Bolts missing from manifold - CPO warranty
#31
Rennlist Member
I assume you mean a 12 point socket?
#32
Burning Brakes
A six point socket will actually work in a pinch, but it's really not a great idea if you need to apply any significant torque.
You can get a proper e-torx set for not too much money.
You can get a proper e-torx set for not too much money.
#34
Three Wheelin'
First off, use the right tools. Using a 10 mm socket will only round off the edges of the E12 bolt- these E-Series Torx are designed to have maximum surface area between the bolt and the socket, they're also designed to have the bolt auto-index into the socket, when being assembled by automated machinery. That's why the use of this type of bolt has become popular in modern engines. - without the or something similar like
, it is very tricky as above posts have noted... Considering that the gaskets between the block and manifold are "Single use" maybe that exorbitant fee charged by the dealership was to replace not just the bolt, but all bolts and the gaskets in the correct torquing sequence.. I just noticed I've lost three bolts, and my solution will be to go through the torque sequence again, and replace the bolts that have backed out with some locktite. I don't really think Loctite is a great solution, but this isn't the first time it's happened to me nor other 3.4l owners-
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aryork (09-15-2023)
#35
Rennlist Member
First off, use the right tools. Using a 10 mm socket will only round off the edges of the E12 bolt- these E-Series Torx are designed to have maximum surface area between the bolt and the socket, they're also designed to have the bolt auto-index into the socket, when being assembled by automated machinery. That's why the use of this type of bolt has become popular in modern engines. - without the Hazet 880G or something similar like this at Amazon, it is very tricky as above posts have noted... Considering that the gaskets between the block and manifold are "Single use" maybe that exorbitant fee charged by the dealership was to replace not just the bolt, but all bolts and the gaskets in the correct torquing sequence.. I just noticed I've lost three bolts, and my solution will be to go through the torque sequence again, and replace the bolts that have backed out with some locktite. I don't really think Loctite is a great solution, but this isn't the first time it's happened to me nor other 3.4l owners-
#36
Burning Brakes
You shouldn't need loctite. Just torque the bolts to spec in the correct sequence, then retorque after a few hundred miles. In my experience they don't loosen after that.
#37
Loctite wouldn't help anyway as heat is how you melt it to remove it. One would need the red version to prevent the natural manifold heat from melting it, and then you would need a torch to get the bolts back out when needed after using the red, so not a good idea at all.
Last edited by ICNU; 09-17-2023 at 10:09 AM.
#38
Rennlist Member
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I installed/removed/installed aftermarket and OEM headers on my car multiple times for various reasons, two different aftermarket headers and my original OEM headers.
I never had one bolt come loose over 34 track days and 30,000 miles of street driving. I always used new exhaust gaskets. I always used extra care to make sure the exhaust tube for each exhaust port was flat on the surface of the cylinder head as I began the torque sequence. I always used a two phase torque sequence, 11 lb-ft the first time and 22 lb-ft the second time. Never had anything connected to or pushing on the exhaust manifold as I did this process. I never used any Loctite or anti-seize, I just made sure the threads were clean. I reused bolts sometimes, sometimes not. Maybe I was just lucky, I dunno.
Edit: I am back to OEM headers now due to having retired my Boxster from track life.
I never had one bolt come loose over 34 track days and 30,000 miles of street driving. I always used new exhaust gaskets. I always used extra care to make sure the exhaust tube for each exhaust port was flat on the surface of the cylinder head as I began the torque sequence. I always used a two phase torque sequence, 11 lb-ft the first time and 22 lb-ft the second time. Never had anything connected to or pushing on the exhaust manifold as I did this process. I never used any Loctite or anti-seize, I just made sure the threads were clean. I reused bolts sometimes, sometimes not. Maybe I was just lucky, I dunno.
Edit: I am back to OEM headers now due to having retired my Boxster from track life.
Last edited by okie981; 09-16-2023 at 02:22 PM.