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One thing I would like to note, if thinking about using the "frame rails" be careful. I set my stands under one thinking it was the strong spot only to have it start collapsing under the cars weight (the rail, not the floor pan).
It could be that my stands didn't distribute the weight right (small contact point). I have taken to putting a 2x4 in between (when I have to use the rails) and have had no troubles since.
As indicated, those are jack points, i.e., where to place the jack to lift the car. Jack stands (4) would be distributed more inboard underneath the car if one intended to keep the car off the ground for some period.
One thing I would like to note, if thinking about using the "frame rails" be careful. I set my stands under one thinking it was the strong spot only to have it start collapsing under the cars weight (the rail, not the floor pan).
It could be that my stands didn't distribute the weight right (small contact point). I have taken to putting a 2x4 in between (when I have to use the rails) and have had no troubles since.
This is what I have done in the past, using a block of wood and it has worked. Just tried Raj's method of jacking the car up from the rear jack points and then placing stands underneath the front jack points... was kind of scary because I had to get the car up so high to get stands underneath the car... I may go back to the block of wood and "frame rails" strategy...
I also tried putting stands underneath the castor blocks, but as I lifted the other side, the car shifted so much on the stand that I was afraid of marring my brand new castor blocks!
Argh!!!! Why did they not just make this easier for us!
Arash, I am worried too. I don't mind jacking from that point, but I want a more solid place to put the jack stand. As a matter of fact, I am thinking of buying the ESCO 3-Ton Flat-top jack stand. They are expensive, but I feel that they are worth it!!
BTW, I love that new pix of your car. Horizon Blue......Just love it!
Thanks! I don't drive it very often so I tend to neglect it. You have a sweet new avatar too! Regarding the jacks: For work only requiring one corner up, I jack up at the caster block and use a jack stand under the factory jack point, leaving most of the weight on the jack. When I want the whole front up, I put the jack stands under the jack points... for the lack of another choice.
Originally Posted by Luis de Prat
And how do you reach the caster blocks with the jack?
Unless your car is higher sprung than most, I'd say you need to raise it from somewhere else before the caster blocks are accessible...
On the car with stock suspension, my jack rolls under the car with no problem. On the lowered car, the jack won't clear by only a cm. So I leave the jack on the ground next to the car, then I pull up on the fender lip and kick the jack under. Or I could just drive it onto short 2x8 planks.
This should be easy but I guess I must be dumb. I've gone through a whole flock of threads and still can't figure out how to put my 968 up on jack stands. The 968 doesn't seem to match a good photo of a 944 with circles and squares indicating jacking points and jack stand points. There doesn't seem to be a center side point under the door to jack the 968 up. Then there are castor blocks, torsion bar tubes, frame rails, front crossmember, etc mentioned in threads. I have no idea what to use or what these things look like and can't see much when I lay down and look under the car with a light.
If I use a jack point in front of the back wheel and or behind the front wheel I can only put one Jack stand under the Jack point not used.
i just want to remove the wheels, 1 or 2 at a time to clean the disk hubs and paint them. The car doesn't have to be very high,
Can someone point me to a picture of where to put the stands on a 968 and/or where to locate the floor jack in the front or rear to one end up to place 2 stands.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Dave
cabs have a double floor but the points are the same. for soft top cars, it is best to release both doors to the first catch and release the top. it is easier on the hinges and the top mechanism. I use two floor jacks and stagger lifting both sides as it is easier on the chassis.
if your floor jack has enough reach, using the front cross member is the easiest.
if not, stick your hand under the front fender plastic side cladding and you will feel a cut out with a flat square stamping with a hole welded to the floor. remove the cup from your jack and center the jack by feel. stay away from the plastic. if the jack pad starts to touch the plastic as the jack moves through its arc, lower the jack and reposition it inward a few mm. the picture floating round says not to use them but they work fine if you center the load and they're not compromised by rust or bent up. this is a lift point only and don't use a jack stand there.
jack stand placement should go on the flat section of the unibody frame rails aft of the bell housing. don't crush the fuel lines or brake line.
the official jack point when using the factory supplied jack is located below the striker plate on the door. if you have a flat on the side of the road, this point should lift the front and rear on that side. this point works fine for lifting the rear of the car. place your jack stand across the seam between the end of the torsion bar tube and the aluminum carrier.
Jacking up a lower than stock 968 can be a pita. I made ramps out of 4x12's just to get the jack with a hockey puck to lift points. I made wheel stands so that after I lift it I could safely work underneath...I was quickly running out of garage space with the ramps and stands.
So I recently broke down and bought a quickjack. It came with two different sized (height) lift blocks that are difficult to position to lift points without hitting the rockers and close enough to lift point that a hockey puck can't be pushed in...Here I am again...Having to use my ramps...Thought this was the answer...I wish the lift pucks I have for the 986 fit a 968...Wait, you don't think, the lift pucks only fit the 986 and 996??? Perfect is how they fit. The 986 lift point opening is identical to the 968 (not the distance between the two) and fit within the 968 rocker opening like they were meant for the 968. once in opening you turn to lock in place.
I can now quickly lift my 968's, slap jack stands under to be safe, and get to work.
I contacted the manufacturer of the lift pucks to get more (one set of four for each car) so that I can have them in the car available when I need things like tires or alignment. He stopped making them but he still has some in stock.
Here are some images: side view
Last edited by spark1; 05-18-2019 at 11:19 PM.
Reason: typo
Thank you Rob! At the risk of being off topic:
That photo was taken the day before I sold it. My first new road bike, as a senior in high school, was a silver/smoke '76 R90S. I always lamented the fact that I sold her. I tried to find find an R90S years later and happened upon the R100S in the photo. Although the smoke/silver paint was not correct for an R100S, I restored the R100S and painted as you see it to remind me of my beloved smoke/silver R90S. My son loved the R100S. I told him the story about why I built the bike the way I did and why I sold her. He asked me if we could find another and restore it together. He is now a senior in high school and we found a '75 R90S and are restoring it together.
01-04-2009, 03:16 PM
