Question about oil/brake fluid in an O8 CPO

[Dino944]

Hi Guys,

I'm seriously considering a CPO 2008 Boxster S. 2 Dealers have them, they are like brand new cars and each has about 110 miles. I asked about the need to change the oil or brake fluid since the cars will be approaching 2 years old. Both dealers told me there is nothing to do with the fluids for quite a while. One said if I felt better about changing the oil or anything to wait until I take the car out in the spring. I live in the north east, so I will probably drive the car a few times before it snows and then put it away until the spring. Does that sound reasonable or do I need to do it now?

Thanks in advance.

Best regards,
Dino

[Macster]

Originally Posted by Dino944

Hi Guys,

I'm seriously considering a CPO 2008 Boxster S. 2 Dealers have them, they are like brand new cars and each has about 110 miles. I asked about the need to change the oil or brake fluid since the cars will be approaching 2 years old. Both dealers told me there is nothing to do with the fluids for quite a while. One said if I felt better about changing the oil or anything to wait until I take the car out in the spring. I live in the north east, so I will probably drive the car a few times before it snows and then put it away until the spring. Does that sound reasonable or do I need to do it now?

Thanks in advance.

Best regards,
Dino

They are not brand new, but little used 2+ year old cars. Check build date on door tag. They may have been built in 2007 and could be 2+ years old.

I bought my 08 Cayman S in early April this year and just a few days after I bought it the service oil light warning appeared. I forget now when my Cayman S was built but I had the dealer's service department clear the service oil light warning but as I've posted before went ahead and changed the oil at 750 miles. Lots of trash/fine metal debris in the oil, as I expected, which is why I changed the oil early.

Had the car remained mine (instead of being totaled 25 days after I bought it) I would have had the brake fluid done at 2 years.

The cars you are looking at have likely sat out in the weather for months at a time. While outside every day they are also treated to a car wash by dealer staff to keep the car clean and free of dust and dirt.

While they have not been driven much, they have been subjected to the changes in humidity and temperature that cycle air in and out of the brake fluid reservoir. Surprisingly, based on my observation when bleeding brake fluid, while the fluid in the reservoir looks very fresh, the first couple of tablespoons of fluid that comes from the bleed screw looks like heck. Apparently the moisture seems to congregate in the fluid located in the calipers where of course it is out of sight. But exacting its relentless assault on the brake system.

I would advise you to as part of the purchase condition insist the dealer perform 1) brake fluid flush/bleed; 2) alignment.

My Cayman S's alignment was found to be out. The alignment does not have to be "right" from the factory. Generally a dealer will allow only a short window of "warranty" in alignment and steering issues (the dealer where I bought the Cayman told me it allowed only 90 days after purchase).

When service manager balked I told him to have the alignment checked. If the car proved to be properly aligned and in need of no adjustment I would pay for the alignment check, or the cost of a full alignment.

OTOH, if the car's alignment proved to be in need of adjustment he could do the alignment under the new car warranty at not cost to me.

The Cayman S alignment was free cause it was out enough to require adjustment.

Then after you put some miles on the car either do an oil/filter service or have one done. I would advise one between 500 to 1250 miles with my preference and based on my recent experience with my Cayman to have one done at 500 to 600 miles then again at 2000 miles. After the change at 2000 miles I would then advise another at 5000 miles (3000 miles later) and then you can follow any oi/filter change schedule you want within reason.

Also, since the cars have sat, A/C seals may have dried some. Be sure to run the A/C every so often to make sure it still works and if any seal has gone bad to identify this condition early and have it taken care of.

While either these two cars can represent good value for essentially what is a "new" car they are not new and can have some issues associated with their age. Not major issues but issues that you want to be aware of and have addressed under the new car warranty.

Sincerely,

Macster.

[Dino944]

Originally Posted by Macster

They are not brand new, but little used 2+ year old cars. Check build date on door tag. They may have been built in 2007 and could be 2+ years old.

I bought my 08 Cayman S in early April this year and just a few days after I bought it the service oil light warning appeared. I forget now when my Cayman S was built but I had the dealer's service department clear the service oil light warning but as I've posted before went ahead and changed the oil at 750 miles. Lots of trash/fine metal debris in the oil, as I expected, which is why I changed the oil early.

Had the car remained mine (instead of being totaled 25 days after I bought it) I would have had the brake fluid done at 2 years.

The cars you are looking at have likely sat out in the weather for months at a time. While outside every day they are also treated to a car wash by dealer staff to keep the car clean and free of dust and dirt.

While they have not been driven much, they have been subjected to the changes in humidity and temperature that cycle air in and out of the brake fluid reservoir. Surprisingly, based on my observation when bleeding brake fluid, while the fluid in the reservoir looks very fresh, the first couple of tablespoons of fluid that comes from the bleed screw looks like heck. Apparently the moisture seems to congregate in the fluid located in the calipers where of course it is out of sight. But exacting its relentless assault on the brake system.

I would advise you to as part of the purchase condition insist the dealer perform 1) brake fluid flush/bleed; 2) alignment.

My Cayman S's alignment was found to be out. The alignment does not have to be "right" from the factory. Generally a dealer will allow only a short window of "warranty" in alignment and steering issues (the dealer where I bought the Cayman told me it allowed only 90 days after purchase).

When service manager balked I told him to have the alignment checked. If the car proved to be properly aligned and in need of no adjustment I would pay for the alignment check, or the cost of a full alignment.

OTOH, if the car's alignment proved to be in need of adjustment he could do the alignment under the new car warranty at not cost to me.

The Cayman S alignment was free cause it was out enough to require adjustment.

Then after you put some miles on the car either do an oil/filter service or have one done. I would advise one between 500 to 1250 miles with my preference and based on my recent experience with my Cayman to have one done at 500 to 600 miles then again at 2000 miles. After the change at 2000 miles I would then advise another at 5000 miles (3000 miles later) and then you can follow any oi/filter change schedule you want within reason.

Also, since the cars have sat, A/C seals may have dried some. Be sure to run the A/C every so often to make sure it still works and if any seal has gone bad to identify this condition early and have it taken care of.

While either these two cars can represent good value for essentially what is a "new" car they are not new and can have some issues associated with their age. Not major issues but issues that you want to be aware of and have addressed under the new car warranty.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Hi Macster,

Thanks again for the excellent advice. I have already contacted the salesman based on your suggestions.

Thank you again, I really appreciate your in depth description of issues to look into.

Best regards,
Dino

[lithium1330]

I bought my '08S 2 months ago (with 40 miles)... drove it home and changed the fluid and oil @ 2000 miles. While the brake fluid looked clean, i saw a bit of gunk (literally) flushed out when i bled out the rear brakes. Plus, you should change the brake fluid every 2 yrs anyways. I changed the oil just before I took it out to the track (habit).

[RonCT]

Ditto what the other said, but with any purchase, everything is negotiable. Porsche says 2 years for brake fluid, so based on manufacture date, the car may or may not be "due" yet. Oil is probably not required, but in both cases I'd say "I'll buy the car, but give me a voucher for brake fluid and oil / filter change upon completion of the break-in period". Yes, you could make them change it now, but if the fluid doesn't need it for a couple months, break the car in, have them swap out all fluids, and then be in great shape for the next 2 years.

[Dino944]

Hi Guys,

Thank you again for all of your assistance, and I asked the dealer to check the build date on the car, I know they said it was delivered to them in Aug 08. I believe they are replacing a defective horn today and doing fluids.

I am hoping to pick it up this weekend. I know there is about a 2,000 mile break in period, and that I should it at various speeds. But is there an RPM range not to exceed until a certain mileage is reached?

Thanks again.
Best regards,
Dino

[Macster]

Originally Posted by Dino944

Hi Guys,

Thank you again for all of your assistance, and I asked the dealer to check the build date on the car, I know they said it was delivered to them in Aug 08. I believe they are replacing a defective horn today and doing fluids.

I am hoping to pick it up this weekend. I know there is about a 2,000 mile break in period, and that I should it at various speeds. But is there an RPM range not to exceed until a certain mileage is reached?

Thanks again.
Best regards,
Dino

Break in guidelines covered in owners manual. IIRC 2000 miles, keep engine speed under 4200 rpm.

The usual cautions against heavy loads and too low engine speed (lugging) or too high engine speed with oil cold apply along with avoiding driving at steady engine speed for long periods of time.

You might consider bedding in the brake pads by taking car up to highway speed then applying the brakes hard -- but not hard enough to cause any tire squeal or ABS action -- slowing car to say 30 mph then releasing brake pedal and accelerating up to speed again and repeating the slowing process. Each time should feel the brakes bite a bit harder. When I did my Boxster brakes a month or so ago I found 3 of these all that was necessary.

Never ever allow the car to come to a complete stop while doing this until after you have driven the car long enough to ensure the brakes are cooled down after the series of stops.

Oh, before you do the above, check brake rotors to make sure all holes are clear/clean -- if the brake rotors are drilled of course.

If the holes are not clear -- and they may be partially filled with rust accumulated from the car sitting around so long between any driving -- clean the holes out then do the brake thing I described above.

Whether you do the brake bed in thing or not, whether you clean the holes are not (I did these for my Cayman and even for my used 03 Turbo -- its holes were filled with dust/stuff), there is a slight chance the brakes may not bed properly and possibly develop some kind of mild vibration under use.

This arises from the car sitting unused for long periods of time and the rotors developing rust build up. The rust build up can be uneven, with the rotor surfaces covered by the pads either developing more rust or or less rust.

Under light usage as these cars are moved around the lot or taken out for the infrequent test drive, this uneven rusting can result in uneven deposition of pad material to the rotor surface with the result the brakes pulse upon application.

Also, in real bad cases the inside surface of one or more rotors can really rust up to the point the one or more rotors will have to be replaced.

Ideally, you'd like to have all rotor surfaces inspected, each tire/wheel rotated by hand and view all the rotor surfaces, inside and outside of each rotor, for any signs of uneven discoloration which suggests uneven corrosion and possible leading to uneven braking action later on with use of the car and its brakes.

Also, this gives you and tech chance to spot any rotor that has suffered excessive rusting while the car has sat mostly unused.

Sincerely,

Macster.

[Dino944]

Hi Macster,

I knew I could count on you. Thanks for the break in period info and also the information on the brakes. You always have great advice!

Thank you again and best regards,
Dino