chris2

Here's a very quick and dirty guide on how to go from Xenon headlights to LED headlights. I've done this on my own car already, so if anyone has any questions feel free to ask in the comments.

PDLS Plus Retrofit - Required parts

• 7PP.907.357 Beam Leveling Adjustment Module
• 2x - 7PP.941.329 LED Controller
• 2x - 7PP.941.572.BB, 7PP.941.572.B, or 7PP.941.572.A LED Power Supply
• 7PP.980.653 Camera *
• 991.555.715.00 Camera Glass Defroster *
• 991.555.625.01 Camera Mount, Windshield (Incl. w/ windscreen) *
• 991.541.911.15 Windshield, Camera Mount, Tinted Upper *
• LED Headlights (Part numbers vary)

* = optional for automatic high beams. You do not need these parts for LED lights, but you will get an error in the instrument cluster telling you that high beam assist is unavaialble.

Connectors/Wiring:

• 185879-2 or 7M3-972-726-A - Connector for AFS Module 26 Pin Blue
• 8D0-972-623-A - Connector for Camera Heater Module
• 2x 1J0-973-735-A (or 2x TE# 493577-2, 20 terminals TE# 1241872-1, 20 wire seals 828904-2) - Connector for LED Headlamps
• 1534096-1 - MQS (Micro Quadlock System) Connector Housing, 6x2 for Camera Module.
• 1534100-1 - MQS Connector Plug, 6x2, for Camera Module
• 144969-1 - MQS Terminals, Tin Plated, 20pcs roughly.

Other:

• Fabric Wiring Loom Tape
• Silicon RTV Sealant
• Extraction tool for headlight JPT connector (1-1579007-6) or suitably long and narrow tweezers, bent inward at the tips (Hakko CHP 3-SA).
• Wire Taps, 18-22AWG
• Wire: Twisted pair for canbus
• Ratcheting crimp tool for 16-20 gauge wiring

Removing headlights:

• 991.2 owners - You need to remove the front bumper to remove your headlights, there are then 2 10mm bolts that must be loosened from the frame beneath the lights.
• 991.1 owners - Headlights are removed through the frunk with the included tool. Open the vertical flap on either side of the frunk, behind fix-a-flat kit and toolkit. Stick the end of the tool until it mates with the screw on the other end. Rotate tool about 180 degrees, or until the headlight pops forward. Refer to owner's manual for detail.

Wiring:

1. Re-Pin old 14-pin headlight connector to new 10-pin connector.
   1. Start by transferring all of the wires from your old 14 pin connector. Repeat this procedure one by one for each connection to better keep track of the wires.
   2. To do this, first move the connector into the open position by pushing the pink part of the connector against the directional arrow, you will hear a click.
   3. Then take your removal tool and insert it into the connector housing above and below the terminals.
   4. Simultaneously squeeze the tool together and pull the wire back out of the connector housing. You can also use the official TE extractor tool 1-1579007-6
      1. See instruction sheet from TE for more detail https://www.te.com/commerce/Document...%7F1-1579007-6
   5. Once you have pushed all wires out of the old connector, you may discard it.
   6. You will install all wires to 10 pin connector except for orange + brown, orange + blue and the white w/ black stripe wire according to diagram.
2. Route can crash low + high wires from passenger side headlight to frunk for connection to leveling module. These are the orange + blue and orange + brown wires.
   1. I would advise against splicing and actually pull the cable out of the harness and back into the frunk area. I was able to do this by grasping the wires from underneath the tire compressor with pliers and a microfiber cloth and gently pulling backwards.
   2. Find the rubber wire grommet in the top left of the frunk, it is behind a plastic cover. Punch a small hole through here to snake wires through.
   3. Snake wires through the rubber grommet in the top left area of your frunk.
   4. Crimp the two can crash wires and insert into 26 way MQS socket for installation into leveling controller. See image for pin locations
3. Crimp new CAN connections for headlights
   1. Take two twisted pairs of wire, four wires total, and crimp them with MQS terminals. Install them into the appropriate connections on the leveling controller for headlight canbus. You can use old ethernet cable, but it may be too thin to adequately seal when installed in the headlight conectors. This is a low voltage/current line, so it doesn't matter electrically, but to obtain a proper seal, you should only use 18 gauge or higher wire.
   2. Loom each pair of wire with fabric tape to protect it.
   3. Run new twisted pair wires to both headlights from frunk / leveling module. Route wire through existing plastic heatshrink on the headlight end to protect it.
   4. Crimp each wire with the sealed JTP connectors by stripping back wire jacket to expose a couple mm of copper wiring. Then insert the rubber seal over the wire jacket, and crimp with the front tab over the bare wire, and the rear tab over both the wire jacket and seal. The official TE crimp tool is extremely expensive, so you'll need to shop around and find a suitable generic ratcheting crimp tool
   5. Install newly crimped wires into the appropriate positions in the headlight connector.
4. Connect DRL
   1. The white + black (this is the thinner wire, white primary color with black stripe) is now unused, we will reuse this wire for DRL connection.
   2. Cut the white + black wire in a location where we have enough length to attach it to the DRL wire. In my case, I found the wire in the main harness by buzzing it out with a multimeter and then cutting it closer to the frame rails. Plug one end of the wire and tape it back to the main harness, as it is unneeded.
   3. Remove and disconnect the bumper wiring harness, which is located at the inside rear edge of headlight under tray. Use a flat head screwdriver to release clips and unmount connector from frame for better access. See photos.
      1. 
      2. 
   4. You have two options: run both the existing DRL and PDLS+ DRLs, or run just PDLS+ DRLs. PDLS+ DRL cut the DRL wire in step 5, otherwise leave the DRL wires connected in place and simply tap your new wire into this.
   5. Take the wire from pin 9 of the female (frame side) connector, this is the DRL line. Yellow + blue on the driver side and solid yellow on the passenger side.
   6. Connect the DRL line to the end of the white and black wire that runs to the headlight. You must splice/tap this with a waterproof terminal to prevent corrosion.
   7. Close headlight connector by pushing the pink locking tab in the direction of the arrow that is molded into the housing.
   8. Your headlight connectors should look like my photo. Close headlight connector by pushing the pink locking tab in the direction of the arrow that is molded into the housing.
      1. 
   9. Connect and install headlights. Don't worry if they don't work properly at this point, this is normal since they have not been adapted to your car yet.
5. Finish Leveling Module
   1. After connecting your three can lines (can crash, can private 1, can private 2) you just need to connect power
   2. Find an ignition switched 12v power source for "Term 15". If you have homelink, this is available in the wiring harness that runs on the lower right side of the interior of the frunk. This wire is the yellow w/ red stripe wire.
   3. To confirm you have the correct wire, pierce with a sharp multimeter probe and verify 12V with ignition on and 0v with ignition off.
   4. Crimp a cable with an MQS terminal, insert it into the Term 15 position listed in the image, and then use a wire tap to connect the wire to this yellow and red line.
      1. 
   5. Crimp a cable with an MQS terminal, insert it into position for "Term 31", then connect it to any grounding point. There is a suitable ground point directly below the leveling module's mounting location, you may need to remove the floor pan to access it.
   6. Mount the Leveling module to the left side of the frunk by securing it to the two studs that are welded to the frame
   7. Connect any axle sensor wires that your car may have. These would have been connected to the left headlight if used.
      1. 
   8. Insert MQS connector into the blue MQS housing, secure the wire to the edge of the housing by looming it with fabric tape.
   9. Install MQS connector into leveling module and use latch to secure.
   10. Once all required connections are run through the firewall wiring gasket, re-seal it with silicon RTV sealant.
       1. 
6. Connect Camera Module
   1. This requires a new windshield. Have the windshield installed first, since the required mounting bracket comes pre-installed with the glass.
   2. Tap ignition switched 12v (Term 15) and ground (Term 31) connections from mirror, install to appropriate locations in connector
   3. Wire the heater connections by cutting two wires approximately 4 inches in length, then crimping both ends with MQS terminals. Install to appropriate positions on the camera connector, then install the other end in to the 8D0-972-623 connector
   4. Tap (with twisted pair wiring) can crash low and can crash high from the can gateway. This is located in the driver's footwell above the OBDII connector, on the underside of the steering column. The required wires are orange + brown and orange + blue
   5. Loom wires with fabric tape.
   6. Route new can crash wire up the pillars and into the mirror assembly.
   7. Crimp can crash wires with MQS terminals and install to appropriate positions in camera connector.
   8. Mount heater and front camera module.
7. Code headlights.
   1. Open PIWIS II 991 Diagnostics
   2. Select "Can Gateway"
   3. Select "Maintenance / Repairs" tab -> "Actual / Specified Configuration"
   4. Click the "Accept New Configuration" button
   5. Go back to overview and select left and right headlights
   6. Select "Maintenance / Repairs" tab -> "Headlight Commissioning"
   7. Set headlight switch to parking lights
   8. Follow prompts and select "execute" for each operation.
   9. Programming is initiated for each module, wait for completion
   10. During this process, software and data records are updated by PIWIS, coding is generated and headlights are matched to your VIN. You'll need to be in the car during this process as you will need to switch the ignition on and off
   11. Restart car one final time, now you may test your headlights. If any codes are thrown in the cluster, or if something isn't working properly, go back and check DTCs and check your wiring.
   12. Enjoy!
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Jack F

Wow! Just wow.

Bob Z.

To say the least. Word to the wise - buy car with them already installed!

chris2

Nonsense. This is much more rewarding than ticking a box on an order form

Watson

Chris2, that’s amazing! Thank you a lot!

Bob Z.

Great job Chris, but that is a lot of work!

Jack F

What is the projected cost for this upgrade?

chris2

$3k was my cost with used parts. If you don't plan on using adaptive high beams, you can get it down to about $2k if you skip camera install and windshield replacement, but you'd have to be OK with a message being thrown in the cluster for the missing camera. You'd also be able to sell your xenons which should recoup about $500-$600

OliverK68

Threads like this one give people options when buying a pre-owned 991.

Nice work, Chris2!

vodkag

WOW very nice!

So the LED are also adaptive correct? (not adaptive high beam, but adaptive as it will follow steering turn input)

chris2

Yes, they are adaptive just like regular PDLS

victorc31

This is great! I have bi-xenon with pdls on a 16 tt. Do I need the new windshield and camera or does the existing pdls provide that? And if existing pdls is good can the new wiring provide the pdls+ auto high beam? I’d want to avoid warning lights on the dash. Thanks!

nolan12

Good job on figuring it all out! Wish it was a simpler adaptation.

PTS-BRG

From the day I received my car I wished I had ordered LED's. I bought the Vinyl ring to cover the silver with dark Grey and I waited for the day someone could figure out how to retrofit them into my xeon car.
Now that I see what it entails, I just can't do it. Forgetting the cost of the new lights, its the labor, the coding, the parts list.. I am going a different direction..

I changed out my factory bulbs for the OSRAM bulbs mentioned in another thread. The "Yellow" headlamp is now as white as an LED. I'v got the black ring, the white light, and I am as close as I can get to the LED's.

Cost was $140 for the bulbs and $140 for the shop labor. $280 all in.. Can't beat that.

chris2

Yeah you would need a new windshield and camera. Wish there was a way around it, but you will get the warning light if you don’t do the full install