Shifting out of 1st or 2nd decellerating
#1
Shifting out of 1st or 2nd decellerating
I don't quite know how to phrase this problem, but I just noticed it and was wondering if anyone had advice on a solution. The same problem was reported in this thread.
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=4&t=001336" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=4&t=001336</a>
When I am coming to a stop I notice it is ocassionally difficult to get the car out of gear (1st or 2nd). When this occurs the car moves forward even though the clutch is fully depressed. I have no problems upshifting or getting out of gear when accelerating. Usually when coming to a stop I leave the car in gear and brake then when I get close to a stop, I engage the clutch and pop it into neutral. However, lately I notice it sticks in 1st and 2nd, and if you leave the clutch depressed but release the brake it moves forward, RPM's don't change (car doesn't die.). If there is an easy solution (cheap) to this please let me know.
1991 C2 cabrio
Thanks.
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=4&t=001336" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=4&t=001336</a>
When I am coming to a stop I notice it is ocassionally difficult to get the car out of gear (1st or 2nd). When this occurs the car moves forward even though the clutch is fully depressed. I have no problems upshifting or getting out of gear when accelerating. Usually when coming to a stop I leave the car in gear and brake then when I get close to a stop, I engage the clutch and pop it into neutral. However, lately I notice it sticks in 1st and 2nd, and if you leave the clutch depressed but release the brake it moves forward, RPM's don't change (car doesn't die.). If there is an easy solution (cheap) to this please let me know.
1991 C2 cabrio
Thanks.
#2
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Dear Malmsey,
This means your clutch is still engaged. I would recommend you check your clutch pedal adjustment and have the system bled. The clutch actuation is hydraulic and the first place I would recommend you look is the slave cylinder circuit. I hope it is on the hydrualic side and not the mechanical actuation of the cylinder. There is not good or guaranteed place to start with these problems. I always recommend you start with the cheaper fixes and move towards the more expensive. Cluch pedal first and then a system bleed. If this fails then the slave cylinder needs checking out,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
This means your clutch is still engaged. I would recommend you check your clutch pedal adjustment and have the system bled. The clutch actuation is hydraulic and the first place I would recommend you look is the slave cylinder circuit. I hope it is on the hydrualic side and not the mechanical actuation of the cylinder. There is not good or guaranteed place to start with these problems. I always recommend you start with the cheaper fixes and move towards the more expensive. Cluch pedal first and then a system bleed. If this fails then the slave cylinder needs checking out,
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
#3
Malmsey:
How many miles are on your clutch? I would follow Adrian's advice first, but if the car has a lot of miles or use (or abuse if you race ) you may have a weak pressure plate or the disk may be worn too thin. In this case, when you push the clutch in, it doesn't completely stop the flywheel from rotating (the clutch disk drags on it instead of separting the disk from the flywheel completely, which might be why the car will creep forward even with the pedal pushed in).
If you're lucky, it will be one of the things Adrian pointed out
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
How many miles are on your clutch? I would follow Adrian's advice first, but if the car has a lot of miles or use (or abuse if you race ) you may have a weak pressure plate or the disk may be worn too thin. In this case, when you push the clutch in, it doesn't completely stop the flywheel from rotating (the clutch disk drags on it instead of separting the disk from the flywheel completely, which might be why the car will creep forward even with the pedal pushed in).
If you're lucky, it will be one of the things Adrian pointed out
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#4
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2001
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I have a similar problem with my car. Sometimes (infrequently) its hard to get the car out of gear (1st or 2nd only). Its also strange because it does it even when the engine is off (I park my car in first gear, handbrake off) and I can't take it out of first gear until the engine is on, and even then only if I blip the throttle.
My car has had the brakes bled twice in the past six months and one new master clutch cylinder fitted under my ownership and a master and slave cylinder and new clutch fitted by the previous owner.
The car is a 'P' series one and has 97,000 kms.
My car has had the brakes bled twice in the past six months and one new master clutch cylinder fitted under my ownership and a master and slave cylinder and new clutch fitted by the previous owner.
The car is a 'P' series one and has 97,000 kms.
#5
I would just like to make one point here - I always used to park my cars in gear - usually either 1st or reverse. After a while, every car I have done this in, developed a problem engaging/disengaging that gear.....so I have stopped doing it. Mind you, I don't leave my car standing all that long (usually less than a week) so I have never had a problem with leaving the handbrake on. I am not sure which way is better or whether the problems I developed with the gear shifts are actually signs that harm is being done....but I took a decision based on my experience.
Christer
Christer
#6
Burning Brakes
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Christer,
I leave my car with 1st gear in because I know that if you leave the handbrake on in cold weather it can lock up. This is particularly the case if the temperature is below zero.
I think I might start leaving the car both in neutral and without the handbrake when I park it in the garage from now on.
I leave my car with 1st gear in because I know that if you leave the handbrake on in cold weather it can lock up. This is particularly the case if the temperature is below zero.
I think I might start leaving the car both in neutral and without the handbrake when I park it in the garage from now on.
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#8
Racer
I am having the same issue. Shifting up the gears while accelerating is perfect but shifting out of gear while decelerating takes more effort. It kind of feels like the intended motion of the gear linkage is not aligned with the shift gate pattern if that makes sense. Let's say I'm in second; while shifting out of it, it feels like the shifter is pushing to the right (towards fourth gear). Because of that pressure, it makes it more difficult to come out of that gear. Any thoughts on the problem? Thanks!
#10
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I have some but not all of the described symptoms. I get no creep with clutch pedal to floor though I do find shifting out of gear when coming to a stop to be hard especially when cold. However, if I blip the throttle even slightly (less than one would do for downshifting rev matching) it pops right out of gear. Does this change or influence the diagnosis and/or recommended steps to check? I recall reading a reference to this though not sure of the upshot.
#11
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I believe I remember this being covered in another post recently (Search!!). My mechanic suggested that the condition most likely is related to cars being used lightly (mine is), and that rust builds up on the input shaft. He suggested cleaning up/polishing the shaft when the transmission comes out for a clutch replacement. In the meantime, he suggested sitting in the car and working the clutch pedal a LOT, and to do this often. That seems to have helped in my case, although I still get that condition occasionally. You might also check your engine mounts and transmission mounts, which -- if they're failing -- could cause the engine and/or transmission to move under deceleration/braking causing a binding somewhere.
#12
Racer
I just put in Wevo Blacks so I'm good there. What leads me to believe that it's not a rusty input shaft is that it the symptoms only happen while decelerating. I would imagine that the symptoms would always occur if rust was the issue. Correct me if I'm wrong but this doesn't seem to be a clutch pedal bushing/roll pin issue? I don't want to go tearing into my pedals for no reason.
#14
Racer
Getting into first can be notchy sometimes. Much more difficult to get into first with higher RPMs. The only issue with reverse is that it can take a decent tug of the shifter to the left (probably a good thing).