marcus1982

Hmm, what scenario of records would qualify for warranty denial? I mean in the diagnostic records. Also, I have a center bypass, is that smth I should worry about if the engine ff fails?

mredwin25

why deny it? They promote tracking also

itrsteve

Nope, I dumped mine off with a Sharkwerks on it and they put it back on.

Also they're not going to go out of their way to deny a claim, they get labor hours for the work. Not exactly a lucrative job for the real estate it eats up; however, it provides some good on the job, engine out training.

mredwin25

I’m dropping mine off with a full Akra

Turbodan

this is why I don't buy dealer demos.

garyklein911

When my 2015 GT3 had the high rpm failures, I ended up getting a new G6 engine after all the proper investigations were done, just in the last few months. I was there at the dealership going over the data as the tech was looking at it for the first time. Wow, it is amazing all the data that you see on gauges in the car is all there. It shows the temp outside and the engine temp, rpm's and every bit of data that the engine is using to run at its best. If Porsche was looking for things, we do wrong, it could find anytime that maybe we didn't totally warm up the engine totally, ran to redline a little too early in warmup time or anything else that may not be perfect. My experience was that they totally were looking for the problem that was a known defect and finding it and taking care of the defect=new G6 engine for me. I had my car "teched" at the Dealership every time before every track event I did. I talked about what modifications I could do to keep at the front of the Driver Instructions Group at HPDE events. They were not only aware of what I was doing with my GT3 but helped me go faster to enjoy my car. If you note, our Owner's Booklets in our GT3's have a separate booklet about taking our cars to the track. Enjoy our GT3's for what they were designed to do. Doing HPDE or any other track days do involve some risks that we need to be aware of and be able to deal with if things go wrong. I am having fun with my car, as I have for the last 30 years with the many cars I have tracked. Enjoy life!

Indyxc

Ow40, 5w40, or 5w50?

mredwin25

0w40

Indyxc

I'd run Mobil 5w40, or 5w50 with your replacement engine to make sure it last as long as possible.

garyklein911

I have only 220 miles on my G6 engine breaking it in so far. Weather and holidays get in the way. The G6 engine came from the factory with the oil in it already. I was there when the crate was opened and noted that oil was in it and that it was put on the Dyno before leaving the factory. All of care on my car has been done by the dealership (That takes care of Pikes Peak Hill Climb Porsches). I don't know what Mobil One oil is in it now, but are you suggesting using something different than what the Factory and dealership uses? If so, I don't know if you have already discussed this in this thread or others. I'm interested in what you are basing your recommendations on. I use my car mostly on the track and it is pushed to its limits. Thanks.

Maverick787

No you will be fine, the dealer installed my SW’s before new delivery and I traded it with SW’s and they sold it with SW’s.

Indyxc

Factory fill is 0W40, for a variety of reasons, at a compromise for wear. Since the car is tracked, and your engine is under warranty (I suspect), I'd run Mobil 1 5w40 Euro, or the 5w50 if you don't start it outside in cold temps.All 3 grades are factory grades.

The mobil 1 0w40 is not great for track use (or really street). It shears down to a 0w30 very quickly, and it's High Temp Shear Stregth drops. The reason is more friction modifiers are needed to span that grade vs. 5w40, or 5w50. It starts at a lower HTHS, and it drops faster than others. HTHS is one of the MOST mportant elements to keep the cam follower away from the cam.

I am currently running Mobil 1 FS X2 5w50. Plan to dry Mobil 1 Dexos R Supercar 5w50, or Motul 300V Competition 5w40 next.

I'd break that engine in (any way you like except high RPM runs),and change the oil between 500-1000 to get the sediment out. I was the lead manufacturing engineer for an engine program. Trust me when I tell you all engines leave with sediment in then, even Porsches. I benchmarked their engine wash systems (amoung others) in past roles at my current employeer.

This is a good read for everyone:
https://lnengineering.com/oil.html

garyklein911

I watched the short video. I did not read the whole article yet. Is this the guy who usually wears thick glasses in PCA videos? He is a very knowledgeable person, has been my impression. Does anyone know for sure what comes in my new G6 engine? It may be differ ent than usual “fill”. Porsche still covers my engine till 2-2025. I would like to know why they wouldn’t put the best oil in it for the initial dyno run and sending it to me from the factory to me in 2 days without the best oil? I am interested in facts.

Indyxc

Lake Speed Jr? Yeah, same guy.

Here is another good video with him:

He recomends Driven DT 5w40. It's a good oil, but expensive. I guess no more than Motul 300V Comptetition. It's on my radar. High moly and ZDDP, retains it's viscocity well.

In regards to factory fill. You have to remember Porsche Spec'd 0w40 across the entire lineup as the factory fill for 991s, the oil they certified the car with, including EPA fuel economy testing. They won't on paper ship it with a different oil.

74goldtarga

The Motul 300V 5W-40 is not A40 certified but Motul 8100 X-cess Gen2 5W-40 is - I know the 300V is a racing oil. I have used the Gen2 since it is A40 certified - was planning to do so at least until my engine is out of the 10 year warranty. But I am curious if the 300V offers better protection for a tracked car.

In my uneducated imagination the 300V has higher ZDDP levels and causes emission issues that prevents it from being certified. But I have no idea.