budge96

Hello guys, quite a few months back a DC ,MD rennlist member was selling
parts from a blue (I think) RSA that had caught a curb and wrecked at the track
he had a decent roof for sale ,thought i could't use it but if still available i'd be
interested in speaking with him,please let me know if someone knows who I'm
speaking of or remembers the car,thanks Bert ecrobinson1726@msn.com

ilko

This one?

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...pril-12th.html

budge96

I'm not certain but don't believe thats it,this one had been parted extensively and was non/sun roof..

springer3

The roof stamping from all 911s, 1966 to 1994 is the same part. Sunroofs were rare in the early 911, and there are heaps of them in the wrecking yards.

aj986s

The wrecked RSA he had was Red. His subsequent replacement car, which he still has, is Blue. I'm not certain, but I think the Red car is long gone; IIRC a shop bought the totalled shell, and was going to try and rebuild it as a caged race car.

budge96

uhhhm,mm not quite, from what I've been told by my body guy the 89 and
later C2 and subsequent 993's don't have the same rear vents..
What I'm looking for is a late non/sunroof roof skin...thanks Bert

Rennen

Hi, that was my car, it had a sunroof, and is long gone. It was restored for street use and is out there somewhere hopefuly getting the wheels driven off it.

budge96

OK I recall the red RSA in peices if thats what you're referring to...this one was blue...

AOW162435

I believe AtSpeed was parting out a black RS last year.


Andreas

springer3

Is your body guy planning to weld in the entire roof including the rear vents? I don't think that is the right way to go.

With a panel flanger, rivet dimpler, and structural epoxy, you can fill a sheet metal opening with no welding required. The repair is as strong as a solid roof, and slightly stiffer due to the lap joint. Best of all, there will be no heat distortion, and no annealing (softening) of the steel. The flanger puts a step around the opening exactly the right height for the new panel to fit flush with the new panel. Match-drill four rivet holes and rivet the four corners. Then match-drill rivet holes approximately 1/2 inch apart all the way around the opening. Drill out the temporary rivets, and then dimple both the fill panel and the existing roof using the holes as a guide. The dimples inter-lock the panel, and let the rivets go slightly below the skin surface. Very little filler is needed to be cosmetically perfect.

Glue holds air planes together these days. Use the right stuff, and it is seriously a better repair than welding. Even if you don't trust glue, the steel rivets and the inter-locking dimples are strong enough to exceed the strength and stiffness of the original sunroof opening.

jazzbass

You might have been thinking about mine (bought post-wreck for the engine). It was black, not blue and I still have the non-sunroof roof clip for sale. PM me if interested.