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Good question. I nearly went ahead with a new (Strongman) lift and just before pressing Buy I thought I better check the wheel track of my cars. The lift was too wide - it looked great but I would be unable to drive over it (even with ramps) as the distance between the inside of the front wheels were less then the frame width. I would double check that first. However, on first look your lift dimensions look pretty much the same as mine.
Since the lift I have done so many underneath jobs on all my cars - I should have got this years ago. To get the ground clearance I needed when driving over the lift I did build ramps that clear the arms and pad height (the ramps pushed nicely up against the lift frame and when in the air I move the ramps out the way. Good luck with yours.
It looks like the minimum between jack points going front to back on yours is 1395 and I think it's roughly 1440 on the car. The one I am looking at shows a minimum of 1555, which is what concerns me, although it looks like that is the minimum with the mount points fully extended. That's the bit that is concerning me.
I think the lift you are looking at has the same frame width as mine (1000mm). The arms should fold in to the inside of the (215) frame when not in use so should be ok. However, I see your problem though - the 1555 minimum front/rear jacking point distance is limited by the arc travel of the arms. Looking at your specifications drawing, the arm arc movement is kept in check by what looks like pin-stops. Personally I would back out at this point if you're not sure it's going to work.
I think the lift you are looking at has the same frame width as mine (1000mm). The arms should fold in to the inside of the (215) frame when not in use so should be ok. However, I see your problem though - the 1555 minimum front/rear jacking point distance is limited by the arc travel of the arms. Looking at your specifications drawing, the arm arc movement is kept in check by what looks like pin-stops. Personally I would back out at this point if you're not sure it's going to work.
I measured and it looks like the distance between the jack points front to back is around 1240. This matches with information I found online for what this distance should be.
The mount points do slide along the arms and so should reduce the minimum that is stated but they must state that as a minimum for a reason.
The other one I linked to looks like it would definitely work.
The mount points do slide along the arms and so should reduce the minimum that is stated but they must state that as a minimum for a reason.
The other one I linked to looks like it would definitely work.
You can see in your diagrams what looks like a hard 'stop' for each arm travel (the black dot). That's your limitation minimum distance. Wonder why they have that? Maybe the lift and car becomes less stable (unbalanced) if you were to bring the arms further back - most of the weight becomes forward of the lifting centre line.
You can see in your diagrams what looks like a hard 'stop' for each arm travel (the black dot). That's your limitation minimum distance. Wonder why they have that? Maybe the lift and car becomes less stable (unbalanced) if you were to bring the arms further back - most of the weight becomes forward of the lifting centre line.
I've no idea why they have restricted the arms like that as it's not something I have seen on any other versions of this type of lift.
I was originally going to get a Quickjack as it fits under the car ok but over here they work out to around 2,227 US Dollars... FAR more expensive than you seem to get them for in the US. At least it would be an easy solution.
A scissor lift would cost a similar amount but provide a far higher lift height, but then I need to put long ramps each side to drive the car up onto so I could get the lift points onto the jacks.
A scissor lift would cost a similar amount but provide a far higher lift height, but then I need to put long ramps each side to drive the car up onto so I could get the lift points onto the jacks.
The shipping crates for the lift and all the ancillary equipment were all plywood. I carefully removed and kept the ply and made my own full length ramps from that. I then cut each ramp in half and re-joined with locking brackets which meant I could split them and stand against the wall when not in use. If you know what I mean.
The shipping crates for the lift and all the ancillary equipment were all plywood. I carefully removed and kept the ply and made my own full length ramps from that. I then cut each ramp in half and re-joined with locking brackets which meant I could split them and stand against the wall when not in use. If you know what I mean.
Well that's rather resourceful!
Do you have any pictures of what you ended up with?
Quickjack seems a simpler solution than the scissor lift but far less height, although perhaps better access as there's nothing up the middle.
It looks like there's no issue with fitment, 18cm lowered height to the pads so a minimum ramp height of 10cm should do the trick.
They actually sell ramps to go with them but they are out of stock. Current supply chain issues seem to limit choice with a lot of these things at the moment, with the result that it's incredibly difficult to negotiate any deals.
The Quickjack over here is about the same cost as these mid-rise scissor lifts, although the Quickjack fits under the car without the need for a ramp. I cannot see myself doing any engine-out work but you never know...
The supplier of the lift that I first mentioned and provided dimensions for has kindly provided some pictures. It does have the pins shown on the diagram that restrict the range of motion. The dimensions would appear to potentially be ok though? I'm asking as I can get a bit of a discount on it equivalent to around 200 USD, so not a big deal but worth saving if possible.
Does someone happen to know the distance between the left and right jack points?
02-16-2022, 04:58 PM
Scissor Lift Dimensions
