Ultimate How-To - Elephant Racing 991 Street/Track Suspension Program
09-29-2014, 02:50 PM
#16
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
As the owner of this 991 I am happy to address any questions fellow Rennlist members have. The short story is it is exactly what I wanted. I debated ordering a GT3. They are awesome cars as we all know. But for me I wanted a backseat, didn't want the longer front facia and didn't want the attention the wing and 'bling' bring. So I went with a X51 package, no sunroof, deleted as many options as I could and then contacted Chuck and his team regarding how we could take my car to the next level. They came up with the strategy and its worked out really well. Here in Los Angeles the streets are known for being pretty bad. Even with these sometimes rough roads the car still isn't harsh while at the same time its a lot more involving to drive. I am not a suspension expert and so I let the Elephant work their magic on the car and I am 100 percent confident they can do the same for many others. A big thank you to Chuck and his team. I am really happy with my 991.
09-29-2014, 02:54 PM
#17
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Continuing on, here's how to remove rear shocks and convert them into coilovers.
Shock Removal
Start by unbolting the rear shock mounts. The top of the rear shocks is accessed through the rear seat area. To gain access, fold the rear seat backs down and pull up the carpet that lays vertically behind the seat backs. You have to give the carpet a good tug to get it out, but don't worry. There is no glue or fasteners holding the carpet in, it just pulls up.
With the carpet out of the way you will see a large Styrofoam filler piece. Remove this piece and you will see the top of the rear shocks.
Disconnect the PASM cable if the car is equipped with PASM shocks. The shock mount is held in by three nuts. Remove the three nuts with a 13mm socket wrench.
In order to gain access to the lower shock mount, the lower control arm needs to be disconnected.
To disconnect the lower control arm, loosen up the outer control arm bushing bolt. Hold one side with an 18mm wrench and loosen the other side with a 16mm socket and remove the bolt.
To gain more access, you may loosen the lower control arm eccentric adjuster nut with an 18mm socket or wrench and let the control arm hang loose. However, doing so will require alignment. If planning on replacing the lower control arm or changing out the bushings, the arm will need to be loosened and removed anyway. If removing the shock only, you may want to preserve the camber settings. In which case, carefully mark the position of the eccentric so you can restore the position.
Disconnect the lower S-shaped control arm. This needs to be disconnected in order to pull the wheel carrier forward to get the shock out. Use 21mm wrench and an 18mm socket to loosen and pull the bolt out.
Disconnect the shock by removing the lower shock mount bolt. Torx T55 bit or socket is required. Hold the bolt with the Torx and loose the hex nut with an adjustable wrench then remove the bolt.
Pull the wheel carrier forward and slide the shock off the mount. Pulling the wheel carrier forward is required or otherwise the sway bar will be in the way of the shock.
The shock should come out now. The shock needs to be rotated in the wheel well and face towards the front of the car. There should be enough clearance to navigate the shock out.
Shock Coilover Conversion
Now we can move on to the rear shock sleeve kit.
Remove the top shock mount by using a 19mm deep inset box wrench and a 9mm open end wrench to hold the rod in place.
Then remove the spring, boot and the lower spring perch and the rubber seal.
There are five grooves machined into the shock body. Move the snap ring to lowest position. Also apply two layers of duct tape or masking tape for tight sleeve fit.
Pull sleeve over and thread on the lower perch.
Insert the helper spring on top of the lower perch following with the spring divider. On top of the spring divider place the seat bearing sandwiched between two washers.
Insert the main spring and the upper shock mount and bump stop.
Just like before, reinstall the top shock mount using a 19mm deep inset box wrench and a 9mm open end wrench to hold the rod in place.
More to come very soon.
Thanks
Shock Removal
Start by unbolting the rear shock mounts. The top of the rear shocks is accessed through the rear seat area. To gain access, fold the rear seat backs down and pull up the carpet that lays vertically behind the seat backs. You have to give the carpet a good tug to get it out, but don't worry. There is no glue or fasteners holding the carpet in, it just pulls up.
With the carpet out of the way you will see a large Styrofoam filler piece. Remove this piece and you will see the top of the rear shocks.
Disconnect the PASM cable if the car is equipped with PASM shocks. The shock mount is held in by three nuts. Remove the three nuts with a 13mm socket wrench.
In order to gain access to the lower shock mount, the lower control arm needs to be disconnected.
To disconnect the lower control arm, loosen up the outer control arm bushing bolt. Hold one side with an 18mm wrench and loosen the other side with a 16mm socket and remove the bolt.
To gain more access, you may loosen the lower control arm eccentric adjuster nut with an 18mm socket or wrench and let the control arm hang loose. However, doing so will require alignment. If planning on replacing the lower control arm or changing out the bushings, the arm will need to be loosened and removed anyway. If removing the shock only, you may want to preserve the camber settings. In which case, carefully mark the position of the eccentric so you can restore the position.
Disconnect the lower S-shaped control arm. This needs to be disconnected in order to pull the wheel carrier forward to get the shock out. Use 21mm wrench and an 18mm socket to loosen and pull the bolt out.
Disconnect the shock by removing the lower shock mount bolt. Torx T55 bit or socket is required. Hold the bolt with the Torx and loose the hex nut with an adjustable wrench then remove the bolt.
Pull the wheel carrier forward and slide the shock off the mount. Pulling the wheel carrier forward is required or otherwise the sway bar will be in the way of the shock.
The shock should come out now. The shock needs to be rotated in the wheel well and face towards the front of the car. There should be enough clearance to navigate the shock out.
Shock Coilover Conversion
Now we can move on to the rear shock sleeve kit.
Remove the top shock mount by using a 19mm deep inset box wrench and a 9mm open end wrench to hold the rod in place.
Then remove the spring, boot and the lower spring perch and the rubber seal.
There are five grooves machined into the shock body. Move the snap ring to lowest position. Also apply two layers of duct tape or masking tape for tight sleeve fit.
Pull sleeve over and thread on the lower perch.
Insert the helper spring on top of the lower perch following with the spring divider. On top of the spring divider place the seat bearing sandwiched between two washers.
Insert the main spring and the upper shock mount and bump stop.
Just like before, reinstall the top shock mount using a 19mm deep inset box wrench and a 9mm open end wrench to hold the rod in place.
More to come very soon.
Thanks
09-29-2014, 04:27 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
I asked in your other thread but didn't see a response. What's the deal with the fixed slot adjustments on the rear? Any performance gains to be had playing with these stock or are they there for another reason?
09-30-2014, 08:26 PM
#20
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
The snap rings hold the lower perch. The ring can be raised or lowered adding a small amount or ride height adjustability and corner balancing. However, getting a corner balance right using the snap ring grooves may be a big pain.
09-30-2014, 08:32 PM
#21
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Upper Control Arm Removal
It’s best to re-bush each control arms in series. This way not all control arms are removed and the wheel carrier assembly is not left unsupported.
Let’s start with the upper control arms. If the lower control arms are disconnected, reconnect them for support. No need to torque them as we’ll be disconnecting them again.
In order to remove the toe link, and the diagonal upper control arm, the subframe needs to be pivoted out. This is because the bolts that secure these control arms extract towards the chassis such that inadequate clearance is available unless you pivot out the subframe.
Fortunately, it’s a relatively quick and simple job.
The subframe is held with 5 bolts as pointed above.
Also, just in case, remove the bracket that holds the evening sensor. It’s an M10 bolt.
Once all five bolts are removed, pull on the subframe so it drops about an inch. Then grab the toe link side and pivot the entire subframe outward using the inner bolt as a hinge.
Now there will be enough access to insert an 18mm wrench and a socket. Remove the bolts from both arms.
Using an 18mm socket, unthread the outer bolt.
The bolt threads directly into the wheel carrier.
Remove the bolt from the upper diagonal control arm as well.
Both of the arms are out and ready for new bushings.
________________________________________
Rebushing Process
The bushings are roughly 44.5mm in diameter. Using a shop press, place the control arm on a section of pipe with inside diameter slightly larger than 45mm. When pressing the bushings out, we want the bushing to ‘fall’ into the section of pipe.
The top pipe has outside diameter of less than 44mm. It will be used to press the bushing out. Make sure that it is resting only on the metal sleeve and not on the rubber.
Apply pressure.
The bushings should press out without too much resistance. Repeat the same procedure on the other side.
Before pressing the spherical bearings in, clean the control arm bushing contact surface with brake cleaner to remove any grease or dirt. Apply the provided loctite 680 to the inside surface of the control arm and the bearing outer housing. You need to fully coat both parts on the contact surfaces, being sure to distribute the loctite over the entire contact surface.
The same process but in reverse is used for pressing in the spherical bearings. Be sure you are pressing only on spherical bearing outer housing, and not the bearing center. Applying pressure to the bearing center can damage the bearing.
Make sure that the cylinder is only supported on the outer edge of the bearing and NOT on the spacer or the seal, as this can damage the bearing.
Pay careful attention to ensure the bearing is pressing in straight. If the bearing begins to get cocked to one side, you need to straighten it before proceeding or damage to the arm or bearing may result.
The bearings should press in with little hesitation or resistance. After pressing them in, insert a long bolt or screwdriver through the hole to act as a lever and pivot the bearings. You will feel some resistance but should be able to pivot the bearings with hand pressure using the added leverage of a typical screwdriver.
Repeat the same procedure for the diagonal upper control arm.
________________________________________
Upper Control Arm Installation
Reinstall the toe link.
We’ve decided to insert the bolts backwards. We’re not sure why Porsche decided to insert the bolts as they did, inserting them backwards resolves the clearance issues so the next time the arms need to be removed, the subframe will not need to be lowered.
Also reinstall the diagonal control arm and pivot the subframe back in place and bolt it back on.
Please note that the subframe fit is loose. It has about 3mm slop around the bolts and studs securing it. Be careful aligning the subframe and torquing to correct spec.
Now move on to the other upper outer control arm. This arm is fairly simple to remove, use 18mm socket as with the rest of the arms and repeat the same re-bushing process as described above.
Once the upper control arms are re-bushed and reinstalled. The lower control arms can be removed.
Reconnect the leveling sensor.
It’s best to re-bush each control arms in series. This way not all control arms are removed and the wheel carrier assembly is not left unsupported.
Let’s start with the upper control arms. If the lower control arms are disconnected, reconnect them for support. No need to torque them as we’ll be disconnecting them again.
In order to remove the toe link, and the diagonal upper control arm, the subframe needs to be pivoted out. This is because the bolts that secure these control arms extract towards the chassis such that inadequate clearance is available unless you pivot out the subframe.
Fortunately, it’s a relatively quick and simple job.
The subframe is held with 5 bolts as pointed above.
Also, just in case, remove the bracket that holds the evening sensor. It’s an M10 bolt.
Once all five bolts are removed, pull on the subframe so it drops about an inch. Then grab the toe link side and pivot the entire subframe outward using the inner bolt as a hinge.
Now there will be enough access to insert an 18mm wrench and a socket. Remove the bolts from both arms.
Using an 18mm socket, unthread the outer bolt.
The bolt threads directly into the wheel carrier.
Remove the bolt from the upper diagonal control arm as well.
Both of the arms are out and ready for new bushings.
________________________________________
Rebushing Process
The bushings are roughly 44.5mm in diameter. Using a shop press, place the control arm on a section of pipe with inside diameter slightly larger than 45mm. When pressing the bushings out, we want the bushing to ‘fall’ into the section of pipe.
The top pipe has outside diameter of less than 44mm. It will be used to press the bushing out. Make sure that it is resting only on the metal sleeve and not on the rubber.
Apply pressure.
The bushings should press out without too much resistance. Repeat the same procedure on the other side.
Before pressing the spherical bearings in, clean the control arm bushing contact surface with brake cleaner to remove any grease or dirt. Apply the provided loctite 680 to the inside surface of the control arm and the bearing outer housing. You need to fully coat both parts on the contact surfaces, being sure to distribute the loctite over the entire contact surface.
The same process but in reverse is used for pressing in the spherical bearings. Be sure you are pressing only on spherical bearing outer housing, and not the bearing center. Applying pressure to the bearing center can damage the bearing.
Make sure that the cylinder is only supported on the outer edge of the bearing and NOT on the spacer or the seal, as this can damage the bearing.
Pay careful attention to ensure the bearing is pressing in straight. If the bearing begins to get cocked to one side, you need to straighten it before proceeding or damage to the arm or bearing may result.
The bearings should press in with little hesitation or resistance. After pressing them in, insert a long bolt or screwdriver through the hole to act as a lever and pivot the bearings. You will feel some resistance but should be able to pivot the bearings with hand pressure using the added leverage of a typical screwdriver.
Repeat the same procedure for the diagonal upper control arm.
________________________________________
Upper Control Arm Installation
Reinstall the toe link.
We’ve decided to insert the bolts backwards. We’re not sure why Porsche decided to insert the bolts as they did, inserting them backwards resolves the clearance issues so the next time the arms need to be removed, the subframe will not need to be lowered.
Also reinstall the diagonal control arm and pivot the subframe back in place and bolt it back on.
Please note that the subframe fit is loose. It has about 3mm slop around the bolts and studs securing it. Be careful aligning the subframe and torquing to correct spec.
Now move on to the other upper outer control arm. This arm is fairly simple to remove, use 18mm socket as with the rest of the arms and repeat the same re-bushing process as described above.
Once the upper control arms are re-bushed and reinstalled. The lower control arms can be removed.
Reconnect the leveling sensor.
09-30-2014, 08:53 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Yes, the grooves in the shock body were what I was referring to. I agree trying to do any balancing would be a nightmare, I just thought there may be some chance the engineers at Porsche gave us the adjustability for some other performance reason like the reduced rake helps with brake balance/wear, or the lowered height helps in camber gain reduction, etc.
10-01-2014, 08:21 PM
#23
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Lower Control Arm Replacement
Now remove the S-shaped arm.
To remove the arm the entire inner support bracket needs to be removed with it as there is no clearance to fit a wrench. The black diagonal brace bar needs to be removed as well.
The diagonal brace is held with three bolts, an 18mm on each side and a torx 12 point m12 in the middle.
Remove all bolts and set the diagonal brace aside.
The bracket is held with three 16mm bolts. The brake line support also needs to be disconnected. It’s held with two star head bolts (green arrows).
There’s also an upper brake line support bracket that needs to be disconnected (red arrow) with a 10mm socket.
The entire assembly arm will come out. Now the bolts can be accessed.
Detach the control arm from mounting bracket using a 21mm socket and 18mm wrench. This bolt is pretty tight so it will take some force to loosen it up.
Once the arm is extracted, repeat the same re-bushing process as described above.
Attach the control arm back to the housing bracket using a 21mm wrench and 18mm socket, and reinstall bracket and control arm in reverse order.
Reinstall crossmember support.
________________________________________
Wheel Carrier Bushing Installation
Pressing out the wheel carrier bushings.
Normally the entire wheel carrier assembly would have to be removed in order to press out these bushings. However, we’ve devised a method which allows the bushings to be pressed out in place. Saving lots of time. We will soon offer for sale a tool that make it easy to remove and insert the bushing in situ. But you can also fabricate your own tool as shown here.
Press out wheel carrier bushing by using two cylinders; one with slightly smaller outside diameter than the bushing and the other slightly larger. Take two large washers or a metal plate with hole drilled, and sandwich the bushing. Insert the bolt through and thread it with a nut. Using two wrenches, crank on the bolt so that the bushing presses out into the larger OD cylinder.
The bushing should press out with ease.
The new bearing can be inserted in reverse order.
Clean the wheel carrier bore with brake clean to remove any grease. Then apply a coating of the loctite 680 to both surfaces and fully distribute over the contact area.
Press the bearing in with an installation tool that rests on the flange part of the bushing housing, but not on the rubber seal or the spacer, as this can damage the bearing. Be careful to align the bolt so the bushing presses in straight.
Now remove the S-shaped arm.
To remove the arm the entire inner support bracket needs to be removed with it as there is no clearance to fit a wrench. The black diagonal brace bar needs to be removed as well.
The diagonal brace is held with three bolts, an 18mm on each side and a torx 12 point m12 in the middle.
Remove all bolts and set the diagonal brace aside.
The bracket is held with three 16mm bolts. The brake line support also needs to be disconnected. It’s held with two star head bolts (green arrows).
There’s also an upper brake line support bracket that needs to be disconnected (red arrow) with a 10mm socket.
The entire assembly arm will come out. Now the bolts can be accessed.
Detach the control arm from mounting bracket using a 21mm socket and 18mm wrench. This bolt is pretty tight so it will take some force to loosen it up.
Once the arm is extracted, repeat the same re-bushing process as described above.
Attach the control arm back to the housing bracket using a 21mm wrench and 18mm socket, and reinstall bracket and control arm in reverse order.
Reinstall crossmember support.
________________________________________
Wheel Carrier Bushing Installation
Pressing out the wheel carrier bushings.
Normally the entire wheel carrier assembly would have to be removed in order to press out these bushings. However, we’ve devised a method which allows the bushings to be pressed out in place. Saving lots of time. We will soon offer for sale a tool that make it easy to remove and insert the bushing in situ. But you can also fabricate your own tool as shown here.
Press out wheel carrier bushing by using two cylinders; one with slightly smaller outside diameter than the bushing and the other slightly larger. Take two large washers or a metal plate with hole drilled, and sandwich the bushing. Insert the bolt through and thread it with a nut. Using two wrenches, crank on the bolt so that the bushing presses out into the larger OD cylinder.
The bushing should press out with ease.
The new bearing can be inserted in reverse order.
Clean the wheel carrier bore with brake clean to remove any grease. Then apply a coating of the loctite 680 to both surfaces and fully distribute over the contact area.
Press the bearing in with an installation tool that rests on the flange part of the bushing housing, but not on the rubber seal or the spacer, as this can damage the bearing. Be careful to align the bolt so the bushing presses in straight.
10-02-2014, 07:17 PM
#24
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Lower Wishbone Replacement
Once the bushing is pressed in, lower control arms can be reinstalled. On this car, we’re replacing the OEM arm with our adjustable control arm.
Push the heim joint side in first. It may be a tight fit but don’t be afraid to tap it into place using a rubber mallet.
Reinstall the eccentric bolt but not the outer bolt as the rear shock has not been installed yet.
Rear Shock Installation
With the rear assembly at full droop, navigate the rear shock onto the lower mounting bushing.
Bolt down and torque.
Re-attach the lower control arm and torque.
Raise the assembly so the upper shock mount bolts pass through the mounting holes, and torque them down from the inside of the car. Reattach the PASM cables.
Torque all bolts to specifications.
The job is almost done. Now the suspension will need to be realigned and corner balanced.
Once the bushing is pressed in, lower control arms can be reinstalled. On this car, we’re replacing the OEM arm with our adjustable control arm.
Push the heim joint side in first. It may be a tight fit but don’t be afraid to tap it into place using a rubber mallet.
Reinstall the eccentric bolt but not the outer bolt as the rear shock has not been installed yet.
Rear Shock Installation
With the rear assembly at full droop, navigate the rear shock onto the lower mounting bushing.
Bolt down and torque.
Re-attach the lower control arm and torque.
Raise the assembly so the upper shock mount bolts pass through the mounting holes, and torque them down from the inside of the car. Reattach the PASM cables.
Torque all bolts to specifications.
The job is almost done. Now the suspension will need to be realigned and corner balanced.
10-10-2014, 09:42 PM
#26
Former Vendor
Results
So what are the results? Stellar! The driver feels more connected to the road with more feedback and control. Noticeably firmer than stock, the car is in no way harsh. The spherical bearings deliver a comfortable ride and make no noise. There is slightly more audible road noise coupled into the chassis, but still the cabins is quieter than the GT3.
The height turned out great. You can see from the pictures, it's the same aggressive stance as the GT3.
The spring rates we chose worked well with the existing PASM system. 20% stiffer in front and 25% stiffer in rear was a good balance for sporting street use. For a more track oriented setup we would go a bit stiffer.
How did the suspension upgrades affect the car’s performance? Let’s hear it from the car owner himself:
“Drumroll, you nailed it. Perfect outcome. It's exactly what you set out for. More engaging but not harsh. Better handling but still street worthy. I didn't have any issues with driveways at all. I believe the car is 'better' and more sports purpose without the full gt3 treatment.”
We have the 991 Street/Track suspension in kit form, or you can send your car here for the full treatment - drive off and tear up the road!
So what are the results? Stellar! The driver feels more connected to the road with more feedback and control. Noticeably firmer than stock, the car is in no way harsh. The spherical bearings deliver a comfortable ride and make no noise. There is slightly more audible road noise coupled into the chassis, but still the cabins is quieter than the GT3.
The height turned out great. You can see from the pictures, it's the same aggressive stance as the GT3.
The spring rates we chose worked well with the existing PASM system. 20% stiffer in front and 25% stiffer in rear was a good balance for sporting street use. For a more track oriented setup we would go a bit stiffer.
How did the suspension upgrades affect the car’s performance? Let’s hear it from the car owner himself:
“Drumroll, you nailed it. Perfect outcome. It's exactly what you set out for. More engaging but not harsh. Better handling but still street worthy. I didn't have any issues with driveways at all. I believe the car is 'better' and more sports purpose without the full gt3 treatment.”
We have the 991 Street/Track suspension in kit form, or you can send your car here for the full treatment - drive off and tear up the road!
01-10-2015, 02:24 AM
#27
Rennlist Member
thoughts on using the Bilstein B16 Damptronic kit instead of converting the OEM struts?
01-10-2015, 05:42 PM
#28
Bart, Looking at this again I noticed your comment about there being 3mm subframe slop. You're basically warning not to over-tighten trying to eliminate slop that's supposed to be there. But why is slop supposed to be there? Everything in the upgrade acts to remove slop, yet Porsche has built in 3mm?
11-27-2016, 12:59 AM
#30
Thanks for putting together this DIY. By the way, I found the hard way that you don't have to cut off the OEM spring perch. You have to knock off this aluminum cover with a flat head and hammer so the OEM perch can slide out. Please revise your instruction so it won't scare off potential buyers.
As for the rear lower shock mount, you can use a 27mm socket (instead of an adjustable wrench) and T55 torx. Do have the torque spec for the 27mm nut and T55 torx (lower strut bolt)?
As for the rear lower shock mount, you can use a 27mm socket (instead of an adjustable wrench) and T55 torx. Do have the torque spec for the 27mm nut and T55 torx (lower strut bolt)?
Last edited by Jnosol; 11-28-2016 at 03:55 PM.