Removing muffler/cat nuts
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Removing muffler/cat nuts
I was able to remove 2 of the 3 muffler to cat nuts from the threaded bolt, but am having a hard time getting leverage for the last one, the hardest to reach one that is behind the metal flange of the muffler. I have the rear driver side wheel off and also removed that plastic panel so I can see the bolt - any tips/tricks on how to get that one off?
#3
Three Wheelin'
Rather than WD40 (a light oil lubricant), a proper rust and corrosion penetration compound, typically is a better solution?
I used Waco's Rasupene, which includes a proper surficant, teflon, and similar I think.
When upgrading to a Carnewal GT muffler set, all my otherwise rusted exhaust fittings released nicely accordingly.
I would assume similar product is available from other suppliers...
I used Waco's Rasupene, which includes a proper surficant, teflon, and similar I think.
When upgrading to a Carnewal GT muffler set, all my otherwise rusted exhaust fittings released nicely accordingly.
I would assume similar product is available from other suppliers...
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dxrohanx (01-28-2024)
#5
Rennlist Member
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#8
Rennlist Member
Agree with PBBlaster.
Not sure what tools you have in your chest but if you can reach either the nut or the bolt head with a socket, see if you can intially get the nut and bolt unit, probably corroded together, to turn in the hole, working from the accesible side with a good size beaker bar. Keep dousing it with the penetrant. Whichever side (bolt or nut) you can best get a purchase on, continue with the socket and breaker bar. On the other side, even grabbing it with some vicegrips may suffice. With a little luck, it will wring itself into two pieces at some point, as I am sure you are going to replace the hardware. Heating up the connection with a propane torch may help also.
Not sure what tools you have in your chest but if you can reach either the nut or the bolt head with a socket, see if you can intially get the nut and bolt unit, probably corroded together, to turn in the hole, working from the accesible side with a good size beaker bar. Keep dousing it with the penetrant. Whichever side (bolt or nut) you can best get a purchase on, continue with the socket and breaker bar. On the other side, even grabbing it with some vicegrips may suffice. With a little luck, it will wring itself into two pieces at some point, as I am sure you are going to replace the hardware. Heating up the connection with a propane torch may help also.
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dxrohanx (01-28-2024)
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harveyf (01-31-2024)
#10
Rennlist Member
Rather than WD40 (a light oil lubricant), a proper rust and corrosion penetration compound, typically is a better solution?
I used Waco's Rasupene, which includes a proper surficant, teflon, and similar I think.
When upgrading to a Carnewal GT muffler set, all my otherwise rusted exhaust fittings released nicely accordingly.
I would assume similar product is available from other suppliers...
I used Waco's Rasupene, which includes a proper surficant, teflon, and similar I think.
When upgrading to a Carnewal GT muffler set, all my otherwise rusted exhaust fittings released nicely accordingly.
I would assume similar product is available from other suppliers...
The following users liked this post:
andrewro (02-04-2024)
#11
Heat is my go to. Plumber's torch on the nut for a while, red hot, then put a wrench on it. If that doesn't work the first time, then heat, pb blaster spray, heat, and repeat that for a bit, heat cycling the pb in there (in my head anyway).
Failing all of that, I cut it off and replace it.
Failing all of that, I cut it off and replace it.
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andrewro (02-04-2024)