blackknight530i

Hey everyone, I have confirmed that the car now drives. I decided to pressure test the clutch line and see if that seal was needed and apparently, it's not. Filled the clutch line and bled it and that all works fine. Took it for a drive around the neighborhood last night and it seemed to do fine with no strange noises. Decided to take it down the road on my usual test loop and it did something crazy. Once I got to about 45 MPH or so, the instrument cluster lit up like a Christmas tree. ABS, PSM, System Fault, check engine light, spoiler control, etc. failure and speedo stopped registering. Car still seemed to be running fine, so drove it back home. Checked the codes and basically, everything seemed to be pointing to the PSM module taking down the CAN bus. Nearly every module that talks to the PSM had an error message saying PSM signal implausible and the PSM had an error for wheel speed monitoring implausible or something like that. I cleared the codes and went out for another drive and did it a few more times and every time, it seemed to do the same thing around the same speeds. This morning, I decided to check the ground wire I was using for my rate of turn sensor wiring as I kept it using the GND Out from the PSM, which doesn't actually connect directly to a body ground it seems. I added a new ground wire to the ground post and took it for another few drives and it kept doing the same thing, though this time it seemed to only throw up the PSM related lights on the dash. Not sure if that means anything or not. Since the lights went away every time the car was shut down and started back up, I figured it's nothing wrong with the actual wiring or sensors, so I decided to try putting my old PSM module in and see if it still does it. This is where things get interesting. The first thing that happens is I get a PSM failure as soon as the car starts due to the Rate of Turn sensor not being the old one wired up like the old one and steering angle sensor needing initializing. That said, no other ABS or engine lights and speedo worked fine. I took it for the same drive and had no other errors at all. I was able to drive fully up to speed and brake hard with no ABS lights, system faults, check engine lights, etc. I could "live" with this, but I'd really like to fix it and I am at the point where I think I may have a faulty 2009 PSM module.

My question for everyone is, have you seen any issues like this in a non-swapped car? Does my thinking seem plausible? Can anyone think of any other differences that could be causing my issues?

The only other thing I need to test is the air conditioner, but I'll need to do that once I get it filled with refrigerant again.

Cemlo

I'd be thinking the same thing, faultly PSM module, only because of the results you got with the old one back in, gl as these kind of issue can be a PITA. The lesson I learned from my BMW, after spending 6 mnths diagnosing all sort of of noncensical issues turned out to be the GM5 unit, I'm not as clear on the 987 electrics yet but from your description unless theres another central module that talks to those systems then it can only be the PSM?

blackknight530i

From what I've gathered, most of the modules in the Porsche system communicate via two CAN busses, CAN Drive and CAN Comfort. The CAN Drive circuit handles the engine, transmission (automatic variants), and PSM/steering angle sensor. The CAN Comfort is the climate controls, navigation system, park assist, etc. Both busses go through a CAN Gateway module, which is mounted under the cowl on the driver side. I am still using the CAN gateway original to the car, which could also be an issue, but it does let me code it to be a 2009, so I'm not sure if that's necessarily it. If it is, I do have the CAN gateway from the 2009 car I can try. Since this does appear to be a CAN issue, there's a possibility, but the fact that it works fine up to a point is what's weird.

I did just order a used PSM unit from Ebay, so we'll see if it fixes the issues I'm having, then try the gateway if it still doesn't fix it.

blackknight530i

Well, I have excellent news everyone! I swapped the gateway module and programmed it to the car and it seems to have fixed all of the remaining codes and issues. The 2009 PSM module is fine, even with the original 2006 hydraulic unit. I even noticed that even though Sport mode would turn on before, it didn't seem to really change the throttle response before. Now, it makes a big difference.

So, to break down what I needed to swap over from the old car:

Engine
Exhaust
Transmission and transmission mounts
Axles
Clutch and Power Steering lines all the way from the engine to the respective units
DME with bracket to mount it
Underbody tray and the mounts on the reinforcement bars for just the engine (middle undertrays can stay original)
Instrument Cluster
PSM module
Rate of Turn sensor
Gateway module
Parking brake cables and tubes on firewall
Any non-engine related performance parts from your donor car

Coding that is required (Assumed you'll change the VIN in all modules you swap):

Gateway module - Have it read out the present modules and set it to the required installed list. This removes errors for things you may not have (eg. TPM, Dynamic Cornering Lights, Seat Memory, etc.). Also make sure it stays coded for a 2009+ model.
PAS - Read out the serial number from the Actual Values and write this to the DME
DME - Change immobilizer codes from the "Program Immobilizer Codes" section of the Maintenance Repairs section of the DFI DME
Instrument Cluster - In addition to programming the VIN, you can use an Xtool X100Pro2 (use that one specifically) to adjust the mileage to your current mileage
I believe that's all that was required.

Wiring changes are in the Excel file attached. This will require a lot of going through the wiring diagrams in PIWIS to understand how things are routed, but so long as you move or change the pins from the right column (2006 connectors) to the pin number on the left column (2009 connectors). There are quite a few wires on the old DME connectors that aren't used anymore and will need to be cut and capped off with heatshrink. I bought a label maker and heatshrink that can be printed on and used that to cap the wires so I know what they are in the future. You'll also need to add one wire on the instrument cluster that splits the oil temp/pressure sensor ground to two separate pins (just splice into the existing ground and put both wires into 27 and 28 on the connector. The other wire that changes is pin 22 goes to pin 11 on the cluster.

For wiring, I bought the round pins from BMW that fit in the connectors we're using and bought the AMP/Tyco tool 47566, which does AWG 20-18, and was able to do pretty much all of the wires required, but there were a couple large 4mm^2 wires that would need a bigger crimper or you can use pliers if you want. The pins I bought were BMW part numbers 61131376202 and 61131376206. I got about 32 of the 202s and 5 of the 206s to have some extras. You will also want the de-pinning tool that I bought from Global Imports BMW in Atlanta, which is part number 83-30-0-495-385 (aka Release Tool 813010). This made removing the pins so easy and most I could just depin and move from one connector to another.

For the connectors, to remove the pins, you might need to remove the rear "guide" piece from the main housing. This can be a bit tricky, but look at the base of the guide for some tabs and start on the opposite end. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry one side's clips at a time, then go to the other side while trying to keep your first side pulled so it doesn't clip in again. Then you should be able to slide it out of the little tangs you saw initially and it should slide out over the wires. I did this for each, but I'm not sure they actually keep the pins held in, so you may be able to just use the de-pinning tool with those in place.

This is mostly documenting it for me personally, but is also for anyone else considering this swap in the future. I would like to eventually do a new thread with a true HowTo guide with pictures and more descriptions, but that can wait for a while. I want to enjoy the car for a bit. I'm hoping A/C will work properly as well, no codes shown for it, but I still need to get it refilled. Hopefully this week since it's getting warmer again.

uniquenamehere

That is awesome... great work!

blackknight530i

Thank you! I can't wait to start enjoying this car properly. Never really got a chance since buying it in September 2022.

reds89

@blackknight530i what are you using for PIWIS? Are you on PIWIS 2 or 3? I've been thinking about getting one. BTW congratulations on this, it's quite an accomplishment!

blackknight530i

I got a download of PIWIS 3 as a hard drive image and loaded it on my laptop and bought the clone cable from Aliexpress I think. It was pretty inexpensive, but took a bit of messing around with it to get it to work initially.

Thanks!!!

blackknight530i

So, last Thursday I drove the car to my company's dinner event and it drove there and back beautifully, about 30 miles or so roundtrip. Then, Friday morning, when I was on my way to work, I didn't get even 1 mile down the road and the dash lit up again, same issue with the PSM and causing system electrical fault, etc. I decided against driving it to work, let alone to Raleigh for the weekend. I had already ordered a used PSM module earlier in the week and it wasn't supposed to come in until Tuesday, but it ended up coming in Saturday instead. I got home last night and installed it this afternoon and so far, it seems to be back working, with no issues. I still can't figure out why it went such a long distance last week without issues, then was instantly repeatable again the next day, but this time, I haven't been able to get it to repeat the issue. So far, it's looking like it was a bad PSM module.

I also just ordered my new personalized plate. I was going for 987.1/2, but NC requires at least one letter, so I went with 987.1/2C. I think people who know the car will understand

jscott82

Wow, not sure how I missed this thread. Great work!

very timely, was just discussing with another spec cayman driver (also here in Charlotte) the viability of switching to the .2 motor for the class.

Thanks for posting such a detailed thread.

blackknight530i

Thank you!

Now that I've done it once, I think I feel pretty confident in what needs to be done on another one. Highly recommend having a donor car, but I think I could put together a full parts list for people that want to piece it together themselves. I think the donor car makes it more financially viable though since you can part out what isn't needed.

TX911

Congrats on this conversion and big thanks for sharing your learnings.

Any thoughts on how hard this would be swapping a DFI 3.4 etc into a 987.2 with a port -injection 2.9?

blackknight530i

Thank you!

While I haven't actually seen a 987.2 2.9 car in person, i would say it would be a good bit easier than my swap since the biggest hurdles i had to clear were the parking brake cables and my other modules being too old, both of which wouldn't be an issue for your car. Basically, the hardest thing for your car would be the wiring changes, which are pretty easy based on what I found. Also, you would be able to keep your shorter ratio 6-speed gearbox and clutch/flywheel since those already have the right bolt pattern for the 9a1.

if you want me to do the swap for you, I would consider it. Reach out to me privately if interested.

blackknight530i

Hey everyone, I'm running into another issue. I got the car filled with refrigerant for the A/C the other day, but we were unable to get the compressor to turn on to test it. I later came home and tested it by taking the wire that goes to the climate control unit and disconnecting it from the control unit and instead grounding it and the compressor came on and a/c is nice and cold. Unfortunately, the A/C off button does nothing and I'm not sure the compressor cycles this way. I know that in the 987.2, according to the wiring diagrams, that they got rid of the A/C relay and it is no longer triggered by the DME, but I can't figure out why the compressor won't work when wired the same way as the 987.2. I've checked the wire from the control unit and it seems to supply 12v no matter if the A/C off button is lit or not. Considering that it's a ground that makes the compressor actually turn on, I need to figure out which wire is correct. If anyone has any insight as to what wire is correct, I'm all ears.

I should also mention that I've tried both the 987.1 and 987.2 climate control modules and have tried both locations for the A/C compressor voltage wire (pin 16 on red connector for 987.1 and pin 14 of black connector on 987.2) and both do the same thing, output 12v.

Cemlo

I guess it's using the switched live method if theres a permenant 12v. It's common in extractor fans, lighting loops and still baffles me every time iI have to do it. Last example here is the best simplified version I could find - https://www.diynot.com/wiki/Electric...ircuit-layouts