HkPlinker

During an oil change today, I managed to strip out the oil drain plug. I can hammer in the 8mm socket and it feels like it's gripping but I don't want to remove it without a new plug.
I have ordered a couple more from Pelican, but in your experience what is the best way to remove the stripped plug?
Let the engine and oil get to operation temp and hammer in a 9mm (one size up) Allen socket or maybe a Torx ?
after heat up, should I put additional heat (propane torch) to the plug?

Thank you, all.

D W

First thought would be to use an extractor bit:
If you really want to try hammering in a normal bit, perhaps start with a partial step up in size to 11/32" (if you can find one).

WP0

I don’t know how you managed to strip the ~8mm socket on the drain plug…were you using power tools?
Yeah, I would say just get an extractor bit…the torque on the drain plug isn’t very much…
hammering could damage “things”

HkPlinker

I agree. I had the 8mm hex, I thought, fully engaged in the socket, but nope. also, I always torque to 39lbs as in the service manual.
I'm ordering the extraction set as DW has suggested and I will allow the oil to reach Op temp, not just the "engine" temp.

Jack F

Pooo….You can get extractor socket or use a zip disc on Dremel or angle grinder and cut a slot or X for Philips. If you drain the current oil fully into clean container, you can let it fully drain and ensure there are no dribbles. And then install new drain plug. Unless you were planning on spinning that out and quickly putting in a new one. I’d go the full drain method. Cleaner and less likely to creat issues although will take a bit longer. Best to you!

SilverSFR

Time to buy a good new 8mm Allen socket. No more using the 8mm from the kit that came with the outdoor swing set. Really it is the soft aluminum drain plug Allen hole gets deformed from torquing and removing. Extractor set should fix you up.

Wayne Smith

Use a ***** punch and hammer to divit the outer edge of the plug just to the side of where you stripped it. Angle the punch and tap it to loosen the plug. From there it's easy.

Using this method you can loosen the plug as quick as you could if it weren't stripped and there's no danger of getting metal into the oil pan.

SinkRate

Doesn't help getting it out, but this situation is exactly why I ordered a spare drain plug before I ever did my first oil change. I took one look at that plug and knew it would be stupidly problematic if I ever stripped it. Haven't needed it, but I always feel better knowing it's on the shelf. I view it as cheap insurance.

Jim981CS

I find that a T50 Torx is a better/ tighter fit than a 8mm hex although both will typically work. The torx (gently hammered in) might bite in and avoid an extractor ​​​​​???
Jim

Wolpertinger

Maybe get an LN Engineering drain plug. Being stainless steel, you're much less likely to strip out the hex. Of course it's harder than aluminum, so if you overtighten it, the oil pan thread will strip first. I've had one for 4 years and never an issue. I like the magnetic tip. Very reassuring when it comes out clean as a whistle during an oil change.

WP0

@Wolpertinger In a somewhat related discussion:

Nein, Ich habe keinen Doppelkupplungsgetriebedrehmomentschlüssel , aber minden sie das die Rechtsschutzversicherungsgesellschaften sind ein absurdes Schneeballsystem

AdamSanta85

Funny, the LN plug used to be aluminum and stripped easier than the factory one. I threw it in the trash after a couple of uses.

dannyk304

I got the LN magnetic plug and it wouldn't seal perfectly - it would weep and the OEM was bone dry so I went back to OEM.

Eric Kessel

I’ve had good luck with tapping in a triple square bit and removing the aluminum drain plug. These tend to be available locally…..


-Eric

shyamvenky

I've been in the situation before where the PO (or maybe the Tech) rounded the drain plug.
I did go and buy an extractor set. Dealerships always have drain plugs in stock - so that'd be quicker than any online vendor - I now always keep a couple of them as spares.
Luckily, I was able to hammer the 8mm hex key deeper into the drain plug to get better engagement. That was enough to remove it without more damage.
My backup plan was to use the extractor. There are youtube videos to use this (James from AutoAmateur went through this for his 991 too).

The root cause almost always is either over-tightening or not inserting the 8mm key properly into the plug.
That said - aluminium plugs have 50% of the tightening torque of the steel plugs.
50 Nm for the steel plug vs 26 Nm for the aluminium (magnetic) plug.