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WARNING: Some BS follows. I was out in Riverside, CA, and spotted the Porsche of Riverside sign, right off the 91 freeway. This dealer supports PCA in a big way, and I have heard good things about the dealership, so I had to visit. I parked my car, as luck would have it, in the area where their used cars are parked. END of BS.
The real story, out here the weather has been miserable, I am in San Diego, so relatively speaking. Staying inside and amusing myself, what better to do than "surf" https://finder.porsche.com, the Porsche Dealer site listing used cars for sale close to the viewers ZIP Code. Within few "clicks", a 2015 Porsche GTS, white (See pic below with the Dealer plates), pops up. In the back of my mind, since an eventful date in 2015 when I saw my first 2015 Porsche 991.1 GTS on the. streets of Manhattan. Damn! What an incredible cars (See pic below)\....skip forward about 4 years when its clone pops up in my home town. It was $90,000 + $6,975 in CA sales tax and about $800 CA registration, bringing the cost to $97,775. At the time I had a 2004 GTS which I might have gotten $75,000 for and considering I had $$$ invested in that car to make it track worth: GIRO discs, 1/2 cage, Euro GT3 seats, 2nd set of wheels, etc. The possibility of getting top $$$ for my 2004 GTS with these track mods was nil...I had "painted myself into the corner" when it came time to sell this car. It would have to be converted back to stock, and he parts sold off, which I did eventually, but not this time. Bottom line I was going to gave to come up with $30,000, perhaps more for the upgrade. I wasn't able to sell that story around the house and I would have to pass on the 2015 .
The story continues with the most recent Riverside Porsche 2015 991.1 GTS: It has all the bells and whistles that were available on the 991.1 GTS, except the Aero Package, and thankfully lacking center lock wheels. It has as I recall, 30,000 miles, is a CPO car and was priced a wee bit over $100,000. I spoke the Dealer's Brand Ambassador, John Beech and the Dealership Manager. I was really tempted to try to work a deal trading in my 2017 991.2 GTS. Was this madness? Looking back, it was a little bit crazy. I have only had my 2017 991.2 GTS since December of 2021, now with 25,000 miles, it would be tough to part with this gem, except for those cursed center lock wheels, am I repeating myself here? . Porsche Riverside was willing to give me good money for my car, but bottom line I was going to have to come up with about $15,000 including CA sales tax tax of 7.75%, and about $1,000 in CA registration fees.
Over the last 16 months, I have have grown really fond of my 991.2 GTS and its abundant torque delivery across a broad band, and love the standard accoutrements found on the 991.2 GTS car. Even if I could have made a $0 cost swap, it was not going to be easy giving up the 991.2 GTS which I have bonded with, in spite of those cursed center lock wheels. And so I went on my way, thanking John Beach at Riverside (CA) Porsche and his boss for their time.
For those interested in a CPO 991.1 GTS car, check this car out. To view the first 991.1 GTS I saw in Manhattan, see the Attached File below. [img]blob:https://rennlist.com/030fac1d-2805-418b-9a38-2cd78f7de055[/img]
Wait, what? You wanted to trade a 991.2 GTS for a 991.1 GTS (2 years older and with more miles) because you have center lock wheels?
I was just "tire kicking", filling up a slow day with a trip to see a Porsche of historical interest to me. If I could have done an even trade, would I have been willing to give up
the 405 lb.-ft. @2150 to 5000 RPM and the creature comforts found on the 991.2 and later cars? I don't think so. And the center locks, I share a RENNtorq device with a fellow 991.2 GTS owner. It's no so bad now.
I have stopped bitching about Center Locks as of....
..a few hours ago. And as pointed out, "but all the cool cars have the CL wheels! GT cars, Turbo Models and GTS models".
Swapping out center locks is complex compared to 5 lug, as most know. You need:
Aluminum paste,
A 40" or > breaker bar, greater than 443 ft.-in. to break loose,
A 40" or > torque wrench, 443 ft.-lb. to torque down.
A helper helps with the front wheels,
I budget about 4 Hrs. to swap a set of wheels out, working solo. Keeping the front wheels straight when the wheels are off the ground and you are applying > 443 ft.-lb. to break them loose,
At least 2 Jack Point jack stands, 4 would be ideal. These provide the greatest safety compared to a conventional jack stand.
UNTIL a few months ago when I went in on a RENNtorq $2,350 with a DIY pal. This simplifies the process, allowing you to dispense with***:
A 40" or > breaker bar, greater than 443 ft.-in. to break loose,
A 40" or > torque wrench, 443 ft.-lb. to torque down.
Wtth RENNtorq here's how it goes:"A motorsport grade torque multiplier is used to convert 95 lb-ft of manual input torque to 443 lb-ft of output torque. The multiplier has a 1/2" drive input, and a 3/4" drive output which allows for a direct connection to the factory supplied socket. Each multiplier is tested and certified to a specific multiplication factor (range of 4.70:1 - 4.75:1) which allows you to precisely calculate the input torque required to secure the center lock nut. The custom reaction arm counteracts the torque applied to the nut by applying a counter force to the spoke of the wheel. The reaction arm is covered with a polymer material strong enough to apply the required force, but soft enough to eliminate any risk of wheel damage.
The system allows you to easily remove the center lock nut with just a conventional 20" long, 1/2" drive breaker bar/torque wrench with an amount of force similar to what is required to remove a lug on a car with a regular five lug bolt system. The RENNtorq tool requires only moderate pressure be applied to the brake pedal inside the car, meaning the car does NOT need to be running, and you do not require the assistance of a second person to either press the brake hard or hold the steering wheel steady."
***Don't throw away that monster breaker bar just yet. What whatever reason, in the car driving process, the center locks can get tighter that the Factory setting of 443 lb.-ft. of torque. The RENNtorq could be damaged if you apply X percentage over the 443 lb.-ft. If this were to happen, and yu have the 48" breaker bar, you'll be covered. I experienced this several times as did my fellow 991.2 GTS owner, noting our wheels were originally torques to Factor Specs.
..a few hours ago. And as pointed out, "but all the cool cars have the CL wheels! GT cars, Turbo Models and GTS models".
Swapping out center locks is complex compared to 5 lug, as most know. You need:
Aluminum paste,
A 40" or > breaker bar, greater than 443 ft.-in. to break loose,
A 40" or > torque wrench, 443 ft.-lb. to torque down.
A helper helps with the front wheels,
I budget about 4 Hrs. to swap a set of wheels out, working solo. Keeping the front wheels straight when the wheels are off the ground and you are applying > 443 ft.-lb. to break them loose,
At least 2 Jack Point jack stands, 4 would be ideal. These provide the greatest safety compared to a conventional jack stand.
UNTIL a few months ago when I went in on a RENNtorq $2,350 with a DIY pal. This simplifies the process, allowing you to dispense with***:
A 40" or > breaker bar, greater than 443 ft.-in. to break loose,
A 40" or > torque wrench, 443 ft.-lb. to torque down.
Wtth RENNtorq here's how it goes:"A motorsport grade torque multiplier is used to convert 95 lb-ft of manual input torque to 443 lb-ft of output torque. The multiplier has a 1/2" drive input, and a 3/4" drive output which allows for a direct connection to the factory supplied socket. Each multiplier is tested and certified to a specific multiplication factor (range of 4.70:1 - 4.75:1) which allows you to precisely calculate the input torque required to secure the center lock nut. The custom reaction arm counteracts the torque applied to the nut by applying a counter force to the spoke of the wheel. The reaction arm is covered with a polymer material strong enough to apply the required force, but soft enough to eliminate any risk of wheel damage.
The system allows you to easily remove the center lock nut with just a conventional 20" long, 1/2" drive breaker bar/torque wrench with an amount of force similar to what is required to remove a lug on a car with a regular five lug bolt system. The RENNtorq tool requires only moderate pressure be applied to the brake pedal inside the car, meaning the car does NOT need to be running, and you do not require the assistance of a second person to either press the brake hard or hold the steering wheel steady."
***Don't throw away that monster breaker bar just yet. What whatever reason, in the car driving process, the center locks can get tighter that the Factory setting of 443 lb.-ft. of torque. The RENNtorq could be damaged if you apply X percentage over the 443 lb.-ft. If this were to happen, and yu have the 48" breaker bar, you'll be covered. I experienced this several times as did my fellow 991.2 GTS owner, noting our wheels were originally torques to Factor Specs.
Ahh i see, yea takes me about 1 hour to change all 4 wheels out with no multiplier…and use costco quickjack….the paste can get messy if your not paying attention, I also use a centerlock wheel tool, i was lucky to pick up in wa, from a fellow PCA member for cheap.. never trust a multiplier to remove the wheel..definitely feels like im back on the farm again with those torque.
specs…
..a few hours ago. And as pointed out, "but all the cool cars have the CL wheels! GT cars, Turbo Models and GTS models".
Swapping out center locks is complex compared to 5 lug, as most know. You need:
Aluminum paste,
A 40" or > breaker bar, greater than 443 ft.-in. to break loose,
A 40" or > torque wrench, 443 ft.-lb. to torque down.
A helper helps with the front wheels,
I budget about 4 Hrs. to swap a set of wheels out, working solo. Keeping the front wheels straight when the wheels are off the ground and you are applying > 443 ft.-lb. to break them loose,
At least 2 Jack Point jack stands, 4 would be ideal. These provide the greatest safety compared to a conventional jack stand.
UNTIL a few months ago when I went in on a RENNtorq $2,350 with a DIY pal. This simplifies the process, allowing you to dispense with***:
A 40" or > breaker bar, greater than 443 ft.-in. to break loose,
A 40" or > torque wrench, 443 ft.-lb. to torque down.
Wtth RENNtorq here's how it goes:"A motorsport grade torque multiplier is used to convert 95 lb-ft of manual input torque to 443 lb-ft of output torque. The multiplier has a 1/2" drive input, and a 3/4" drive output which allows for a direct connection to the factory supplied socket. Each multiplier is tested and certified to a specific multiplication factor (range of 4.70:1 - 4.75:1) which allows you to precisely calculate the input torque required to secure the center lock nut. The custom reaction arm counteracts the torque applied to the nut by applying a counter force to the spoke of the wheel. The reaction arm is covered with a polymer material strong enough to apply the required force, but soft enough to eliminate any risk of wheel damage.
The system allows you to easily remove the center lock nut with just a conventional 20" long, 1/2" drive breaker bar/torque wrench with an amount of force similar to what is required to remove a lug on a car with a regular five lug bolt system. The RENNtorq tool requires only moderate pressure be applied to the brake pedal inside the car, meaning the car does NOT need to be running, and you do not require the assistance of a second person to either press the brake hard or hold the steering wheel steady."
***Don't throw away that monster breaker bar just yet. What whatever reason, in the car driving process, the center locks can get tighter that the Factory setting of 443 lb.-ft. of torque. The RENNtorq could be damaged if you apply X percentage over the 443 lb.-ft. If this were to happen, and yu have the 48" breaker bar, you'll be covered. I experienced this several times as did my fellow 991.2 GTS owner, noting our wheels were originally torques to Factor Specs.
Listen, I absolutely hate my CLs too, but its not that bad and doesn't require two people.
Get the 40" breaker bar, and get an inline digital torque reader so you can use the same bar to tighten as you do to loosen -- overall setup is $200
Get a large clamp to keep the brake pedal down so you wont need a second person ($20)
When tightening, make sure your bar is as parallel with the front wheels as possible -- if you arent, the wheels turn, but its not hard to stay straight and the wheels dont turn enough to impact your ability to remove/tighten
You dont need jack stands; you need one floor jack. Jack up at the rear wheel spot, and lift high enough that the front lifts too. Keep it suspended while you quickly swap wheels on that side, then do the other side
This takes 30-40 minutes total, including putting all the tools away. I do it every ~2 weeks before events.
430 hp, naturally aspirated, potentially higher future desirability; it’s not entirely crazy. FWIW I went the other way: 2014 991.1 C2 Cab to 2019 991.2 GTS Cab (with center locks). I have no regrets.
Good question. I've had CL wheels on a 997.2 GTS and my current 991.1 GTS. Never a problem. I do go to my Porsche dealer for tire work because I trust them not to damage my wheels and pay for them if they do. Plus, they match or beat Tirerack prices.
03-04-2023, 08:05 AM
991.1 GTS On the Dealer Lot
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. Porsche Riverside was willing to give me good money for my car, but bottom line I was going to have to come up with about $15,000 including CA sales tax tax of 7.75%, and about $1,000 in CA registration fees.
The Trade
