When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The rubber line at the fire wall that connects the hard line from the fuel pump & goes to the fuel filter (see #12) is the one you want to replace. This line is more prone to failure (leakage) apparently so it was a no brained to replace while my engine was out. The parts you’ll need:
Belmetric (2) x CR16N Narrow Norma 7.5 mm wide (CR16N)
(1) COHL17-11.3HC Cohline hose collar (8001 1700)
(1) high spec rubber fuel hose by Cohline (per meter) from Merlin Motorsport (UK)
I had a local hydraulic shop crimp it
I just recently replaced the fuel pump (found a 944 pump in there, pos po) and was thinking to replace the line but it looked ok for now. Plus, I just didn’t want the down time. I did a similar repair from the hard line to the engine.
The hose at the pump is not polyamide, it looks like you could use Cohline 2240. The fittings are double clamp/crimp. If you were going to replace just the soft line at the pump, I’d suggest you reconfigure to the late 964/993 setup which have a softer bend.
Thanks Goughary. I know some have replaced the long rigid lines completely with new flexible tubes mainly because of corrosion but my metal lines are actually in pretty good shape. It’s just the rubber tubes, particularly the one connected to the banjo, that I’m concerned about. Has anyone crimped new rubber on these lines?
Lindsey racing sells an compression fitting for both the 8mm and 10mm hardlines to adapt to an-6. I’m going this route because my lines are in good condition as well. I only bought the 10mm for the high pressure line. The return will get clamped with something else.
Thanks for all the information. As a first step I’m going to replace the section of rubber between the fuel pump banjo and the hard pipe. I’ve already replaced all the other tank related fuel lines / breathers so I want to finish the front end of the car before replacing all the rear end pipes. Hopefully this will finally removed the fuel smell in the frunk.
I’m leaning towards replacing the banjo with a 12.5mm eye to AN6 connected to a 180deg AN6 to a short length of braided hose to AN6 - 10mm compression adapter connected to the hard line. Now to source the bits….
It's the Dorman tool. Looks like a wood working bar clamp with a special end on one side to hold the hose.
I'm concerned i didn't buy the right size collars though - so i need to experiment. Placing another order w belmetric.
The Dorman fuel line tool is 100% based off an Irwin QuickGrip Clamp. I should know as I designed the tool back in 2004 when I working at Dorman. My Original prototype was much better than unit that came out into production. It was designed to handle the small nylon hoses as well as larger hoses. Problem was that it cost too much and the unit was cheapened up to be made over seas. At least I got a patent on it.
I wish it were an easier tool to use. Sounds like your version needs to be produced - or maybe just produce small bits that attach to a standard Irwin....would be great.
I was planning a different path with replacing the rubber ends of the hard pipe but ended up using Cohline 2240. I crimped on new collars with the long feed line still in situ. The engine end of the line will need to wait until the engine is out next (it’s just to hard to get to in a RHD). Here are some pics for the record….
I crimped the banjo end on the end of Cohline 2240 and test fitted the pump with the line attached. Unfortunately the bend radius collapsed the line a bit. I used this Unicoil to help with the tube bend and it did the job fine. Here’s the crimper I used. Relatively cheap online and it allows you to do the job in confined spaces. It worked well with the. Cohline collars. Crimping in progress. All crimped, running and no signs of any leaks.
If it helps, you can get to the lines on a RHD with a little patience without removing the engine. They feed ok from underneath, you just need to remove the left rear brake cooling duct and the heater. Popping the left hand inlet manifold off isn't too difficult and helps. Most of the plastic hose clips and clamps were brittle in my car so it would pay to grab those before you start. They aren't expensive.
If you do decide to remake your lines choose your replacement fuel hose carefully and check that it can cope with the heat in the engine bay. My long lines had previously been replaced by a PO and were hard, cracked and turned freely on the ends of the hard pipe despite being double crimped.
I ended up running with the theme of this thread and ordered a new set of long lines complete from Gerd last year. Early lockdown madness, but still faster and 2/3rds the price than our local dealership.
That particular slippery slope can lead, as in my case, to replacing all the fuel lines on top of the engine as well. I couldn't make the Dorman tool work without kinking the hose so I ended up with the Koultools 409B I have no affiliation, but I'd recommend it as another good option. If you go down this route then you can reuse the factory ends if you are careful. I found that using a heat gun, a vice and some tension on the line makes recycling the barbed ends straightforward. All you need are potentially some new 8001 collars and some 3124 Cohline hose. cohpro uk were really good to use here. I was a bit worried that the 3124 hose is narrower in both ID and OD to some of the original factory hoses on my early C4, however the replacement factory hoses that I purchased via FVD and others were the same 3214 hose so presumably it isn't an issue.
Then you can have the injectors ultrasonically cleaned and...
I would definitely second the advice to replace the hoses around the fuel pump to the newer layout, they are significantly cheaper and less convoluted to route than the original ones.
You might contact Griffiths as they produce many high quality fuel lines and A/C hoses etc for these cars. May be able to send in your parts and have them fit a new hose.
I was planning a different path with replacing the rubber ends of the hard pipe but ended up using Cohline 2240. I crimped on new collars with the long feed line still in situ. The engine end of the line will need to wait until the engine is out next (it’s just to hard to get to in a RHD). Here are some pics for the record….
I crimped the banjo end on the end of Cohline 2240 and test fitted the pump with the line attached. Unfortunately the bend radius collapsed the line a bit. I used this Unicoil to help with the tube bend and it did the job fine. Here’s the crimper I used. Relatively cheap online and it allows you to do the job in confined spaces. It worked well with the. Cohline collars. Crimping in progress. All crimped, running and no signs of any leaks.
I went an opposite route and made my fuel lines using aircraft AN fittings and metric conversion fittings with stainless steel fuel lines. The fits and fuel lines were very easy to make with just a vise and standard wrench’s. Use a dremel tool to cut the stainless lines to link.
You will notice I deleted one line going to the fuel regulator and capped off the fitting. This brought the design more into the design of the 993 fuel lines. Have been running for several years like this with no issues
08-15-2021, 09:07 AM
