfectly, unfortunately the tap went in straight but started cutting at an angle...soon I was chewing into more aluminum than I should have been. Win some, lose some.
Brought the car to the shop. Will likely need to get a used trailing arm. Lart, I'll reach out if that's the case.
Sorry about that. Normally you're home free once you drill straight, but it probably didn't help that you were working under the car working at weird angles to tap, etc. At some point a used arm is probably easier, but they do make "Big-Serts" which might still work (or weld it up and start over).
Sorry about that. Normally you're home free once you drill straight, but it probably didn't help that you were working under the car working at weird angles to tap, etc. At some point a used arm is probably easier, but they do make "Big-Serts" which might still work (or weld it up and start over).
Yeah, I was really excited when I had a perfectly straight hole to work with. Spent a long time double checking that the tap was centered. Funny enough it looked straight once I was going in too. It was only when I backed it out that I could see I was off a few degrees which made turning the tap harder and harder as it ate through more material.
As for the big-sert, I could only find up to M12 on their site. At this point I'm willing to through money at the situation. I spent way too long under that damn car for a broken bolt
01-31-2017, 11:46 AM
Normally you're home free once you drill straight, but it probably didn't help that you were working under the car working at weird angles to tap, etc. At some point a used arm is probably easier, but they do make "Big-Serts" which might still work (or weld it up and start over).
