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My rear fan bypass box!

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Old 04-13-2012, 04:39 AM
  #121  
Bertrand
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Just trying to understand the whole story:

Concerning the battery drain experienced by Twood:
'Some back ground - I have the heater bypass mod installed with the resistors in place but could not get the CCU to work other than on the blue (lowest setting)dot. Removing the relay and jumping the approriate contacts made everything work perfectly except that I had a battery drain and after 2 days would find I had a flat battery.'

If you do the jumper trick with the resistor replacing the blower or the rear blower connected, it will drain the battery (the battery will always feed the resistor - blower).

Question: With the jumper mod and blower/resistor disconnected, does it drain the battery (on a 89/90 model)?
Old 04-13-2012, 12:03 PM
  #122  
Gus
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The best trick is to install a relay that allows the connection when power is on - key in ignition - the relay completes the circuit while the car is running and then breaks the circuit once you shut the car off. This prevents the battery drain under any situation.
Old 04-13-2012, 03:33 PM
  #123  
crg53
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You do not need a relay, all you have to do is run a fused (7.5 amp) wire from the + side of the nearest coil to pin # 87 where the heater blower relay used to be, and you are done.

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Old 04-13-2012, 05:37 PM
  #124  
Gus
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Tried that on my car and as long as there was a direct connection I had battery drain, the relay was the only trick that stopped the battery drain. Have a 91 - don't know, but think a lot of this is car year specific. Glad that your solution works for you.
Old 04-13-2012, 05:46 PM
  #125  
anto1150
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Originally Posted by Gus
Tried that on my car and as long as there was a direct connection I had battery drain, the relay was the only trick that stopped the battery drain. Have a 91 - don't know, but think a lot of this is car year specific. Glad that your solution works for you.
The relay is used to power pin #87. If you have a key-switched positive that can power that pin, why would you use a relay?
I think your battery drain cound be caused by something different.

Last edited by anto1150; 04-14-2012 at 04:03 AM. Reason: caused instead of caudes
Old 04-13-2012, 08:03 PM
  #126  
crg53
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Originally Posted by Gus
Tried that on my car and as long as there was a direct connection I had battery drain, the relay was the only trick that stopped the battery drain. Have a 91 - don't know, but think a lot of this is car year specific. Glad that your solution works for you.
Mine is also a 91. The power to the coil is switched, no key no power no drain.

Old 04-13-2012, 10:53 PM
  #127  
Twood
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Originally Posted by Bertrand
Just trying to understand the whole story:

Concerning the battery drain experienced by Twood:
'Some back ground - I have the heater bypass mod installed with the resistors in place but could not get the CCU to work other than on the blue (lowest setting)dot. Removing the relay and jumping the approriate contacts made everything work perfectly except that I had a battery drain and after 2 days would find I had a flat battery.'

If you do the jumper trick with the resistor replacing the blower or the rear blower connected, it will drain the battery (the battery will always feed the resistor - blower).

Question: With the jumper mod and blower/resistor disconnected, does it drain the battery (on a 89/90 model)?
The different years of the 964 models are different in whether you need the relay or not. Follow the process of the relay jump and if there is no battery drain then don't worry about it.

Mine drained the battery and I needed the relay. My 964 is a '91 model build in October '90
Old 04-16-2012, 04:56 AM
  #128  
Bertrand
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I am trying to understand why there could be a battery drain on a 90 or a 91 if the blower is disconnected and has NOT been replaced by a resistor.
Unless there is a path from input G19 of the Control-Unit to ground I do not understand (see wiring diagram at K-29).
But even so, to drain a battery, that would be a massive current in that input...

Gus and Twood: Did you have the blower OR the resistor replacing the blower connected when you had that drain?

(I don't want to modify my car, I just want to understand what is happening....)

Cheers.
Old 04-16-2012, 05:18 AM
  #129  
Twood
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Originally Posted by rollingjack
Hi,
first remove the rear blower relay. Then install two jumpers in same place. Connect 30 to 87 and 30C to 87C, or 30 to 87C and 30C to 87. No difference. 30 and 30C are anyway connected.
No more. You can now remove temperature probe and original resistor too, if you want.
I did exactly as described above - everything worked beautifully except that after 1-2 days my battery was flat. A auto electrian friend of mine installed the relay and now after a couple of years I have no further problems. Don't ask me to explain how or why I just know without the relay we have "battery drain" - with the relay "no battery drain".

Sometimes I do no need to know why I exist but it good to believe I do exist.

Originally Posted by Bertrand
Just trying to understand the whole story:

Concerning the battery drain experienced by Twood:
'Some back ground - I have the heater bypass mod installed with the resistors in place but could not get the CCU to work other than on the blue (lowest setting)dot. Removing the relay and jumping the approriate contacts made everything work perfectly except that I had a battery drain and after 2 days would find I had a flat battery.'

If you do the jumper trick with the resistor replacing the blower or the rear blower connected, it will drain the battery (the battery will always feed the resistor - blower).

Question: With the jumper mod and blower/resistor disconnected, does it drain the battery (on a 89/90 model)?
Old 04-16-2012, 05:52 AM
  #130  
Bertrand
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Aaaargh....

Did you have the blower OR the resistor replacing the blower connected when you had that drain?

YES OR NO?

Thank you.
Old 09-26-2012, 01:46 AM
  #131  
cobias1
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has anyone kept thier original piping and done the jumper whilst disconnecting the blower and resistor and how did that turn out ? thinking of doing this but dont have time or money to get into new piping just yet. thanks in advance for any replies.
Old 09-26-2012, 01:54 AM
  #132  
Babalouie
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Yup. From what I recall, having the (no longer spinning) blower in place didn't really affect the cabin airflow that much.
Old 09-26-2012, 09:48 AM
  #133  
cobias1
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think im gonna try this out as I put a new/used relay in and it had heat and air right afterwards until i cranked the car again several hours later then absolutely nothing.
Old 09-26-2012, 02:28 PM
  #134  
cobias1
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ok spent a few hours on it today...did the set up as in post 123 pic i think as it was the easiest to try and seemed the safest for my experience level. finally, no go on my end of it. good thing fall is here and its not so cold that i need heat and i can still put the top down if its warm enough out. this one may go to a repair shop this time. so far ive been 2/3 of projects on average. thanks for the posts on this and at least i can say that i gave it a shot before shop time.
Old 09-26-2012, 04:11 PM
  #135  
ThomasC2
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What do you mean with "no go". Doesn't the heat or fans work as they should? If you tried to run the fans or heat before you did this the error codes in the CCU has kicked in and you need a diagnostic tool to reset it. Otherwise it wont work even if your connections are done in the same way as in post 123. Try to reset the CCU before you do anything else.

Best

Thomas


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