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Removing muffler/cat nuts

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Old 01-26-2024, 01:57 PM
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nate5150
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Default Removing muffler/cat nuts

I was able to remove 2 of the 3 muffler to cat nuts from the threaded bolt, but am having a hard time getting leverage for the last one, the hardest to reach one that is behind the metal flange of the muffler. I have the rear driver side wheel off and also removed that plastic panel so I can see the bolt - any tips/tricks on how to get that one off?
Old 01-26-2024, 02:18 PM
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Cemlo
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Soak in WD40, it's a PITA access wise - I remenber struggling with extensions and a universal joint adapter/socket - the bolt snapped in the end
Old 01-27-2024, 09:10 AM
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Kuro Neko
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Rather than WD40 (a light oil lubricant), a proper rust and corrosion penetration compound, typically is a better solution?
I used Waco's Rasupene, which includes a proper surficant, teflon, and similar I think.

When upgrading to a Carnewal GT muffler set, all my otherwise rusted exhaust fittings released nicely accordingly.



I would assume similar product is available from other suppliers...
Old 01-27-2024, 10:21 AM
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TMc993
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I'd use PB Blaster rather than WD 40. Use it liberally and let it sit for several hours.
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dxrohanx (01-28-2024)
Old 01-27-2024, 11:18 AM
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RandyL
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Originally Posted by TMc993
I'd use PB Blaster rather than WD 40. Use it liberally and let it sit for several hours.
Indeed, use a product designed to penetrate such as PB Blaster, but there are others, and frankly I let mine soak for a few days and I think it helped.
Old 01-27-2024, 11:54 AM
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ClemCLone
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I had a similar problem.
I had to get a 'nut extractor' on it.
It's like a screw extractor, but for nuts.
That and PB Blaster
Old 01-27-2024, 11:57 AM
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McSwine
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Kroil is good.
Old 01-27-2024, 12:03 PM
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harveyf
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Agree with PBBlaster.
Not sure what tools you have in your chest but if you can reach either the nut or the bolt head with a socket, see if you can intially get the nut and bolt unit, probably corroded together, to turn in the hole, working from the accesible side with a good size beaker bar. Keep dousing it with the penetrant. Whichever side (bolt or nut) you can best get a purchase on, continue with the socket and breaker bar. On the other side, even grabbing it with some vicegrips may suffice. With a little luck, it will wring itself into two pieces at some point, as I am sure you are going to replace the hardware. Heating up the connection with a propane torch may help also.
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Old 01-31-2024, 06:36 PM
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cgfen
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Agreed, Kroil is best. IMO
Water Displacement 40 is NOT a rust buster.
Good luck with the DIY.
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harveyf (01-31-2024)
Old 01-31-2024, 06:37 PM
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cgfen
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Originally Posted by Kuro Neko
Rather than WD40 (a light oil lubricant), a proper rust and corrosion penetration compound, typically is a better solution?
I used Waco's Rasupene, which includes a proper surficant, teflon, and similar I think.

When upgrading to a Carnewal GT muffler set, all my otherwise rusted exhaust fittings released nicely accordingly.

I would assume similar product is available from other suppliers...
kool user name and avatar mr black cat!

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andrewro (02-04-2024)
Old 02-01-2024, 02:44 AM
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GLTHFJ60
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Heat is my go to. Plumber's torch on the nut for a while, red hot, then put a wrench on it. If that doesn't work the first time, then heat, pb blaster spray, heat, and repeat that for a bit, heat cycling the pb in there (in my head anyway).

Failing all of that, I cut it off and replace it.
Old 02-02-2024, 02:58 AM
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Kuro Neko
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Originally Posted by cgfen
kool user name and avatar mr black cat!
The only thing better than a black cat, is three black cats!
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andrewro (02-04-2024)



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