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Great info everyone. Was wondering for these front oil cooler lines, can you replace the hard line portion with the same soft lines that have been discussed? Elephant racing lines, Aeroquip lines, etc? Or if the lines seem to be leaking at both the cooler end and the oil thermostat end, it's better to just replace with OEM or Cohline? Does anyone have any experience with Cohline? Much cheaper (about 1/2 price) compared to OEM.
For anyone in the UK this is the place to go... genuine Cohline fittings and crimps the same as the originals. Very reasonable I cut off the old hoses from the hard lines and purchased new hose from the bay, took it along and they made them up with the old fittings and new crimps.
I am just about to rebuild my hoses and just wondered what would the part number be for the fittings for the end of the hoses to the oil cooler?
The hose O.D is 7/8 inch so you will need a -10 AN size hose.
I buy hose from Bat Inc, then get the original fittings crimped to the hose and factory line by a hydraulic shop (any hydraulic shop will do this for a nominal amount). The nylon covered lightweight fuel specific hose Bat sells is nearly identical in appearance to what the factory used.
The advantage to re-using factory hard lines and fittings, besides ascetics, is functionality (preserving the brass lines that reduce oil temps) and cost.
The hose O.D is 7/8 inch so you will need a -10 AN size hose.
I buy hose from Bat Inc, then get the original fittings crimped to the hose and factory line by a hydraulic shop (any hydraulic shop will do this for a nominal amount). The nylon covered lightweight fuel specific hose Bat sells is nearly identical in appearance to what the factory used.
The advantage to re-using factory hard lines and fittings, besides ascetics, is functionality (preserving the brass lines that reduce oil temps) and cost.
Hey,
Cheers for this and I can pass this on to the company re building the hoses.
One of the original nuts at the end seems to be stuck to the center part of the insert so I am hoping there can revoker that.
I seem mentioned M30 straight in various sites for that part, but not sure if there is something more specific in the details, like the thread.
Cheers for this and I can pass this on to the company re building the hoses.
One of the original nuts at the end seems to be stuck to the center part of the insert so I am hoping there can revoker that.
I seem mentioned M30 straight in various sites for that part, but not sure if there is something more specific in the details, like the thread.
Once again thanks for replying.
Alex
It's been a long time since I did my hoses but M30 sounds correct.
Back then Bat sold the crimp fittings and ferrules but it appears that they no longer do. That's why I recommend re-using your original fittings (if not too rusty) and new ferrules supplied by the hydraulic shop.
It's been a long time since I did my hoses but M30 sounds correct.
Back then Bat sold the crimp fittings and ferrules but it appears that they no longer do. That's why I recommend re-using your original fittings (if not too rusty) and new ferrules supplied by the hydraulic shop.
Hey,
Cheers for your reply.
Fingers crossed I will find out on Monday if the fittings are any good..
If they are then its very cheap to do
Next job (I wish I had not started) is the replacing of the O-Ring behind the round plate on the Thermostat.
Plat is stuck and I have heated that area up that I will have to replace the damn thing now.. Thats the job for this weekend as I would rather not destroy it..
Next job (I wish I had not started) is the replacing of the O-Ring behind the round plate on the Thermostat.
Plat is stuck and I have heated that area up that I will have to replace the damn thing now.
Don't heat it.
After you remove the c-clip, drill a hole in the center of the cover. Tap it, thread a bolt in the hole in it and grab the bolt with a pair of vice grips. Bang the vice grips with a hammer and the cover will pop out. There will be a fair amount of corrosion in the bore that you can remove with a Scotchbrite pad.
You will need a new cover but thy are cheap.
Last edited by Metal Guru; 02-18-2023 at 07:27 PM.
So I manged to remove the cap with 2 holes around 3 or 4mm deep and a alli bar with the 2 bolts..
Jesus that was stuck on there very tight, but after a few twists ot poped of with parts flying around
SO I save myself 35 eur and reuse the old cap and making it easier for the next guy to remove it
10-23-2019, 01:21 AM
