kokolyia

I've found it to be quite difficult to shift into first when starting from rest. I have to basically push the clutch pedal as far as possible into the floor in order for it to get into 1st without having to really shove it but it is still not a smooth and seamless shift at all. Is this normal for a C4 and if not what might be the issue? Thanks

LM964

How about reverse gear - easy or difficult also? And is this from cold or when warm/hot?

Had similar issue with a C4 and a complete clutch bleed and fluid replace did the trick. Perfect.

Richard Curtis

In my experience, this is usually a badly worn clutch. This is from 50 years experience from Corvairs, 442s, et al. Try this to verify: With the engine running put it into second gear first, then shift into first without letting out the clutch. If it then goes easily into first, it's the clutch.

tbennett017

Before you worry too much, I'd search for "roll pin" and read up there. With the engine off, is it hard to get into first/reverse?

Rocket Rob

Can you shift the car into first with the engine off? Is this a recent change or has it always been this way? I would agree that you should double check your roll pin and also bleed the clutch hydraulics. Hoping this is a simple fix and not a full clutch replacement.

kokolyia

With the engine off it is easy to shift into first and reverse. When it is on not so much. It's also not easy to shift from second to first without using the clutch.

I just got the car so it's been like this for as long as I've known. I was told it was a bit spongy int the PPI but it feels fine to me. It gets a bit better after a while when everything is warm but it's not great and I still have to push the clutch pedal more or less into the floor and shove from neutral to first to start off.
I'll bleed the clutch and check the roll pin when I get the chance so fingers crossed! In the meantime please let me know what you think based on the info provided! Thanks

Rocket Rob

If you can easily engage with the engine off, then it sounds like the cause is the clutch is not fully disengaging. A faulty roll pin or air in the hydraulics can cause this. Also check the adjustment of the clutch pedal stop. The workshop manual lists how to measure and adjust it. You want to check/eliminate all of the external causes of this before deciding to drop the engine and replace the clutch.

tbennett017

+what Rob says. It's not hard to bleed the clutch. I'd do that first, and inspect the pedal cluster/roll pin.

FeralComprehension

Other things not mentioned- replace the soft line at the clutch slave, ensure that you're getting full travel at the pedal (is the stop set too far down, is there a floormat preventing full pedal depression).

kokolyia

An update on the symptoms: it's smooth to put into first when I first start it and go, but over time and on longer drives it gets progressively harder and then much harder

LM964

Less mechanical, more about the fluid use me thinks. Had exactly the same - worse the warmer or longer use. Two jam jars of jet black contaminated and knackered oil later and a flush through - perfect.

Rocket Rob

+1 - sounds like a hydraulics issue. Have you had a chance to bleed yet?

kokolyia

Not yet but I will soon. Do I only need to bleed the clutch? Also, would I need something like the Bosch Hammer or is it relatively simple to DIY (without a lift)?

kokolyia

What did you use to bleed it? Thanks

Badluck

Yes, you will have to bleed the clutch.
Not that difficult with a power bleeder.
just make sure you clamp off the overflow tube on the reservoir an be sure to keep the latter topped up during the process. Otherwise you risk getting air trapped in the circuit. There's a nice DIY on here somewhere.