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987 Forum Discussion about the Cayman/Boxster variants (2004-2012)
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My cayman is definitely bore scored, now what?

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Old 03-28-2024, 05:38 PM
  #16  
SlakkerRacingDev
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Since nearly every 987.1S engine we've seen have had spun rod bearings and damaged cranks, most of our customers have been opting to take them to a Hartech 987.1 - 4.1L that we've packaged for the US market. A Cayman with 385+ hp is a heck of a lot of fun. We are Hartech's authorized distributor for the US. We build Hartech engines using their parts, processes and cnc machine code in our engine machining, building and testing shop in Oklahoma City.

https://sr.dev/products/hartech-987-...n-full-rebuild
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Old 04-07-2024, 03:05 AM
  #17  
Jan K
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Maybe price is very different in US then in EU, but I think you are talking about where high budgets here!
Did rebuild my 987 myself under 3000$, and that included one new piston and 6 valves, IMS and gaskets.




On otro hand I now im just to swap in a 3.8ltr 997 engine and the budget is under 15.000$,
Thats material cost as I’m doing all mechanical manpower myself!

Last edited by Jan K; 04-07-2024 at 03:08 AM.
Old 04-07-2024, 08:11 AM
  #18  
old man neri
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Originally Posted by sasilverbullet
Over the years I've noticed that quite a bit of Porsche related items, repairs, parts, etc. are cheaper in the UK.
I live in Canada. It's been more economical for me to source Porsche parts from an online place in France than it is to source from the US especially with shipping. For all else....Rock Auto.
Old 04-08-2024, 05:21 PM
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Arione
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Originally Posted by Zepper
Really? You don't know what you'd own? How about a 987.2 with extra oil scavenge pumps, no IMS etc....... the price point of a 987.1 and 981.2...not even close there is like a $25k-$30k difference there. You could almost have 2 987.1s for the cost of a 981.2.
There is no such thing as a 981.2 unless you are referring to the GT4/Spyder. 981 was a one generation cycle from 13-16 with no facelift. 982 (718) is 17-2024. I think the only 982.2 would be the GTS4.0 vs the old 2.5 GTS
Old 04-08-2024, 05:27 PM
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Aussie skypig
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Originally Posted by Arione
There is no such thing as a 981.2 unless you are referring to the GT4/Spyder. 981 was a one generation cycle from 13-16 with no facelift. 982 (718) is 17-2024. I think the only 982.2 would be the GTS4.0 vs the old 2.5 GTS
Yeah it was a typo, as admitted 1 or 2 posts down.
I meant a 987.2

In many markets, the premium charged for a 987.2 would go a long way towards a new, re-engineered engine for a 987.1.
Old 04-09-2024, 09:32 PM
  #21  
blackknight530i
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OP, you can always go the route I did: https://rennlist.com/forums/987-foru...ld-thread.html. I just completed my swap and it's doing great. I had considered the $20k+ rebuild option and even bought the Jake Raby DVDs and books and was going to do it myself, other than having LN do the machine work, but then found I could get a front end wrecked 987.2 CS for about $12k and 73k miles (10k less than my car has) and swap the drivetrain in, then sell off the rest of the parts to recoup the cost.
Old 04-10-2024, 11:33 AM
  #22  
Zepper
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Originally Posted by blackknight530i
OP, you can always go the route I did: https://rennlist.com/forums/987-foru...ld-thread.html. I just completed my swap and it's doing great. I had considered the $20k+ rebuild option and even bought the Jake Raby DVDs and books and was going to do it myself, other than having LN do the machine work, but then found I could get a front end wrecked 987.2 CS for about $12k and 73k miles (10k less than my car has) and swap the drivetrain in, then sell off the rest of the parts to recoup the cost.
This is totally the way to do. Especially if your doner car is very clean inside and out or very dear/sentimental to you.

I was hit when stopped at an intersection in my 2011 Cayman S. It had the 6MT. I wanted to fix it, but the ins co ended up totalling it. The buy back was $15k, but i didn't have the time available (with a toddler, full time job, and house build project) to buy it back for part out. Though I am certain i could have easily profited on that buy back amount parting it out. The motor had 52k miles and no over revs. If i had bought the car i would probably try to sell the complete, perfect motor for like $12k. Thats what you should be on the look out for OP.
Old 04-10-2024, 09:21 PM
  #23  
Arione
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Originally Posted by Aussie skypig
Yeah it was a typo, as admitted 1 or 2 posts down.
I meant a 987.2

In many markets, the premium charged for a 987.2 would go a long way towards a new, re-engineered engine for a 987.1.
Ohhhh ok. Yeah I was considering engine replacement for my 05 987.1 S and my 06 997 C2. End of the day I just sold them both instead at 90k miles each. The plan was to drop 3.8L DFI motors into each, but it would have been more expensive than what I ended up doing. I didnt replace either one as I already had 5 P cars at the time. I sold the 955TT as well and ended up just keeping the 970.2 TSEx and the 981 spyder.
Old 04-14-2024, 12:29 PM
  #24  
Shark Attack
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Originally Posted by kbod
I got a 987 cayman s with like 160k miles on it a few years ago, It always had a pretty pronounced tick on cold start and maybe sometimes on warm start only on idle, rev and it instantly goes away. it progressively made that tick more often, and sometimes threw codes for the post cat o2 sensor. And gradually it started smoking on cold start and maybe even spitting a lil oil sometimes too on cold start, otherwise it drives great and makes power good and makes no noises on throttle or on warm idle and the oil smoke goes away after a few seconds of running. Here is the thing, there is all of 20 ways I can go about this issue, There are companies that affordably offer iron sleeves like LA sleeve that I have read about, this is a really cost effective way of dealing with the issue and If I attempt to rebuild the motor myself it would not be too expensive, there is also the LN engineering option which is pretty well documented with the nickies and how we can even increase the engines displacement to 3.8L which would be a nice little power upgrade to help justify tearing apart the engine. But Jake Raby wrote somewhere about how you really cant just increase the displacement of the motor and you need to port the heads and change cam timing along with some other wizardry. Here is the thing, I like the car, I like the car alot. It handles like a dream, has upgraded gt4 bumpers and brakes and the cool gt3 steering wheel and I really don't plan on ever selling the thing. But I do not have the time and or the space at this moment to just be ripping apart engines, I need to obviously put together the money to do this job and I am capable of doing the rebuild myself so I am not looking to spend more then 10,000$ on the complete engine build at the absolute most and It would be ideal to go the 3.8 route here to give the car some more pep for the money, my question is this, if I go the 3.8 route will I have issues smogging the car here in orange county California, what are my options for repairing the car and the most cost effective and logical strategy to go forward with here weather it is the Nickies or the metal sleeves, which I've heard pros and cons about both. and lastly and most importantly, can I still drive this car? obviously the motor is going to be rebuilt and given it is just chewing through some oil on cold start can I continue to drive the car normally with some thicker nice oil changes while I put together the space and money for this engine rebuild?
Ive done head gaskets and plenty of dirt bike engines and even a complete timing chain job on a boxster so these cars aren't too far fetched but this is still pretty new and some advice would really be appreciated.
thank you all,
now what? Bend over. They know they got you by the b*lls. Even a used 100k mile engine is 10k, a full rebuild is 10k plus. Any other engine other than the m97 is 1/2 the price. They all know they got you. The major players stack the cards. You're f****d. Plain and simple. You can either cry or save your sanity and just get out your wallet. LNE is who I would trust, but again they know they got you. And they got you right where they want you. Save your mental state and just get out your wallet
Old 04-15-2024, 08:44 AM
  #25  
desmotesta
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I dont exactly know who the "they" are in this situation. Anyone buying a pre-2009 987/997 should know Bore scoring is a "when" not "if" scenario.

My cayman has 170K now, has had all the signs and symptoms of bore-scoring since about 149K miles. Still only burns about 1/2 a qt of oil every 3K miles, occasionally blue smoke on start up and still runs like a champ.

Most of these cars will continue to run just fine as long as you dont continue to drive them like Chris Harris. I stopped driving it "hard" once I knew it was bore scorred ( no more red-lining, self imposed redline of 6K instead of 7k+). Unless someone has $20K+ to drop on a rebuild when most of these cars are barely worth that much, I say drive and enjoy until it actually blows up

Last edited by desmotesta; 04-15-2024 at 08:45 AM.
Old 04-15-2024, 05:22 PM
  #26  
iflyjetzzz
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NOW I remember why I stopped reading this forum.

As a 2007 Cayman S owner, ignorance is bliss. I probably won't be able to get decent sleep tonight, thinking about the oil consumption of my 136K mile motor which has lived its entire life in warm weather in the southern US.



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