Johnny G Pipe

Hi, the short version is - is there a quick way to take the immobiliser out of the picture, for troubleshooting purposes.

There is talk of jumping relays on a search, obviously not something that people want to share freely, but I'd appreciate a PM if that is the case..

I thought I could jumper R61 starter relay to bypass the immobiliser's block - but I don't have a starter relay, just the empty R61 socket on the fuse board.

Car is a 90MY C4 with Porsche PA1000 UK immobiliser fob (and accel chip).

Longer version may follow!

TIA, Johnny

kos11-12

Hi Johnny,
Same boat.
it took me a long time to understand, but I think I just found out.
Mine is a 92 but I guess its similar to 91.
Best will be to have the electric diagram for your car.
I will PM shortly.
All the best
Konstantin

Johnny G Pipe

Thanks. I had to get recovered last night, lucky I wasn’t far from home.
TBH I would rather run full time completely without the immobiliser if I could. At this vintage it is probably one of the weakest links in the car’s reliability..perfect for stranding you on a big trip.

misteralz

If you get an answer, can you PM me it as well? I'd like to get rid of mine too. It's a massive pain in the **** having to go through the 'process' when traffic starts moving again.

Johnny G Pipe

Is yours a push button or a stick Al? Does it do the 3 beep thing when re-arming?

I emailed the PA1000 manufacturer Hamilton-Palmer about it - their technician Jim who was involved with these systems when they were designed and fitted has finally retired. They have no parts available for this system, and suggested I remove all of it! (And replace with a modern one if needed). So, its officially obsolete..

I would probably be tempted take it to an auto-spark to have it all removed and binned..but the car is stuck at home so its going to have to be a DIY. Not my comfort area unfortunately..

misteralz

Lock, unlock, stick, silence, wiggle stick, silence, remove stick and reinsert 180⁰ from previous, three beeps, ignition on, start. Maddening.

Good luck with ripping it out. Suspect I'll be doing the same thing soon!

ALSPEAKE

I too have the same system in my 89 C4. I’m dreading the the day it leaves me stranded.
I would like to remove it but leave the remote door locking function. Incidentally Hamilton & Palmer supplied me with a new key fob case about seven years ago.

Johnny G Pipe

Ok, so I called out an autoelectrician and he had it bypassed and started before I could offer him a coffee. Sixty quid. It was one of the black wires connected to another of the black wires.
Nothing less than wizardry.
I was going to PM the interested folks but I don't actually know what he did - it is safe to say it seems quick to do if you are a half decent autoelectrician. I would highly recommend you just get someone to bypass it now and stop fumbling about with ancient immobiliser fobs!
I am going to install a hidden inline switch so I can manually immobilise the car if I need to.
(Konstantin - was great to meet you on the phone. Thanks for your interest in helping me and good luck with your wiring avalanche!)

Very happy - until they salted the roads in Scotland last week.

Ahh well, soon be spring.

seg1959

In the same boat here - My H&P immobiliser seems to have packed up and I have no way of starting up the car to take it to Parr to get the damned thing ripped out. I tried H&P and the very helpful lady told me that Jim had retired finally at the grand old age of 87 :-) - so now stuck with it and no spares.

If anyone knows how to bypass it, please PM me - so I least I can take it to an auto-electrician to get it replaced. Otherwise, it's going to be a flatbed job, which will cost a pretty penny!

seg

Gus

Ditto - PM me also OR based on number of folks interested and age of our cars there is significant need for this knowledge. Maybe some one could be kind enough to pub instructions here.

-nick

I haven't done this, but it should be as easy as bridging the alarm pins I/6 and I/4. Or bridge pin I/4 to any terminal 15 wire (ignition key position 2 & 3).

Pin I/6 gets a switched +12v from term15, which goes through the alarm's "code lock" switch, then out pin I/4 and on to the DME relay to turn it "on". The "code lock" switch breaks the circuit to the DME relay if the alarm is triggered. Not very complicated and I don't think we need to worry about this being public info- a thief would have to already be inside your car and spend a fair bit of time to access these wires.

Pin I/6 has an 0.5mm black wire and a thick 1.0mm black wire.
Pin I/4 is an 0.75mm black/brown wire.

The earlier '90 and '89 models have different alarms, but the idea is the same. Just check the wiring diagram for the pins/etc.

'91.5 (maybe all '91) and up models