kiznarsh

You still need to remove the panel to access that top bolt for the t-stat housing. Are you not planning on replacing the water pump too? Or has that recently been done?

Definitely recommend you do both, especially since you have to drain the coolant anyway.

User 52121

No not planning on doing the WP. Allegedly (not gonna get into it) the motor has low miles on it (~25k) so the WP should be fine. The car has a garbage low-temp t-stat in it which causes all kinds of issues on a street car so I'm pulling it.

Or rather... having it pulled. I don't want to deal with trying to burp the cooling system. Local euro shop has a vacuum system. This thread was very helpful for them... (tho they missed the part about the pressed-in ring... oops)

kiznarsh

Fair enough. Glad it worked out.

coakland

What were the problems you were having with the low-temp t-stat?

kiznarsh

No problems, just preventative maintenance given the mileage (around 73k at the time). If you're going through the trouble of replacing the water pump, makes sense to replace the t-stat too. All t-stats are wear items after all.

Jeff Curtis

Oh boy did I have issues with the Dichtring.
I bought a used engine from a wrecked 2012 Cayman R, when it arrived, the thermostat housing was damaged, due to the fact it hangs lower than the oil pan so just sitting it on a pallet put stress on it.

I can say, when you order a new housing it does NOT come with the Dichtring. I ordered a couple of those as I was going to change to a low temp thermostat in both “resident” 987.2 race chassis.

Because I had yet to mess with thermostats / housings / Dichtrings in either vehicle, I wasn’t sure about how it was going to work so I ordered two Dichtrings. After trying to install one in the new housing, unsuccessfully, using an oven to heat it up, etc. I decided not to change it out on the other 987.2 race car…absolutely NO issues with using the lower rating thermostat x3yrs, it’s just a lower rated thermostat…so the guy who called it “junk” or whatever, not sure what the issues were.

I slapped mine together without the Dichtring and all worked out for several events…now I’m dealing with the coolant spewing every time I come off the track. I’ve been dealing with it since last Summer and I’m down to installing a factory fan / relay on the passenger side as I have been running without fans (for 5-6yrs) and not pressing a Dichring into the thermostat housing for about 2yrs, previous drivetrain was a 987.1

One question, what size socket, etc. did you find worked best? I want to say I had a 1 5/16” or something like that? I’ll check tonight.

kiznarsh

Well this brought back fond memories.

Don't recall the socket size but tried a couple different ones until we found the right one.

One thing I've since learned is an easier way to remove this. Place a nut at the bottom of the housing, then use a right-angle pick and place it on top of the nut and use it as a lever to pop out the Dichtring. Sreten recorded this trick that came out of the M5 Boards which looks to have the same design:

Action starts here:

Jeff Curtis

Yeah cool trick, I didn’t need to remove one because the new housing didn’t come with one installed…I’ll be taking this round a bit more seriously and figuring out which socket / piece of pipe I’ll need.

What was the sealant he was using?
I think he said “Reizen Seal”? …and I saw the first part of the name on the tube he was using…

EDIT: I see he is using “Reinzosil” and found it on Amazon, now to find that cool dispensing gun he was using.

I can’t find it but always enjoy using new products, my favorite all time sealant is Ultra Gray which used to be branded as Yamabond, by Yamaha for an engine case half sealant. I’ve used it on various sealing points on Porsche engines for many many years.