Jean

Hi Randy, haven’t been here in a long time.

It took me a while to figure out the GT2 and adapt my driving to it, much longer than expected, my lap times were slower than my 991Turbo when it was fully setup.

Chassis, it went on and off the alignment machine a dozen times, 9-10 different ride height iterations front and rear, corner balancing, bump and rebound settings, sway bars etc.

Aerodynamics, tested the Clubsport aerodynamic drag real life (CD:52!!), after modeling and simulations, I confirmed that the drag from the Clubsport rear wing was actually offsetting the benefit of added downforce in YAS Marina F1 and Bahrain F1.

I removed the Clubsport wing and back to stock wing at medium setting. I kept the Clubsport front underbody, and other parts on.

I also moved to stock wheels and Cup2R for the first time.. I finally got the car well setup and won my last time attack, improving my lap time by 3 secs! Car was considerably faster than the Manthey MRs on Cup2Rs. Could be I didn’t have the gut to push the car to the limit on slicks, now the car handles like a dream on track. In my opinion, if you have fast tracks, keep the car aero full stock (maybe just front underbody and rear diffusor mods), change suspension and slap Cup2R, you can beat the MRs.

One more pic, it was running very low.

nolimits

Lots in this thread too, "Tracking the Turbo" post 165 and much by others too. Tarett had all I needed, Elephant and others also. I wound up with camber at 3.5 front and 2.5 rear for R7s and SC2s...

https://rennlist.com/forums/991-turb...ck-car-17.html

nolimits

Been a while since I've been here, moved on to a GT2 RS Clubsport for the last year. Great car, took a good day to learn and adapt to since awd TTS. Cars are very well equipped full race, cage, fire suppression, halo seats, nets, 6 point belts, very adjustable suspension and aero. They are definitely everything you read about. Need to edit a good VBOX short video together and post sometime. Car goes like stink. Very pleased, cheers all.

Jean

Congrats on the CS Scott.. looks like you fully recovered! 💪

SamboTT@ByDesign

Hope all is well mate! I know you’ve been working hard.

nolimits

Jean sounds like your project has come together well and you've really got it dialed in, nice job !

All good here, just unusually wet in NW if I'm allowed to to say that, looking forward to some dry days, ha.

js9527

Base car: 2017 991.2 TT, centerlock, aerokit, sunroof, no pdcc
Interior: Recaro Profi SPG driver only, Sparco 6 point harness with hans, FVD harness bar
Exterior: Rennline grills and tow hook, gt2rs side rocker panel, AWE wind deflectors, clear side marker and ppf
Wheels: HRE R101LW(20x9.5 et50, 20x12 et45) in brushed dark clear, custom 20 inch 'cup' style wheels(20x9 et45, 20x11.5 et50)
Tires: 245/305 ar1, 265(n2)/325(m0) cup2, 255/315(k1) cup2r, 245/305 and 255/315 Trofeo R, 245/295 PA4
Suspension: B16 with axle lift, DSC v3, Tarett cs camber plate, Tarett swaybar links, RSS front lca with non-adjustable pucks, E-motion tension arm, RSS tie rod, Elephant Racing rear wishbone. ER bushings in rear lower shock, rear wheel carrier, rear lower trailing arm. Next is gt3 sway bar, two RS rear upper arms and RWS inner bushing.
Alignment: camber:-2.8F, -2.3R, caster: 9.2, Toe per side: -0.05F, 0.18R.
Brakes: Tarett studs is a must!!!(Both my front caliper fell off, steel bolt vs aluminum coil). FCP combo(sebro rotor + ds2500). Brembo type III + pagid yellow. High friction pads: Ferodo DS3.12, endless ms35. OEM for winter.
Engine: Bydesign 68 VTG with inlet hose, full SS Kline(catless 70/76), CSF intercoolers, Do88 ypipe and plenum, stock air filter. Running 22 psi of boost on pump gas, detuned for circults. Stock turbo failed(driver side) after many track days, lol.
Drivetrain: Cobb pdk high torque map

Love Sam's tune and he keeps optimizing.

nolimits

Dodson clutch paks or keeping it below those power levels?

SamboTT@ByDesign

Nice my friend!

sig

I’m finding that my favorite thing to do in my TTS is track it. I often get told at DE events that I should buy a track focused car like at GT3 or GT4. Can anyone give me some good advice on this topic to help me make a decision to either switch cars, or modify my TTS to make it more track focused?

Randyc151

I'd suggest you start at the beginning of this thread. The TTS is faster than any GT4 or GT3 on track, and can run right along with any GT3RS on track. You give up a couple of hundred pounds, but you pick up HP and especially torque. I also found the AWD to be a huge advantage with all of that power. If anybody tells you that you need a GT car for track, they honestly don't know what they are talking about. If you want the quickest path to a trackable car, but on big Cup2 tires, rotors/pads/fluid, half cage/harnesses, and cut weight by removing all of the accessories and nonsense from the car and put in a lightweight battery. You can read all of the tweaks in this thread. Bottom line, there is not a thing wrong with your car, unless you don't like to go fast. Road Atlanta is a great car for the TTS!

sig

Thanks Randy! I’ve read all of the posts and I’m excited to get started on this path. I just wanted to hear if guys did all these mods and still decided to switch track cars for some reason or another.

Big thanks to you and all the other posters here who have provided some great info to help me get started on making my TTS a more trackable car.

moto_geek

Randy summarized it well. I just did my first 4 track days with PCA driver education at local track and the High Plains Colorado track in my 991.1 TTS in stock form. Was a blast but also learn a lot about tracking in the last month as my car will only see probably 3-4 track events a summer and then be enjoy on the street. If I was to practice more on open lapping days and attend say 8+ track events, this is when I will be taking that leap for track car. Was surprise how much rubber marks and rubber debris in the wheels after a weekend. So consider full car PPF as well. Mine is just front right now and makes big difference to protect the front. I will go full PPF on all my new cars. Doing your own work I'm finding out is a big savings and if you need to do work to your car, a service appoint might not be available so could to have the knowledge /tools to do yourself if needed.

Here is the path I'm taking.. For best bang for my buck. What I learn from driving and from my instructors was the TTS really is a track car and very capable in stock form.

As Novice Track Driver:
- Invest in affordable steel rotors (Girodisc A1/A2 -156 and pads) Take off the PCCB's, hang them on the wall to appreciate/sell with car at some point.
- Use up the Pirellis and go with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S if your a novice at track, instructors did not recommend jumping up to the track tires right away.
- Front radiator grill/rock protectors.

Do my own brake flush/bleeds and pads to save on cost and personally inspect my cars equipment.
Keep in mind tracking car, tools get expensive, I spent torque wrench appx. $650 for center lock nut and quickjack about $2500.

As Intermediate,
- Separate wheels with sticky track tires, probably a Cobb tuner to adjust HP and Torque..
That really all I'm going to do for the next 1-2 years..

Track car is a slippery slope.. But this is going to be highly base on a person budget capabilities.

pfbz

Glad you got it out to the track and had a good time!

Agree with most of the above... Sock Pirellis suck, 4S are decent enough until they aren't, quckjacks and a torque tool (I use a 3X torque multiplier instead of a 6' long torque wrench), flush your fluid (I like SRF).

Don't agree on the need to replace the PCCB's with steel, especially at the novice level with only a handful of track days a year. YES, care must be taken to ensure you don't trash your expensive rotors, primary by doing an early pad replacement when the pccb pads get down to about 5mm... But my Turbo S is at ~65K miles, still running original pads, at least a half dozen track days in the past two years, rotors are perfect and pads are STILL at 6mmm (about 10-11mm when new). The PCCB braking performance is phenomenal and I see no reason to give it up with limited track days on street tires.

If you are running super competitive lap times, late braking at the limit, running track tires, and getting out to the track say 10+ times a year, then steel rotors begin to absolutely make sense.

All IMHO of course...

Three 991 Turbo S's (all on PCCB's), Cayman S, two 355's and a 458 Speciale at our last private track day last week...

Bluemax2

I'm glad to see others out there tracking there TTS. It's a quite capable platform. I started tracking my car last year. Done four different events with the Porsche club and a few Autocross events and have done two NASA events. I agree with pfbz about your PCCB's. I believe alot of opinions about them come from the first gen of PCCB's. Personally I'm a Intermediate at the moment and have spoke to alot of people on both camps about the rotors. The consensus from advance to other intermediates are just change the pads when you get to 5-6mm and they will last. I have flushed my brake system with SRF it's my favorite also. Otherwise I'm running the Michelin SP2's Which seems to last alot longer than what most people think. Just go out and have fun and do the basic maintenance and keep on eye the pads.