ShaunP

Yea no kidding. Applying the coating is easy and the product is cheap. It’s the paint correction that takes time and is expensive.

bweSteve

Hey 911 Stalker, I'd like to chime in on this point....

I think maybe you have received some poor information regarding applying ceramic coatings first, and then installing film. There is no problem doing this. In fact I have done it to my 1991 964 Turbo which was (back in the early 90's) a single stage solvent based paint WITHOUT any clear coat. Back in those days, Porsche only applied a clear coat to the metallic colors (which was NO WAY up to the quality standards of todays paints & clears), so blacks, reds, white's, did not received a clear coat from the factory. That made it very difficult after 30 years dealing with oxidation etc. I give this info because it took me several years of researching & waiting for the ceramic formulas to improve, before I dove in and had a 3 stage paint correction, + 4 layers of Ceramic Pro (with heat flashing in between coats which is a time sensitive application process), + the Hydrophobic.

THEN I had XPEL Ultimate applied after the ceramic had a chance to harden,... which for me was over 6 months (I did not want to take any chances). All of that was completed 3 years ago. I also recently had to have the mirror film removed & replaced (stretching it around the mirror contour was difficult, and it started to lift on a couple corners. This is a Concour level 964 Turbo, so I am VERY meticulous), and it was easy to do, came off without a problem, and the paint surface underneath is still locked down just like the first day of ceramic coating. Then, I'll also add that years later, I had ceramic applied to my 2010 GT3 paint, and then had XPEL Ultimate applied over top,... and then finally a film-compatible (w/ Hydrophobic) Ceramic re-applied back over top of the film. All good.

I say all this because I think there may still be some stigma about putting ceramic on first, then film second. Most people objected to that (many years ago) because of the expense of doing so (they felt it was a waste of money to apply the ceramic underneath the film because all they "really" wanted was the hydrophobic properties to show off how easy the dirt & wash-foam would slide off their car. But in reality the ceramic provides a much different level of protection verses just the hydrophobic.

Anyway,... Just wanted to chime in, and let you know that the car FS that you are considering, should not have the ceramic in your "con" list, but rather as a "pro". You can easily have film put over top of it.

..... now, in regards to that $10K value they have attached to it??? .... yea, that's a load of crap.
=Steve

Bob Z.

If I were to go through the cost of having the paint ceramic coated before PPF I would have it coated after the PPF as well.

Bud Taylor

Coated in norwegian humback whale sperm. Their process is different because the vehicle has to be positioned so the whale can apply the coating in a single cohesive shot.

StevieV22

What do you guys think?
78k
2015
1 owner
17k miles
well equipped.
BASE 911 Carrera S 031 Porsche Dynamic Chassis Control (PDCC) incl. PASM Sport Suspension 176 Sport Exhaust System 581 Luggage net in passenger footwell 583 Smoking package 603 Porsche Dynamic Light System (PDLS) 636 ParkAssist (front and rear) 640 Sport Chrono Package 653 Electric Slide/Tilt Sunroof in Glass 840 SportDesign steering wheel AZ Leather interior in Black EEL Brushed Aluminum Interior Package i.c.w. Leather Interior & Manual G1 Guards Red P06 Power Sport Seats (14-way) with Memory Package P3E Premium Package Plus i.c.w. Power Sport Seats (14-way) P3H BOSE® Audio Package XDA Wheels Painted in Black XHB Center console trim in leather XSX Seat belts in Guards Red ZAB Ornamental Porsche Crest

Bob Z.

Milllenia Motors has a couple .1 cars for not that much coin (under $60k): https://www.milleniamotors.com/vehicles

Bud Taylor

Except for the sunroof. Looks HFS to me if you can stand bright red.

StevieV22

I actually like the sunroof. What’s HFS stand for?

shammerman

Hot For Sale (this thread).

911Stalker

Thanks for sharing your experience. I will say that it’s a bit confusing to take into account some of the conflicting information. While I understand that there are different factors in play and that people can get different results, it does make some sense that putting PPF on top of ceramic could present some adhesion problems. It’s something to ponder.

As for THIS car, I’ve come to my senses and have decided it’s not the best move for me. For starters, getting into a Turbo S for my first Porsche doesn’t seem like a wise move. I think I need to stay on the path to deciding between a C2S/C4S as an entry point. Plus, I really didn’t plan on spending that much on a car...while my budget is flexible based on what I find and really like, I’d planned on staying in the $90-$110k range. I thought about forking over the extra dough to get my absolute dream car, but I think I’ll be thrilled with an S Carrera.

flgfish

Don't discount the base car, either. Calling it a "base" anything is a real misnomer.... drive a bunch of them, that's part of the fun of shopping.

zx5go

I’ve bought two cars from Oliver at Millenia Motors. Easy to deal with and honest about the condition of his cars (very important as I’m over 1,000 miles away).

Bob Z.

I've been there a couple of times as well and took test drives with Oliver, and I spoke with him and his Dad for a bit - nice cars and nice people.

rugu6869

The basis for your negotiating is several steps and the exact way that I go about my pricing offers.

1. Go to each of the websites you listed above (KBB, Edmunds and NADA) and look at Trade-in value. This will give you a delta between retail (what the seller is trying to get) and what they possibly paid for the car. That is where your negotiating power comes from.
From what I'm seeing now, that can be close to $20K. Yes, I do realize that not all dealers pay the trade-in value, some pay less, others more, depending on the car of course.
Also, just because the figures you've found above are listed as retail prices, doesn't mean you have to pay it. There is usually a range with retails as well as trade-in values. You have to use judgement when looking at these values as well.

2. Since these are cars that aren't as widely available, you'll have to look to see what else is out there and what price they're asking. Know the competition before you go in, even if it's not the exact car you'd want, the dealer doesn't know that.

3. Find out how long the dealer has the car in stock. You can usually get this from Car Fax. You'll know when they took possession of the car. If they've had this car for a while, they may be more inclined to deal.

4. Spend some time talking with the dealership and get to know them and them get to know you. I've had dealers outright tell me what they have into the car and what the minimum they would need to get out of it. Could make for quick easy negotiating or a walk out the door if you're too far apart.

Lastly, I have never, ever gotten anywhere near what I paid for any aftermarket parts. Those are maybe 10% return at best.

StevieV22

gorgeous, what are you hoping to get?