Help, she's not turning over.
#1
Help, she's not turning over.
After replacing all the valve cover/chain cover gaskets, and the distributor shaft o ring, my 964 is not turning. It was running before this. It tried to crank, but was not tuning all the way. I don't think I missed anything when I put everything back together. Any suggestions?
Last edited by vsouvann; 11-20-2015 at 12:36 AM.
#4
It tried to turn. I could hear the sound of the engine tries to crank, but it couldn't turn a full rotation. I know the started is engaged. My main suspect is the rotor alignment. It was kind of tight when pushed it in. I will pull it out and reset check the TDC again.
#6
I know I put too much oil in the car and over filled the tank before I did work. It might have cause it to hydro lock. Is so, how do I check it? And how do I fix it? This is new to me. It is my first time doing this. Thanks for your help thus far.
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#8
I dumped the oil out when I did the valve gaskets. I only have about 8 quarts in it right now. I will add more when I run the car, but unfortunately it is Not running yet. I will check the distributor first. I m thinking about turning the key to start will the distributor is off just to see if the engine rotates or not. Will this harm the engine?
By the way, any trick to turn the crank pulley without reaching down between the carrier? There's not enough room down there.
By the way, any trick to turn the crank pulley without reaching down between the carrier? There's not enough room down there.
#9
IHI KING!
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Yes, you can use the alternator pulley bolt to turn the engine. Be sure the transmission is in neutral, then put a 24mm wrench on the pulley and squeeze the belts with your hand, then engine crank will turn.
But before you do that, how will you align your distributor? Now that the crank has moved, do you know where cylinder 1 is?
But before you do that, how will you align your distributor? Now that the crank has moved, do you know where cylinder 1 is?
#10
I did not remove the pulley Z1 TDC should be in its rightful place. At this point, I just want to make sure the engine will turn. I remember the engine was turn while I was tightening the belt.
Question:
Should crank it by starting up the engine without the distributor? Will it damage anything?
Or should I just turn it by hand for a couple of rotations?
Question:
Should crank it by starting up the engine without the distributor? Will it damage anything?
Or should I just turn it by hand for a couple of rotations?
#11
Nordschleife Master
You're going to lose TDC by doing that. Remember, 4 stroke motor, so the engine is at Z1 twice and only one is TDC.
Did you turn the motor when you had the distributor out previously?
Did you turn the motor when you had the distributor out previously?
#14
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Because the car was running before you fiddled with the distributor, I would guess that you did something wrong (no offense). If you don't have one already, Adrian Streather has written a fairly comprehensive book on 964s available on Amazon. Worth every dollar.
The engine could be hydrolocked because it could have way too much oil in it. If the engine is hydrolocked, you could bend a rod merely by turning the engine over. Hydrolocked means the engine cylinders are full of oil. You might try removing the (bottom?) spark plugs to check.
When I change the oil in my 964, i never put in more than 5-6 quarts initially (with engine cold). Then start the car to warm the engine (this could take a while at current temps) and get the temp gauge to above the third mark on the gauge (where the oil thermostat opens and the oil in the tank then goes to the oil cooler up front and the gauge needle then drops). Then, add oil slowly a quart at a time until the correct level is measured on the dipstick. Then, the oil LEVEL needle moves to the 3 o'clock position.)
Do a search on this forum and you'll find plenty of good advice on how to r/r both the oil tank (if you need to) and the oil pressure sensor. Also on how to r/r the distributor and how to change the distributor belt.
No offense meant by saying this, but you seem to be out of your league with this problem based on what you've written. I would strongly suggest biting the bullet and having the car flat-bedded to someone knowledgeable about 964s. It's probably an easy fix. Best of luck.
The engine could be hydrolocked because it could have way too much oil in it. If the engine is hydrolocked, you could bend a rod merely by turning the engine over. Hydrolocked means the engine cylinders are full of oil. You might try removing the (bottom?) spark plugs to check.
When I change the oil in my 964, i never put in more than 5-6 quarts initially (with engine cold). Then start the car to warm the engine (this could take a while at current temps) and get the temp gauge to above the third mark on the gauge (where the oil thermostat opens and the oil in the tank then goes to the oil cooler up front and the gauge needle then drops). Then, add oil slowly a quart at a time until the correct level is measured on the dipstick. Then, the oil LEVEL needle moves to the 3 o'clock position.)
Do a search on this forum and you'll find plenty of good advice on how to r/r both the oil tank (if you need to) and the oil pressure sensor. Also on how to r/r the distributor and how to change the distributor belt.
No offense meant by saying this, but you seem to be out of your league with this problem based on what you've written. I would strongly suggest biting the bullet and having the car flat-bedded to someone knowledgeable about 964s. It's probably an easy fix. Best of luck.
#15
Thanks for the advice. No offense taken here Richard. I will get the heat exchangers off and try to free the oil trapped in the cylinders out. Hopefully the rod is still ok. Yes, my worst fear at the moment the bent rod. And flat-bed the car to reputable place is an option on the table.