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So as you, my spoiler went out, car was throwing codes, tail light went out. I did determine the battery was bad and replaced it. Codes went away, spoiler does not work (nor the console switch with light for the spoiler and light was still out. Well, I put my rennlist hat on. The Indy was convinced the spoiler springs broke but could not explain why the console spoiler button stopped working (and light) and the taillight at the same time. Coincidence? I had a hard time with that. While the car is warming up I walk around do some touch up cleaning, so I know they were both working at the same time.
So tonight, I took the plunge a took the whole spoiler off and removed both taillights. Well, the Indy was right and both spring pockets in the drive unit for the active spoiler were broken. Swapped the taillights and the left that was working won't work on the right. Enter the flashlight. So, it seems a critter got into the car in the last few weeks, made a little nest and dined on my harness. So at least I know that am not totally stupid and I was right also. But, I need a drive unit for the spoiler or I can do the hack that is on the board, don't need a new taillight (yea) but now have harness issues for the active spoiler and the rear right light cable. I but need direction on two things:
After close inspection, only one wire for the spoiler and one wire for the rear light were cut, one other on the rear light needs some work, it is together but the copper is not 100%., I think I can make patch cable and reconnect them. What is your preferred method, pretty small for connectors, I am thinking solder?
The spring tension on the spoiler is severe, how did you that did the hack manage to put enough pressure on the spring to position it correctly?
Please chime in. Sucks this happened but at least now I know.
Last edited by 911dreamer!; 01-19-2024 at 05:22 AM.
It has eaten a lot of your braided protection so I would definitely replace if possible.
You'll need to feed the harness back through the firewall (via the rear shelving)
Get a plastic trim removal tool from Amazon.
Some trim removal steps shown here.
If you don't replace it you'll have to peel back the sheath to solder / heat shrink the broken wire(s), but ideally you should replace it.
You might find that it connects to an ECU behind the shelf, so replacement should be easy. Really can't remember.
Best to take it out and see what you're dealing with.
Load up your garage with rodent stations and use Bromethlin blocks. Just make sure you keep the baits IN the stations and your dog cant get them. I cant tell but if you have a refrigerator the rat is probably near by. Rats require daily water intake so any water sources will be utilized.
Load up your garage with rodent stations and use Bromethlin blocks. Just make sure you keep the baits IN the stations and your dog cant get them. I cant tell but if you have a refrigerator the rat is probably near by. Rats require daily water intake so any water sources will be utilized.
The freezer drip tray (for defrosting) is often a water source. Most 'frost free' units periodically use just enough heat to keep most of the ice from forming, and any water from that drains out to a pan under the fridge.
I vote for the hack.
Mine broke and I bought a new, $2500 at the time, drive unit and it was already starting to show stress cracks at the base of the spring tab. I did the bracket/rivet hack before I installed it. I think new ones are over $3000 now. Fix the old one.
when the drive unit is up the springs are looser.
Search there are multi page sagas here on Rennlist
01-19-2024, 01:00 AM
A rat ate my car.
