tbennett017

I removed my starter this Sunday.. and just as a comment to those who have done it.. props to you. That top starter nut is something else...I thought Fiats were bad...

I had to conquer all my fears and drop the engine as far as I dared to get some access... and use a strange combination of tools to get there, a cut-off 10MM allen slug with a wrench on it. I tried everything, including trying to reach around from the other side behind the clutch slave. It was on very tight.

I dropped every wrench on my forehead, found a few new epithets, and spent a few minutes re-thinking Porsche ownership...but I finally got it out after about 8 hours.

Thanks for the encouragement...

stevepaa

Yeah, that is something I found very frustrating.

well done.

springer3

I have not yet had the pleasure, but for sure a new starter will be on the short list of things to replace if there is ever a need to drop the engine.

I bet if you had to do it again, you could have it done in 2 hours. First time always seems to take four times as long...

hawk911

Did mine last week also, and was lucky enough to have a friend with long fingers. He took care of the back nut.

TR6

And to think... those pirates at the shop wanted $180 in labor to do that...

tbennett017

no kidding.. the Dread Pirate Roberts... $180 would be cheap.

hawk911

not my shop; $700 total to do the swap, including a new $300 starter.

Steven C.

When my Fiat racer needs a starter I let my mechanic do it. So if this one really is tougher, I will NEVER see the starter in my car or out of it

tbennett017

Fiat 124? I have the exact wrench combination you might need.. once you have that its easy (I have done a number of those...) Its a couple of 3/8 extensions with a universal in the middle.. and a swivel socket at the end... not impossible but worth a few beers afterwards... ;-)

$700 for labor and $300 for the part sounds more like a shop rate I was expecting. Unfortunately no one locally was able to rebuild the starter so I had to order one from Pelican at $195 -$40 for the core...

MorganB1

At least it's done now Tom. I bet you'd have done it in just 4 - 5 hours with more sleep in you. Other people's wedding celebrations will do that to you.(wink-wink, nudge-nudge...)

Thanks for taking a break from the job and joining me in the "Portland Chapter: Rennlist Karting Excursion" down at Pat's Acres!

Steven C.

Yep, that is the combination....BUT, even harder with an 1800 block in the Coupe.

TR6

Wait til you start working on that Alpha race car! That'll be fun!

Larry Herman

Interesting. When I pull my trans, it's very easy to remove the starter. The lift helps, but I think that you gain a lot of room by dropping the front of the trans down about 6". It takes me about an hour and a few beers to pull it, so just dropping the front crossmember and disconnecting the shifter linkage should only take about 15 or 20 minutes.

elbeee964

Larry-
Can we revisit your points in gaining starter access via a tranny drop?

I want to clarify what you said:

1. Cradle the tranny before removing her support bolts (cradle where? preferred points?)
2. Support bolts are the six holding that forward tranny bridge bracket?
3. (What will be their reinstallation torques?)
4. Disconnect the shifter linkage -- how? (This may be obvious if I were to try it, but I've never looked to see)
5. Are the inboard half-shaft flanges left attached to the transaxle?

Now lowering the disconnected tranny:

1. Does this pivoting about the two rear/engine support points hurt them?
   
2. Finally, can this all be accomplished using only a passenger-side lift of the car? (I don't own two hydraulic jacks -- and will never jack up the car via the engine case no matter what anyone says about it being trivial to engine stresses... (that whole notion gives me the heeby-jeebys!))

Thanks, for taking time for my stupid questions. I'm trying to figure a nicer starter change DIY than the one I recently endured.

-Lonnie

Larry Herman

I want to clarify what you said:

1. Cradle the tranny before removing her support bolts (cradle where? preferred points?) You can support it under the transmission crossmember. Pull the center 2 bolts out first and put your jack under the middle
2. Support bolts are the six holding that forward tranny bridge bracket? Yes
3. (What will be their reinstallation torques?) 34 ft/lbs
4. Disconnect the shifter linkage -- how? (This may be obvious if I were to try it, but I've never looked to see) Pull the boot back that is right in front of the trans mount and remove the 13mm bolt on the left side of the linkage
5. Are the inboard half-shaft flanges left attached to the transaxle? They can be if you can get enough drop. I am always removing the trans and so I always have them disconnected

Now lowering the disconnected tranny:

1. Does this pivoting about the two rear/engine support points hurt them? I have solid mounts and so I loosen the bolts about 3 or 4 turns first
   
2. Finally, can this all be accomplished using only a passenger-side lift of the car? (I don't own two hydraulic jacks -- and will never jack up the car via the engine case no matter what anyone says about it being trivial to engine stresses... (that whole notion gives me the heeby-jeebys!)) Unless you are the original owner, your car has been jacked up that way in the past. I think that you could do it from the side, but it will be a lot tougher.