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The content on here is great and I'm hoping to get some advise. I'm losing sleep over a few winter decisions I need to make. Here are the questions I hope some has experience in:
1. Can a 3.8L C4 pull a tire trailer safely? (probably harbor freight)
2. If so, how to I get a hitch on my car if I have an FVD exhaust. Does that matter. Where the heck does it get welded? Can I hide it under the plate?
(I will attach pictures of what trailer I dream about at night. So amazing.)
Random questions:
3. If I keep the C4 (instead of swapping tranny's for a C2) will hoosiers cause abnormal damage or wear to the C4 parts?
4. If I decide to pull the C4 for a C2...where the heck to I find one? (I rebuilt the C4 this year and out steel cyncros, but I would love to lose the weight and avoid even the slightest of understeer. Or maybe I'm losing my mind. Very possible...)
My experience with a tire trailer on a 964 was that it's critical to reinforce the aluminum bumper attachment to the chassis and keep the tongue load around 40-50 pounds. Keep the total weight of the trailer and load as low as possible (avoid the temptation to fill the toolbox, bring only essentials) this will help reduce the dynamic loads while towing. You'll be surprised just how high a trailer can bounce when you hit a nasty expansion joint at speed.
hmmm....so a roof rack might be easier. I will lose storage, but not have to remove my bumper etc... Doe you know of a quality roof rack set to carry the tires?
I was going to post the same links but Udo beat me to it. Gus built a new one after going with B&B exhaust, perhaps he'll chime in. You may also want to contact Willwood Systems, Will may have something for you. Here is his Flickr page that shows what he has done and below is a pic of his 964 hidden hitch.
As for the C2 vs. C4, several folks on here successfully track their C4 and I am sure they will chime in. Great looking C4 Larry.
hmmm....so a roof rack might be easier. I will lose storage, but not have to remove my bumper etc... Doe you know of a quality roof rack set to carry the tires?
Just a Thule rack with a platform would work. To make the rack flat, you use taller feet on the back. I have a set here and if you decide to go that way I'm happy to sell you mine or give you the part numbers.
Sorry, no advice for trailers, but I would like to say thank you for all the advice you've provided on your Youtube channel! Love your videos and it's been fun watching your car get built up to where it is now.
If your really serious about doing a lot of track days a dedicated tow vehicle and trailex trailer is by far the best way to go.
If you're looking to do a toter they have more benefit than the roof rack and allow you to haul tools and supplies as well as tires. I know many who have gone that route (mostly 968, cayman and boxsters) but after a year or so they usually switch to dedicated towing.
If you're running fabspeed you should have more room behind the rear bumper support. You should easily be able to design a system to bolt up to the bottom of the aluminum support bar that you bolt on with two bolts and remove when not towing. You would need to modify the underside of the bumper cover but should be able to do it in a way that is not overly invasive. Probably 2 1" round holes drilled through that would only be noticeable when up on a lift. You might consider the solid instead of impact bumper mounts if you do this. Not sure what the weight pulling on them will do but if it works on these other cars not sure why it wouldn't on your C4.
As far as swapping your C4 out to a C2. IMO the C2 is much more fun and challenging to drive flat out although both are great. The weight savings is huge and if you can drive a C2 full out you can drive just about anything. With that said don't hack up such a beautiful car. It is a lot of work and requires a lot of changes and expense. I just did this to my 90 C4 which is now a 3.8RS tribute with about 450 BHP.
You apparently plan on taking this further so find a donor while you still can and build it up to your specific needs. The transformation to these cars with monoballs stiffer suspension, negative camber is huge but will not fare well as a street car.
BTW the Spit emergency shine you gave away at the concours in CT this summer is some of the best detailing products I have used and I have been a die hard concours nut for a long time and tried most of them. Going to need to stock up on some more soon maybe try some of your other products.
Many here track C4s without issue. Both cars are wonderful...
From the factory both cars came with the same geometry settings and yet both cars are very different - what with the addition of front wheel drive in the C4.
For this reason both cars should be setup in different ways. This comes down to many different elements that in unison transform the car...
Spring rates, dampening settings, anti roll bars, geometry, tyre widths and indeed the type of compound you use.
Once a C4 is properly setup and driven in the way a C4 should be it is a more balanced car than a C2 with its traditional rear wheel and rear engined configuration.
Whilst there is no substitute for weight loss, don't underestimate the capabilities of a truly sorted C4. A life time of track experience and you'll still be learning...
That said if you wish to pursue with a C2 conversion I recommend you do it 'wholeheartedly'. That is to say go for an early ROW 993 six speed gearbox - these have shorter ratios and are the more economical of options. Going for a U.S. or later 993 six speed box will see virtually the same ratios as a 964 item with a the addition of a sixth motorway cruising gear - which for a track car is useless.
On the World 964 Owners website we have just this conversion in a recent article. I'll pop it on here when I'm back at my desk.
Fundamentally I would personally only explore a C2 conversion after making absolutely sure I've exploited all that is possible with a C4...
...7 years of rentlessly modifying my 964 and I'm still a C4 advocate. For what it's worth I also own a European RS lightweight. Both cars are thrilling in equal amounts and in different ways. The biggest mofication you can make to your car is intructor time.
NB: Your talent behind the wheel is the biggest factor in how fast your 964 is - not the C2 or C4 drivetrain.
Last edited by BLACK-BETTY; 12-02-2015 at 02:22 PM.
Random questions:
3. If I keep the C4 (instead of swapping tranny's for a C2) will hoosiers cause abnormal damage or wear to the C4 parts?
No you'll be fine. Just as you would with using 18 inch wheels. (Whilst not recommended by Porsche by period tech bulletin, many do track 18s with out issue. Just make sure you run tyres that keep your stock rolling radius.) The only items that could wear faster are wheel bearings amongst all items that wear faster on a tracked car. Perhaps also investigate using a 993 steering rack brace to eliviate stresses, easy mod that only requires the slight bending of a pipe.
Originally Posted by AMMONYC
4. If I decide to pull the C4 for a C2...where the heck to I find one? (I rebuilt the C4 this year and out steel cyncros, but I would love to lose the weight and avoid even the slightest of understeer. Or maybe I'm losing my mind. Very possible...)
If you've just rebuilt the gearbox I would say the cost reward of changing to C2 would be not worth it. Concentrate your energies of fine tunning the suspension dampening, roll bar settings and geometry to eliminate understeer.
Your best bet is for finding a replacement gearbox would be in the classified here, on pelican parts, eBay and ofcourse breakers yards... Be warned that buying a second hand gearbox is an unknown entity until you open it up.
I have just rebuilt my G64 transmission. In the last 10,000 miles I had tracked the car extensively. Apart from the expected synchro and other wear I was surprised to find extensive wear on the diff lock plates. The cost to replace them was considerable as the factory moved to Valeo discs post 1992 and there is no stock of the previous type I.e. You have to fully replace the existing discs. Now I'm converted it will be a lot cheaper next time as I'll just replace the worn discs not the full system but it's a point to factor in. Btw I will still track my car, it walks away from C2s when the track is wet and loses nothing in the dry that I've experienced.
If your really serious about doing a lot of track days a dedicated tow vehicle and trailex trailer is by far the best way to go.
......
Good advice I'll add it makes for a way more relaxing day. The car is 100% ready to go once off the trailer, ok maybe re-clean the windshield. You can carry whatever else is needed for a day, beverages, shade, reading material, food, ice, a change of clothes, tools, spares etc. If the car has a suspension biased toward track use You have a far more comfortable drive to and from w/ way less concern for roving gendarmes. If it rains you have a place to hibernate or read.
I just did this to my 90 C4 which is now a 3.8RS tribute with about 450 BHP.
Off Topic,
I've been meaning to ask, can you tell us more info on the engine?
What barrels and pistons are you using? Boat tailed case? Forged rods? Ported heads? What size valves? What compression and what boost? Did you use the original heads and machine a groove for sealing rings? Also what engine management are you using, with knock?
12-02-2015, 10:03 AM
AMMO 964 Tire Trailer Question
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...s-meets-3.html
