how bad is this PPI?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
how bad is this PPI?
A local shop just finished a PPI. Here are some pictures and what they sent me.
1992, 140k miles. newer clutch, no engine work done yet. Have all the records. car autocrossed couple times a year for the last 10 years. daily driven. otherwise car is in great shape. shiny paint and excellent interior.
shop owner didn't want to do compression/leak down test. because of liability concern. He thought the those tests are invasive. things can go wrong. He also thought it wasn't necessary .
He can still do it. but wants me and the seller to understand things can go wrong. before anymore testing, here's the findings.
1. NEEDS WIPER BLADES.
2. NEEDS BRAKE AND CLUTCH FLUID CHANGE. 3% WATER CONTENT IN FLUID.
3. LF. REAR RIM IS BENT.
4. BODY RUSTED THROUGH BENEATH BATTERY.
5. MISSING LOWER ENGINE COVER.
6. REAR FENDER BRACKETS ARE RUSTED.
7. RT. INNER CV BOOT IS LEAKING GREASE. ALL BOOTS ARE WIRED TIED ON AND HAVE NO CLAMPS.
SHOULD BE REPLACED, JOINTS CLEANED AND REPACKED WITH GREASE.
8. HAS ENGINE OIL LEAKS.
9. HYDROCARBONS AFTER CAT. CONVT. AT 60-80PPM. INDICATES ENGINE IS RUNNING EFFICIENTLY.
10. RT. BRAKE LIGHT IS OUT.
11. RUST THROUGH BATTERY TRAY
12. SMALL RUST ON FENDER WHERE IT MEETS THE HOOD.
13, SMALL RUST BUBBLE ON THE LOWEST RIGHT OF REAR WINDOW LOWER STRIP.
Shop estimated $1300 to fix above issues except the engine oil leak and rust. Looks like it will be much more expensive if the cost of engine leak and rust repair are factored in.
I will get back to the seller tonight.
1992, 140k miles. newer clutch, no engine work done yet. Have all the records. car autocrossed couple times a year for the last 10 years. daily driven. otherwise car is in great shape. shiny paint and excellent interior.
shop owner didn't want to do compression/leak down test. because of liability concern. He thought the those tests are invasive. things can go wrong. He also thought it wasn't necessary .
He can still do it. but wants me and the seller to understand things can go wrong. before anymore testing, here's the findings.
1. NEEDS WIPER BLADES.
2. NEEDS BRAKE AND CLUTCH FLUID CHANGE. 3% WATER CONTENT IN FLUID.
3. LF. REAR RIM IS BENT.
4. BODY RUSTED THROUGH BENEATH BATTERY.
5. MISSING LOWER ENGINE COVER.
6. REAR FENDER BRACKETS ARE RUSTED.
7. RT. INNER CV BOOT IS LEAKING GREASE. ALL BOOTS ARE WIRED TIED ON AND HAVE NO CLAMPS.
SHOULD BE REPLACED, JOINTS CLEANED AND REPACKED WITH GREASE.
8. HAS ENGINE OIL LEAKS.
9. HYDROCARBONS AFTER CAT. CONVT. AT 60-80PPM. INDICATES ENGINE IS RUNNING EFFICIENTLY.
10. RT. BRAKE LIGHT IS OUT.
11. RUST THROUGH BATTERY TRAY
12. SMALL RUST ON FENDER WHERE IT MEETS THE HOOD.
13, SMALL RUST BUBBLE ON THE LOWEST RIGHT OF REAR WINDOW LOWER STRIP.
Shop estimated $1300 to fix above issues except the engine oil leak and rust. Looks like it will be much more expensive if the cost of engine leak and rust repair are factored in.
I will get back to the seller tonight.
#3
Rennlist Member
What's the asking price? Do you have Adrian Streather's book? No compression or leakdown is concerning. Can you do your own mechanical work?
#4
Three Wheelin'
The shop that carried out the PPI, are they a Porsche specialist?
I've had 3 PPI's carried out in the last 2 months, the first included a comp test. The other 2 tests excluded the PPI because of the extra expense, not because something could go wrong.
My advice to anyone is, use a specialist that knows the make well, if the initial PPI exc the the comp test is good, and you are more or less sold on the car, but they recommend a comp test then have it done for your own piece of mind.
The first 2 x cars I had PPI's carried out on, I had never seen (both cars in the states, I was in Europe). For the 1st car from the photos and written / verbal description from the dealer, it seemed the perfect car, plus it was about $10k more than many other 964's, I'd seen advertised. As it turned out descriptions were along way from the truth, but I had asked for the comp test to be done. cost $450 wasted.
2nd turned out the same, but on this occasion I waited for the initial report and therefore it only cost $150.00. No need for a comp test.
3rd car i found in the UK, PPI'd by a specialist I know very well and trust 100%. Std PPI carried out, they felt the engine was strong even though oil leaks etch required, but felt a Comp test was un-necessary.
By the looks of the PPI you've had done nothing out of the ordinary is required, though others here may express a different opinion.
The bumper brackets are well know for rusting and you will find this mentioned many times if you search for it.
Can you tell us more about the car.
Model
Tip or manual
Year
C2 or C4
Seller is private or a dealer
And finally price
All these might help decide if its worth buying.
Being that he car will be 20 odd years old, always expect and budget for work to be done unless its undergone a compete restoration, is very low miles and been maintained at a no expense spared basis, this will be normal.
I've had 3 PPI's carried out in the last 2 months, the first included a comp test. The other 2 tests excluded the PPI because of the extra expense, not because something could go wrong.
My advice to anyone is, use a specialist that knows the make well, if the initial PPI exc the the comp test is good, and you are more or less sold on the car, but they recommend a comp test then have it done for your own piece of mind.
The first 2 x cars I had PPI's carried out on, I had never seen (both cars in the states, I was in Europe). For the 1st car from the photos and written / verbal description from the dealer, it seemed the perfect car, plus it was about $10k more than many other 964's, I'd seen advertised. As it turned out descriptions were along way from the truth, but I had asked for the comp test to be done. cost $450 wasted.
2nd turned out the same, but on this occasion I waited for the initial report and therefore it only cost $150.00. No need for a comp test.
3rd car i found in the UK, PPI'd by a specialist I know very well and trust 100%. Std PPI carried out, they felt the engine was strong even though oil leaks etch required, but felt a Comp test was un-necessary.
By the looks of the PPI you've had done nothing out of the ordinary is required, though others here may express a different opinion.
The bumper brackets are well know for rusting and you will find this mentioned many times if you search for it.
Can you tell us more about the car.
Model
Tip or manual
Year
C2 or C4
Seller is private or a dealer
And finally price
All these might help decide if its worth buying.
Being that he car will be 20 odd years old, always expect and budget for work to be done unless its undergone a compete restoration, is very low miles and been maintained at a no expense spared basis, this will be normal.
#6
Burning Brakes
Where are you located?
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#8
Rennlist Member
BigMike,
This engine needs one of our reseal jobs. I wonder what the shop is quoting to fix for $1300 in terms of the oil leaks.
This engine needs one of our reseal jobs. I wonder what the shop is quoting to fix for $1300 in terms of the oil leaks.
#10
Rennlist Member
BigMikeATL has a thread where he shows how to address the typical leak points on these cars without removing the engine. You do remove the rear bumper. What concerns me is the rust.
#11
RL Technical Advisor
No leakdown test??
JMHO, but I'd walk away unless the price was low enough to accommodate an engine rebuild. You'd never believe what I've seen and an owner refusal warrants a "pass" in my book.
JMHO, but I'd walk away unless the price was low enough to accommodate an engine rebuild. You'd never believe what I've seen and an owner refusal warrants a "pass" in my book.
#12
My 2cents - you want the compression and leak down done. Read this article: http://www.autos.ca/auto-brands/feat...1-porsche-911/ all the way to the end - "Update: A few months later, $10,000 in engine work required"
#13
Three Wheelin'
The idea of paying more for lower mileage = less problems does not always equate.
I know you guys in the states often turn up cars with under 100k miles priced at the $15 a $20k mark, but I spent months searching and only found suitable cars priced at $27 - $29 k and they still needed at least $12 spending on them to make them clean oil leak free cars.
If you are happy with the way this looks and drives and are prepared to spend money on it, get the comp and leak down test done and agree a deal with the seller, $18k doesn't buy much these days.
There are a few cars for sale in the states which would probably be very clean cars with very little or no outlay required after you've bought them, but they are priced between $35 & $40k.
I know you guys in the states often turn up cars with under 100k miles priced at the $15 a $20k mark, but I spent months searching and only found suitable cars priced at $27 - $29 k and they still needed at least $12 spending on them to make them clean oil leak free cars.
If you are happy with the way this looks and drives and are prepared to spend money on it, get the comp and leak down test done and agree a deal with the seller, $18k doesn't buy much these days.
There are a few cars for sale in the states which would probably be very clean cars with very little or no outlay required after you've bought them, but they are priced between $35 & $40k.
#14
Three Wheelin'
http://www.autos.ca/auto-brands/feat...1-porsche-911/
That's an interesting article and pretty much backs up what I've said!
In my case, I didn't get a comp test done as a rebuild / upgrade is planned anyway, so that's all in the budget!
That's an interesting article and pretty much backs up what I've said!
In my case, I didn't get a comp test done as a rebuild / upgrade is planned anyway, so that's all in the budget!
#15
Nordschleife Master
Regarding the rust on the bottom of the trunk. To fix this properly you need the whole of the trunk floor replacing. I'm having this done on mine at the moment. The approximate cost is $3,000.