Eggbert

Oil change done, new battery and driver's door internal latch mechanism changed. What's next? Wish the Dealer was closer so I could ask for a maintenance history report.

Next? New plugs for sure and possibly coils too. But what about the fuel injectors? (oh.... 80,000 miles on car). When cold, the engine stutters a bit at idle until it warms up. Today I added some STP fuel injector cleaner. I didn't want to use the stronger stuff with PEA that loosens carbon as I just changed the oil. Car sat all afternoon and started up this evening and idled perfectly. Need to leave it longer and double check then.

Long Term Fuel Trim was -4.7 for Bank 1 and -9.4 for Bank 2. Hopefully that Bank 2 number will get smaller as the injector cleaner continues to work.

On another note, the engine should be in good shape as the cam deviations were small. Bank 1 was -2.92 and Bank 2 was -1.95 . No smoke at idle, tailpipe a little carboned up.

So after all that I will be left with two things: 1/ the possibility of bore scoring which I think can be put off a long time with frequent oil changes, well at least more frequent that the manual says, and 2/ the IMS issue.

I may drop the transmission over the winter to remove the IMS bearing outer seal, or I may not. They say only 1% of the non-removable large bearings ever fail, but 1% is actually a lot. 1 in 100. I'd like 0.01% better.

I am starting to trust the car more though and am getting more comfortable driving it... getting quite a bit of fun out of it too. Just a little buyer's remorse due to all the hype on the IMS and to a lesser extent bore-scoring.

harveyf

This question gets asked many times many ways. Assuming you plan to keep the car for a while and actually drive it, my impression of the 'average' response for a car with 80K miles:
Clutch, flywheel
Water pump, coolant
While you are in there- front motor mount and the two large coolant hoses at that location
Plugs, coil packs. Injectors not mentioned as much but I think they are a good idea.
Serpentine belt
Air filter
Evaluate suspension- fix as required
And from out of left field- mice proof your car. Don't ask me how I know

Eggbert

Thank-you for your reply. I do plan on driving the car, but it's a hobby car so I have just as much fun tinkering as driving... maybe more! However, based on all the parts replacement recommendations it does appear the car is a money pit even if I do all the work myself. Without thinking too hard, no doubt a new AOS and shift cables can be added to the list. I do have a question though... new clutch and flywheel? I suspect you are thinking normal wear and tear, or is there some sort of deterioration due to age only? Can not the flywheel be resurfaced?

The clutch works fine so far (no slipping) and I know it has had a lot of highway miles (judging by owners in Boston, North Carolina, Nebraska, Alberta, Ontario and now here in Nova Scotia. Mostly rural locations too. To be honest, I don't like the clutch. There is no change in feel as I let the pedal up, so I'm never quiet sure when it's close to engagement. No doubt with more time behind the wheel I'll become consistent with it.

I'm very pleased to get responses. I often write as it helps me clarify in my mind what I want to do, or sort out a problem. I appreciate your time.

RJ80

I wouldn't do any work that the car doesn't immediately need, but to keep any Cayman in tip-top condition is never going to be inexpensive. These were expensive cars when they were new, and while the cars themselves depreciate, their parts and labor requirements tend to do the opposite.

harveyf

It is my understanding that the flywheel has an elastic section that causes it to double as a crankshaft vibration damper. I cannot say that it will or will not fail anytime soon but if you are going to do an engine out to do the clutch, then most mechanics think about doing the flywheel "while you are in there". There has been a thread here in the last 6 months where someones flywheel let go. I don't think the car becomes inoperable (so you can theoretically get home) but it makes a hell of a racket. If you are going to do your own work, as a hobby (I am in the same boat) there does come a point where you just wait for things to fail, knowing you can deal with it as it comes. It just depends on your comfort level.

wrose

I purchased a 08 Boxster S last spring with 28000 kms( now has 54000 kms) and over last winter did some preventative maintenance based on its age: oil & filter changes @ 6000kms with Blackstone analysis;each change AOS replacement. Transmission fluid replacement with Red Line; Spark Plugs and Ignition Coils; Coolant flush and replacement with Porsche coolant; Center Radiator kit; Water Pump and Thermostat; So far this summer I have had trouble free driving for around 8000 kms.

Eggbert

T-Y for all the replies. Basically my problem is not knowing what has been done. For example, I changed the oil, but it could have been done a week before I bought it. No big deal, but what if the clutch was also done recently... a lot of work to find out, although a clutch problem isn't likely to strand you. So I'm trying to get on top of things so when something does break, I won't be surrounded by al kinds of other problems needing attention.

Speaking of which, I May just be having my first new problem. As it's a very separate issue, I think I ought to start a new thread on it. Fuel Pump.....

harveyf

I bought a 2007 Cayman with multiple previous owners. I got lucky on 2 fronts. The seller told me it had sold on Bringatrailer at some point. I was able to find that ad, which filled in some gaps. Also, a Carfax was referenced (or they found the Carfax when I got my PPI). Anyway, the Carfax, among other things, showed a clutch job at around 75K miles. The shop was listed such that I could actually contact them. They had records and told me what they did. It included a new flywheel!

ekam

If the clutch is not slipping why bother replacing?

But yes, if you're doing the clutch you should do the flywheel at the same time as it would likely be worn out and you're not going to remove the tranny just to do the flywheel.

XuTVJet

My 2011 Cayman base 6MT is a few years newer and was CPO'd. I bought the car in October 2022 with 68K miles and this is everything that needed replacing and/or was past it's service life (based on age), all work done by me except the clutch and flywheel.

- Clutch and flywheel. The clutch pedal was very heavy and the flywheel had failed. I managed to get $3K from Porsche Colorado Springs for a new clutch and flywheel.
- Engine mount and transmission mounts. The engine mount was ripped and the transmission mounts sagging. Again, missed by CPO.
- Cracked AOS vent line from AOS to throttle body. Again, missed by CPO.
- Engine air filter was filthy. Again, missed by CPO.
- Leaking belt tensioner. Again, missed by CPO.
- Severely worn original cable shifters and bushings. Since the car technically could be shifted, I guess it passes CPO. LOL.
- Original gas cap. O-ring seal had degraded and was throwing a gas tank vapor control CEL.
- Original coil packs. Past their service life.
- Original AOS. Past it's service life.
- Original clutch pedal and brake switches. Past their service life.
- Original metal exhaust gaskets between cats and mufflers. One side had a minor leak, likely caused when the muffler assembly was dropped for the clutch replacement.

Coming up in the next 6 months:
- Replace original rear brake rotors.
- Replace original coolant.
- New springs, struts, top hats, bearings, etc. I think these are still fine, but I want to drop the car so might as well do it all. All control arm bushings still look completely fine and no signs of tearing or degradation.

jbx2

I would look at this by asking "what would be a catastrophic failure?" and then prioritize on down the line. I would check the coolant pump, belt, pulley and tensioner. Then maybe heat exchangers up front along with the associated hoses. Next I'd move on to plugs and coil packs, then suspension. Of course brakes are a wear item and can be easily addressed as needed. If it's a manual 6 speed I'd check the shift cables. Otherwise drive it till it breaks?