Belt replacemet question
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
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A single belt conversion is mainly for racing, not a DD. The single belt less RPM's at idle and doesn't provide sufficient voltage when idling.
Look for a thread around 6 weeks ago from Gouhary.
Look for a thread around 6 weeks ago from Gouhary.
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the input. If I simply change the belts, is there anything else I should do at the same time? Doesn't seem like it, but is any upgrade available?
I put an old belt on and it was slightly damaged. It stated to fail within 30 seconds. Seems abnormal, but I'll order a few belts until I get a feel for this type of diy.
I put an old belt on and it was slightly damaged. It stated to fail within 30 seconds. Seems abnormal, but I'll order a few belts until I get a feel for this type of diy.
#18
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If the belt is too tight, it will go quickly, also the shaft can deflect enough that the fan hits the outer housing. Been there, done that.
#19
Race Car
Once you have the kriket, you will only need the extra belts in the trunk in the event of a failure, and failure on new belts won't be likely.
Word to the wise, your belt tension sensor will fail. They are horrible. So also keep in the car some zip ties and maybe some silicone rubber bands (I got a set of silicone hair ties from my daughter, buy them at target). This way you can tie it out of the way when it breaks. After the wheel falls off when the bearing fails, the shaft can and will tear a brand new belt to bits...
As to single belt conversion. I like the idea, but in reality, it doesn't allow the alternator to spin fast enough to create enough amperage for good spark below 3000 rpm. So if you are driving the **** out of your call all the time, have at it. But I find bad low rpm throttle response to be a pain in the butt. Also, likely not getting a good hot spark and efficient burn in the cylinders and therefore will create lots of carbon buildup...in my opinion.
Word to the wise, your belt tension sensor will fail. They are horrible. So also keep in the car some zip ties and maybe some silicone rubber bands (I got a set of silicone hair ties from my daughter, buy them at target). This way you can tie it out of the way when it breaks. After the wheel falls off when the bearing fails, the shaft can and will tear a brand new belt to bits...
As to single belt conversion. I like the idea, but in reality, it doesn't allow the alternator to spin fast enough to create enough amperage for good spark below 3000 rpm. So if you are driving the **** out of your call all the time, have at it. But I find bad low rpm throttle response to be a pain in the butt. Also, likely not getting a good hot spark and efficient burn in the cylinders and therefore will create lots of carbon buildup...in my opinion.
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the response.
I'll just stay stock. Sounds like there are downsides to the single pulley set up that aren't worth the trade off.
Hope to get this seen to soon. Thanks!
I'll just stay stock. Sounds like there are downsides to the single pulley set up that aren't worth the trade off.
Hope to get this seen to soon. Thanks!
#21
Without a/c or radio, you'll be fine w/ a single belt RS pulley. Aside from reduced alternator speed, the practical benefit is simplified belt changes (only need a 10mm socket) & removal of the belt minder sensor..
If you drive the car at least a couple times a month or use a battery tender for extended storage, can also use a smaller battery to save weight.
let me know if you want to borrow tools / krikit.
If you drive the car at least a couple times a month or use a battery tender for extended storage, can also use a smaller battery to save weight.
let me know if you want to borrow tools / krikit.
#22
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When I first changed my belts 10 years ago, i was getting smoke from the belts, as you described. Turns out, I had reinstalled the cone-shaped washer backwards. It made just enough difference to offset the belts thereby causing the smoke. The diagram of this in Adrian Streather's book is wrong (the orientation of the cone-shaped washer); I alerted him to that. Dunno if the diagram was changed in subsequent editions.
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
When I first changed my belts 10 years ago, i was getting smoke from the belts, as you described. Turns out, I had reinstalled the cone-shaped washer backwards. It made just enough difference to offset the belts thereby causing the smoke. The diagram of this in Adrian Streather's book is wrong (the orientation of the cone-shaped washer); I alerted him to that. Dunno if the diagram was changed in subsequent editions.
I'm pretty sure I inverted the cone washer just as you said. Would this cause both belts to rotate in tandem, thus frying the alt belt?
Also- thanks ToSi. Pm'd a response.
#24
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The cone shaped washer (thinner side) fits against the inner bearing of the fan hub, thus tightening it against the alt. shaft. By doing it that way, the fan turns via the inner pulley, which is connected to the crank and is therefore independent of the alternator.
If the washer is put on backwards, it is too wide and locks the fan hub to the alt shaft! Then both the inner and outer pulleys are turning at the same speed. You end up with the inner belt turning at one speed (RPM) while the inner pulley is turning at a different speed.....therefore SMOKE!
If the washer is put on backwards, it is too wide and locks the fan hub to the alt shaft! Then both the inner and outer pulleys are turning at the same speed. You end up with the inner belt turning at one speed (RPM) while the inner pulley is turning at a different speed.....therefore SMOKE!
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The cone shaped washer (thinner side) fits against the inner bearing of the fan hub, thus tightening it against the alt. shaft. By doing it that way, the fan turns via the inner pulley, which is connected to the crank and is therefore independent of the alternator. If the washer is put on backwards, it is too wide and locks the fan hub to the alt shaft! Then both the inner and outer pulleys are turning at the same speed. You end up with the inner belt turning at one speed (RPM) while the inner pulley is turning at a different speed.....therefore SMOKE!
Love the knowledge of this forum. Incredible depth of experience here. Appreciate the help!
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So, before I got the wisdom regarding the inverted cone washer, I wimped out and took the car my friends at Automotive Techniques. Jeff, the owner, saw right away that the alt shaft was turning in tandem with the fan. The reason the belts were off in the first place was due to a shop rag being sucked into the belts, so Jeff also advised an inspection of the cylinder heads aft the alternator. I'll see if I can snap an after pic with the washer installed correctly.
Planning to take the car in a nice 500 mile trip tonight/ tomorrow so it'll be good to have it all straightened out.
Thx/
Planning to take the car in a nice 500 mile trip tonight/ tomorrow so it'll be good to have it all straightened out.
Thx/
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
An update: just posting for the benefit on any fellow rennlisters that may have had the same dumb issue! So, had a microfiber towel get chewed up by my cooling fan. My Indy (automotive techniques/ novi) pulled the alternator and cleaned up some debris, not much if anything was there, but, my alternator shaft was slightly bent. So, need to put a new alternator in. A great way to spend $800 for a stupid mistake of leaving a microfiber towel in the engine bay. Yeah! Anyone else have this happen?