RennListUser01

Well, this seems silly ... but, given it's the first change and I bought it from a non-Porsche dealer, it might be forensically interesting.

The filter I removed (photo 1) is of South Korean manufacture, but no real part number. The center diameter is far larger than the center diameter of the Mahle OX 254D4 (other two photos) ... the extrusion at the bottom of the canister is the correct size for press fitting the oil filter onto - noting the smaller diameter, I oiled the bottom of the new Mahle filter and pressed it into place - it took a bit of force.

I've used canister type filters in several cars - most has a neoprene inner lip, but this one is just a tough fabric material.

Is this normal? (I dunno about the one the non-Porsche dealer put in)

Thanks!

DR911s

I frequently use the Mahle part number you identified on my 2017 C2S. It does take a good bit of force to push onto the base of the oil filter housing in the car. And it appears to be identical to the Porsche part that was installed at the dealership when I have had them do the oil service.

RennListUser01

DR911s,

Thanks - sounds like I'm good to button it back up, tomorrow!

It is still draining quite a bit ... two hours later! My previous cars were down to drips in 5 minutes.

WP0

Typically, you warm the engine a bit, but not too hot, so that the oil flows out in about 30 minutes…but not so hot that it burns you when it flows out. I think about 100 degrees Fahrenheit is enough.

DR911s

I let my car drain for at least a half hour, usually longer, e.g. have dinner, then resume the project. I've found that a little over 9 qts come out [with the onboard oil level gauge indicating nearly full prior to the change]. I lift the back wheels of my 2017 C2S and place them on 6" ramps for safety and access.

I've found that installation of the new filter even with a bit of fresh motor oil smeared on the end to be pushed onto the filter housing base sometimes requires more force than others, and have no explanation as to why that occurs.

I similarly wipe a bit of motor oil on the top end of the filter before reinstallation of the plastic end cap. If you haven't seated the filter onto the base in the oil filter housing, you'll struggle to get the cap on. [Guess how I learned that... ?]

I always reverse twist [counterclockwise] the plastic cap until I feel it "click" a bit thereby knowing that I have found the beginning of the threads, and thereafter gently rotate it clockwise to ensure I have started it correctly and not cross-threaded. It's possible to cross-thread it, but if that occurs, the required twisting force is noticeably higher and you should stop immediately and unscrew it and try again. Don't forget to renew the O-ring!

RennListUser01

Yep - ran it to 150 degrees on the gauge, then removed drain bolt, unscrewed filter cap (had a 36 mm socket), it was warm.

And new oring ... did same thing - oiled the end and pressed over the base extrusion.

CSK 911 C4S

In a pinch one time I purchased some CarQuest branded oil filters and some filters were actually Mahle and some were so off brand they looked like crap.

Took them back and opened a few boxes to find the Mahle ones they had.

Viper1000

I always drain mine cold this way the "dirt" has had time to settle in the pan. When warming it up it's circulating the dirty oil around the motor leaving it up inside....this being the main reason for draining cold. I'll let it drain fro about 30 minutes. These kind of discussions always lead to the rabbit hole but thats just what I've always done even in my race engines! As for the filter, yes they look different diameters but the new one has to be pushed on with some force for a tight seal.

rnl

I don't think there is an oil pan. It was always my understanding that the filter blocks the big chunks and the oil keeps the dirt in suspension thereby necessitating changing it at regular intervals.

Yes, this is a rabbit hole issue and I expect lots of responses.

Viper1000

Yes there is a "oil pan" on these cars and yes the oil does retain the dirt but thats why you want it to "settle" and not be splashed around the motor. It's not like it's a major problem and threads like this get people going that one way is better than the other......so at the end of the day, you will never get all the oil out of the motor, it's ok to only let drain for 20 minutes and NO it won't effect the cars performance in such a way that you feel like your losing power.....as I said its a rabbit hole with a capital R...lol

MikeL31

the newer mahle filters from the last couple years all seem to be a tighter snug fit. the older mahle filters prior to 3+ years ago, were much easier to seat. I noticed the current style takes alot of force to push and seat in the housing.

DR911s

My experience matches that of MikeL31! I very recently changed the motor oil in my 2017 C2S and the new filter required considerable force to mount, so much so that I feared I was going to crush it with my hand... but it didn't crush and did go on. And that was after wetting the fibrous material where the center of the filter cartridge seals agains the pipe nipple in the bottom of the filter housing.

RennListUser01

Thanks, All.

Finished up with the oil change - nothing else unusual.

Reinstalled plug with new crush washer and torqued (sometimes if I didn't get a new crush washer in the package, I'm a scofflaw and just sand and flip the old one over - in this case I had a new one), added 1/2 qt oil to the canister, replaced cap, torqued. Added to total of 7.5 qts. Fired up and checked with display - said safe and showed yellow. Shut down and added another qt. Fired up, but would not provide amount - have read some threads on this - still not sure why the system would not want you to know exactly how much oil is in the engine. Weird Porsche stuff, I guess.

Had checked the amount drained - it was almost exactly 9 quarts. My understanding is there is about 1.5-1.7 quarts between safe and max ... will watch and adjust later.

Thanks for your replies and assistance.