Youngsurph

Hi guys,



First post, first Porsche questions so be gentle. I am sure these topics have been covered in previous threads but wanted to combine the topics in one post.



I'm in the market for 987.1 2.7 or 3.4s and the 987.2 2.9. Trying to stay under $30k so those generations/years seem to be around that price.



I'm trying to do my due diligence and research to reduce the likelihood that I purchase a problematic car. It seeems to me that each of the generations/ year's listed above have issues/drawbacks/barrier to each of them.



To preface i currently have a VA Subaru Wrx which is quiet torqie and quick off the line. That being said, the 2.7l seems like a good reliable choice but I think it would feel really slow or sluggish compared to my current vehicle.



The notorious 3.4s and its bore scoring issues. I have called ~10 Indy Porsche shops around me (FL) to get there objective opinion on whether the issue is blown out of proportion (no pun intentend). Most of the shops agreed that they very rarely see bore scored engines and the disgruntled customers online have the loudest voices. So this may be a viable option in the end.



The 987.2 seems like the best all around option but the used supply is limited due to the 08 recession and people not buying new Porsches around that time.



I am looking at a few different cars around the SE USA and have found one in particular that seems like a really good deal (almost too good). There is a 3.4s 42k miles in the mid $20k price range. The car has great service history and no accidents. Unfortunately this car is in a different state and at a dealer. I would want to get the car scoped and have a PPI done on it before I fly or drive out to purchase.



Question 1: do you think there is such a thing a too good of deal, like they might be hiding something?



Question 2: what do you think would be the best way to get scoping and PPI done: see if the dealership can drive the car to my selected Indy shop in the area or see if a mechanic from that shop can come scope/ppi the vehicle on the lot?



TIA

SeanPatrick31

Best wishes on your search. You will get a lot of different advice. If I were you, I would hold out for a 987.2 Base. I am biased in that I own two. A .2 for reasons that you’re likely away of (updated interior, new engines, etc.). A Base because it fits your budget and the 2.9 is a great engine. Yes, 987.2 cars are rare, but they are out there. Be ready to act fast.

I also owed a 2006 STI. Yes, the 987 cars are significantly down on torque compared to the WRX / STI. Just keep it between 3000-6000 and you’ll be fine.

Enjoy the search!

Zepper

For sure seems like too good to be true especially if it's a 987.2 car. PDK 987.2 S cars seem to sell in the mid 30's, manuals high thirties to mid forties.

No affiliation with this 987.2 base, but it looked like an ok deal based on mileage and asking price.

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...ckType=listing

Youngsurph

Just to clarify, the car that I was referring to as too good of a deal, is a 987.1 2007 cayman S 6MT, 42kmiles, clean carfax For $25K. You can see at the bottom where it has the kbb value it is lower than the suggested range for that area, just kind of odd. Here is the link: I thought you would like this Used 2007 Porsche Cayman S for $24900 on Autotrader http://atcm.co/S2PVDP/29C7D09A.

as far as the 987.2 you shared a link for. I contacted them about that one and they sent me carfax and it had two accidents unfortunately. But thanks for sending it anyway!

Schwinn

I came from a modified Legacy GT, so I totally understand the fun of straight-line acceleration. These cars are not drag cars - they're about handling. I got mine because I also rode sportbikes - cruisers never had the handling I wanted, and were just awful in that sense. The Boxster is my way of losing the bike, while keeping most of it's capability (hence the convertible).

Make sure you drive them all. I tried S and non-S and found that I didn't need to pay the premium for the S - the 987.2 base was plenty, and is still stupidly fast. Had mine up to 130 with the top down, soon after getting it... it really is amazing.

I still haven't really pushed the car's limits... that's where the fun is. It handles so good, I don't care that I'm down on power... so if you're looking for that, then you're in the right place.

I agree with others that the bore scoring isn't as big of a deal. But, again, you may not need the S anyway. But if you do get an S, I would certainly get a PPI anyway, and check the bores just in case. If you get the non-S, you can skip that (I did). I got mine for $24k from Carvana... so like others said, be on the lookout and be ready to jump. They won't hang around long.

old man neri

Here is the build sheet. I think they refer to this as 'poverty spec' and there is nothing wrong with that. Other 'S' models may come with things such as PSE, PASM, PLDS, PTV...etc which can add a fair amount to the price.

harveyf

It always seems to happen that you start looking for a car and immediately find one that looks like a good deal. But you are a nubie and just don't know what you don't know. I'd suggest you pass on this one, try and get some test drives in the various models you mentioned (join the PCA and pester local members for ride-alongs), gain some knowledge, and enjoy the hunt. My most recent purchase was a 2007 Cayman S with ~100K. The seller, in Portland OR arranged a PPI at a local shop. They didn't even offer to scope it.

Food for thought:
https://newhillgarage.com/2024/01/09...-it-practical/

Zepper

Yikes. Was it his buddy's shop? Do you know?

I think I'd scope a 100k mile performance car.

harveyf

@Zepper Well, there's a little more to the story. I bought the car almost solely due to its Forest Green Metallic color. I was already mentally committed to a full rebuild of the engine, to bring it back to a as-new baseline, which I have done. So I really just wanted to make sure the car was roadworthy when I bought it. But yes, I'm sure the seller and the shop knew each other. The PPI was very professional and well documented. And as the OP points out, there are voices out there (probably not on this forum) that say buy the car you want in the spec you want and the "odds" are good that bore scoring and IMS bearings issues will never arise. We could argue that attitude at great length. Let's not!

What I did not mention is that the OP needs to evalute his DIY skills. I would never advise someone who is "on a budget" to buy any 18 year old high performance vehicle if he was going to be at the mercy of others to keep it running correctly. Although Porsches are generally pretty bullet proof, these are not cheap cars to own, maintain correctly, and operate.

RJ80

Good looking out, but.... this car was being offered back when I was still on the hunt in Fall 2023 and I guess it still hasn't sold.

As can be seen in the photos, the red is a vinyl wrap (the gaps all appear to be be gray or silver) and the wheels, exhaust and rear spoiler are aftermarket. I'd proceed with caution on this one, especially that it's now been on the market for nearly half a year. Good 987.2 models tend to sell much faster than that. It has the appearance of a car that wasn't particularly well looked after to me.