Clutch fork and flywheel options
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Clutch fork and flywheel options
Hey guys. I am about to drop my motor for the first time as my clutch has slipped a couple of times. I am about to order my Sachs clutch kit and was wondering if it is nessasary to replace the clutch fork like pelican claims people should do. Also, how can I tell if my dual mass flywheel is still ok? Is it possible to turn them, or just scuff them up a bit?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
RL Technical Advisor
Greg,
JMHO,
I always,....always replace the D-M flywheel at every clutch job since I cannot afford a come-back and their effective lifespan is limited, based on experience. This is based on a 80K-100K mile clutch life.
Clutch forks are replaced, based on inspection. They are more durable than the D-M flywheel if they were installed and maintained properly.
JMHO,
I always,....always replace the D-M flywheel at every clutch job since I cannot afford a come-back and their effective lifespan is limited, based on experience. This is based on a 80K-100K mile clutch life.
Clutch forks are replaced, based on inspection. They are more durable than the D-M flywheel if they were installed and maintained properly.
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice Steve. Looks like this job will cost me another $850. I could always pay a few more bucks and get Lightweight flywheel kit. I am just nervous about idle issues and driveabilty as it is a strickly street cabriolet.
#5
RL Technical Advisor
Good software really helps the stalling issues (along with some others), however they are not 100% perfect all the time, especially when the A/C is on.
Do the job right and you'll only do it once. Replace the clutch slave cylinder at the same time, too.
#6
I too really like the LWF - I went with the full RS setup including pressure plate etc... and can't imagine it being better for a performance street machine. The way the revs build and fall transforms the car IMHO.
That said, Steve's advice is good (as always) and one other thing to consider is that your intake and ignition system need to be in excellent operating condition for the stalling countermeasures to work effectively.
I ended up doing some ignition and intake maintenance to bring the car up to peak condition so that it never stalls now - ever. If possible, grab a ride with someone in your area who has the LWF setup - that should help with the decision too.
Good luck!
That said, Steve's advice is good (as always) and one other thing to consider is that your intake and ignition system need to be in excellent operating condition for the stalling countermeasures to work effectively.
I ended up doing some ignition and intake maintenance to bring the car up to peak condition so that it never stalls now - ever. If possible, grab a ride with someone in your area who has the LWF setup - that should help with the decision too.
Good luck!
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#8
RL Technical Advisor
#9
Rennlist Member
#10
Steve I am sending you a email. How soon is this going to be available? I am pulling the trigger soon on a LWF. Will it be mid weight like the old Andial one?
#12
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Ohhhh. That sounds like the best of best worlds. How much? How long is the wait going to be? No chip needed? What disk would I use? Same Sachs clutch kit for DMF, bearings etc?
I was hoping to do the clutch before April when the weather breaks here. (salt gone)
I was hoping to do the clutch before April when the weather breaks here. (salt gone)
#13
RL Technical Advisor
Gents,
I'm working on this project as we speak. This will be very similar to the Andial one as they do not make them anymore and are closing their business by the end of March.
I'll have an ETA within the next 36 hours for delivery.
I'm working on this project as we speak. This will be very similar to the Andial one as they do not make them anymore and are closing their business by the end of March.
I'll have an ETA within the next 36 hours for delivery.