CRG

finally got around to splitting the case. pretty impressive that after 214k miles the crank, rods, and bearings in general looked pretty good...except the bearings for the IM shaft they look pretty rough. Still have some cleaning to do on the case, external, as I have a hell of a lot of built up oil, grime.

now comes decision time..stay 3.6 or bump it up to a 3.8 and OEM cams or SS, along with a SW chip..already have a G pipe and cat bypass

I guess if I go 3.8 with SS cams IF I ever want to go down the Motec road I'll be set up for it, I think I'd just need larger injectors

still need to decide if I want to go with Bilstein HD's and H&R springs or bite the bullet and go with PSS-10's..leaning towards the PSS-10's as everything comes in one box

Michael D'Silva

great thread.
I was thinking about the Bilstein and H&R route too... the coilovers aren't cheap... but the adustability sounds worthwhile.

sml

cool thread.

can't wait to see what happens on start-up!

when you say "in general looked pretty good" ... are you actually measuring parts, or just a subjective assessment from an untrained eye?

CRG

finally got around to doing some work over the holidays
decided to stay stock- spoke to a number of people about upgrading to 3.8, decided it's just not worth it for me, ..best advise came from jerry woods "the 3.6 is a good engine, if you want a race car buy a race car". same thing with the oem cams- for daily driving the oem cams are good, if you modify the cams you will sacrifice something somewhere else (low/mid/top end) and make additional adjustments elsewhere, lots of good information on cams in general on the google. another thing that was beat into my melon was the simple fact that in order to have any appreciable change in hp the air/fuel mixture must be increased, cant get around that. although i have no budget for the rebuild it make zero sense to me to spend thousands of bucks for a min increase in hp that will be further reduced up at the flywheel..but thats just my opinion and my way forward, i'm damn sure other will disagree...maybe even violently

new mahle 3.6 p/c's, had elgin clean up my cams and rockers, all new bearings to include #8, all viton seals, arp case/head bolts, heads rebuilt by anchor atlantic, etc. also bought pss 10's, rear bumper and rear lights...so you dont have to ask, it's a bit above 17k at this point, yep 17k in parts, pieces, machine work, tools, etc...hell i probably spent 500 bucks in brake cleaner alone!

swesna

nice work.

Q&A

Nice job well done !!!

Have you done a leak down test prior to deciding to change cylinders and if so what were the values or … have measured them afterwards ?
Was there any damage to cylinder housing ?

I'm just curious to why you changed them . It's very common to repack a 964 engine of that age so curious on your approach

C4inLA

Subscribed. I thought DIY was suppose to save us money Please take a thousand more pics jus kidding... Took a tuneup class at Jerry Woods a decade ago.... I'm thinking a great idea for new classes, 1st class - 964 engine removal and complete tear down. Once all parts machined and sourced give 2nd class - full assembly from bottom up. Sign me up Are you doing all assembly?

CRG

Q&A- the reason for new pistons and cylinders wasnt due to age, i wanted new due to high mileage, 214k. could i have used the old one? maybe. my goal on this rebuild is to bring it back to off the showroom floor factory spec, which is when it ran it's best, and build for another 200k...meaning i dont want to do this again anytime soon as i like to drive it much more than i like to turn a wrench on it

C4inLA- 964 class would have been great, I'm using the usual suspects in the form of books, manuals and also have the P-fix-it 964 rebuild video, which is great for me. The money spent, 2600 of that is a rear bumper and rear lights and 2400 for the pss10's. also lot's of small $ spent on non-rebuild parts/pieces e.g. rebuilt dizzy (new bearings) new brake rotors, ss lines, R&R half shafts, new tools, etc


btw- this is my first engine rebuild, of any kind of engine..never even rebuilt a lawn mower before...no kidding

robt964

>btw- this is my first engine rebuild, of any kind of engine..never even rebuilt a lawn mower before...no kidding

I applaud your spirit It's threads like these that makes the forum. *Everybody* learns something from them.

C4inLA

+1 what Robt964 said.. Nice list of goodies. Your thread and Ricardo's should be fun to follow...

Sent PM regarding review of DVD, don't want to derail your thread.

Cheers!

CRG

first a bit of a shout out for Anchor Atlantic in NJ, Bob Hirst has been doing heads for decades and does a fantastic job... he even engraved my name in my heads, too cool...the before and after

CRG

new mahle p/c's, viton and 23mm stomski circlip injector..it's worth every penny (i think, but i've never done this before so i may be wrong)

anywho's- I'm getting danger close to having to time the cams, yikes! ..lucky for me I'm headed out of town for a bit so I wont have to deal with the cam timing cold sweats for a few weeks

whats wrong with that last photo? yep, once again it's do over time, a "rebuild mulligan" if you will...i fear I'll be shooting 200 on the back 9 of this build

CRG

trying to time the cams and keep having a problem- when i get the left side to 1.26 and pull the cam sprocket pin it jumps down to .90 or so?

i've tried it with the spring adjusters installed, without them and a clamp to increase the tension, and no added tension (spring/clamp), it doesn't seem to matter the amount of tension it keeps moving.

What am I doing wrong or more importantly what do i need to do to keep it at 1.26?

the process seems pretty straightforward...on paper

thanks

CRG

finally got around to timing the cams, bought 2 of the stomski SR098 cam timing fixtures, the SR097 valve lash adjuster and i also used his circlip injector for the piston wrist pins. i used 2 SR098's so i could see both sides as i rotated the crank, expensive but gave me a warm fuzzy that my timing on both sides was good to go. the valve lash adjuster, in my opinion, is way easier to use than the z-block. i also replaced the spring plates with ERP bushings, another pricey but easy replacement.
still have lots to do, from start to finish the entire rebuild will be almost a year as i travel quite a bit and only have so much time to work on the car. but when it's all said and done i'll have a new engine, front/rear suspension (pss10's, etc) and a rebuild rack because it leaks a bit. when i wrap it up i'll list the parts/pieces i've replaced, the list is long and expensive but considering i've owned the car for 20yrs and 214k miles and dont plan on selling it it's worth it to me.

brw-i have no affiliation with stomski but his tools are well worth the price and peace of mind..and he's a great guy to deal with

robt964

Coming together nicely How did you resolve the issue of the timing slipping? Did you work out what was causing it to move?