992 GT3 RS Wheels
#16
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This is a great point. I just got off the phone with Suncoast Parts. Here are the costs they gave me for replacing a single REAR wheel on a 992 GT3 RS:
1 Magnesium Pyro Red rear wheel - $13,367.27 (price for entire set is $22,500)
1 Satin Neodyme Lightweight Aluminum rear wheel - $5933.45 (price for entire set is $9,250)
1 "normal" Aluminum wheel (Silver, I think) - $5600 approximately
I was planning on getting a set of Porsche lightweight aluminums, but knowing the single-wheel replacement, I am going to research aftermarket wheels first (stock sizes and offsets). And try not to bend a wheel in the meantime.
1 Magnesium Pyro Red rear wheel - $13,367.27 (price for entire set is $22,500)
1 Satin Neodyme Lightweight Aluminum rear wheel - $5933.45 (price for entire set is $9,250)
1 "normal" Aluminum wheel (Silver, I think) - $5600 approximately
I was planning on getting a set of Porsche lightweight aluminums, but knowing the single-wheel replacement, I am going to research aftermarket wheels first (stock sizes and offsets). And try not to bend a wheel in the meantime.
#17
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I’ve used Forgeline GS1Rs on a couple of GT cars in the past. Good looking, strong and you can’t beat Forgeline’s customer service.
#18
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Are people going with the 19 inch solely for the weight savings, as opposed to avoiding the modifications that may be needed and sticking with a 20 or even the OEM style staggered 20/21?
#19
I think it's for the tire choices - more choices at 19". It could also be that higher profile tires have better characteristics on the track.. I'm not 100% sure on this.
Last edited by mthreat; 12-03-2023 at 01:46 AM.
#20
No experience... But I have the factory tire/rim insurance which allows me to muck up the magnesium wheels on my 3RS and they will fully replace the damaged wheel... goes for anything from track wear & and tear/cracks to curb rash. Was the price of 1 wheel, so in my small sized brain... Well worth it in every way for peace of mind. Not sure if this is an option for you
Usually I'm not a fan of these types of dealer money making insurances... But not going to play around with these wheels! Plus I've already used it once on a flat after 100 miles on a fresh set of rubbers. No questions asked. Replaced the tire. Drove off happy. So working my way to getting my moneys worth already!
Usually I'm not a fan of these types of dealer money making insurances... But not going to play around with these wheels! Plus I've already used it once on a flat after 100 miles on a fresh set of rubbers. No questions asked. Replaced the tire. Drove off happy. So working my way to getting my moneys worth already!
The following 2 users liked this post by obbob:
fueledbymetal (12-06-2023),
lockie (12-03-2023)
#21
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19" wheels allow you a few options to work with slicks.....for the ultimate track setup.
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James F. Sofronas | President & Owner
Global Motorsports Group ™
E: james@gmgracing.com
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daveo4porsche (12-03-2023)
#22
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daveo4porsche (12-03-2023)
#23
When I got my wheel protection plan, I asked them about this specifically. My plan is through Siskin (but sold through the dealership). I talked to Daryl @ Siskin on the phone and specifically asked if it covered magnesium wheels, and I told him the price of the wheels. He said yes.. and of course I read the contract and I didn't see any exclusion for magnesium wheels. I hope I never have to test it... but if I do and they give me problems, you can believe I'll post it here.
#24
Xpel promises the world with their lifetime warranty, but my installer’s claim was denied even though a very noticeable discoloration happened after 2 months. Reason for denial was because I parked the car outside during the day. CeramicPro also claims a lot until it’s showtime. Hopefully this isn’t the case here, but I have my doubts that such an affordable plan will cover such a pricey wheel.
#25
We have been selling both 19" and 20" Forgeline sets for our customers with the new 992 GT3RS. All of the owners are swapping to these sizes to facilitate running Hoosier R7's (19" or 20") or Michelin/Pirelli slicks. (19"). Most guys have been selecting the new NW105 wheel design, followed by the tried and true GE1R and finally the SS1R.
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daveo4porsche (12-04-2023)
#26
I went the route of @daveo4porsche , extra set of OEM size wheels. I went through the Cup 2s that came with the car in about 6 track days, they have a little left but heat cycled out before cording.
Second set of wheels (Forgeline) and Goodyears, if your looking for maximum track performance the Goodyears are not your tire. They are a lot of fun, squeal like a stuck pig and you can slide all over the place. On the road these are great tires.
I am on to Cup 2Rs for track use and will report back. I may have to get a 3rd set of wheels that can accommodate Hoosiers if the Cup2Rs disappoint. Working on an excuse to the wife right now.
Second set of wheels (Forgeline) and Goodyears, if your looking for maximum track performance the Goodyears are not your tire. They are a lot of fun, squeal like a stuck pig and you can slide all over the place. On the road these are great tires.
I am on to Cup 2Rs for track use and will report back. I may have to get a 3rd set of wheels that can accommodate Hoosiers if the Cup2Rs disappoint. Working on an excuse to the wife right now.
First time for me using them and significant decrease in front end grip after 7-8 hot laps on Dubai Autodrome (5.3km long track). First 5–6 laps were really sticky.
Used the same hot pressure as I used for Cup 2’s (non R) on the 991 RS which was 2.1 bar front and 2.3 rear.
Running -2.5 camber front and tire temps were kept below 85 degrees celcius. Outdoor temps around 28-30 degrees celcius.
Not an expert, but haven’t experienced similar wear with Trofeos or Non R Cup2s after such few laps.
To me looks like the fronts are gone and feels like it too.. the wear in the middle seems to indicate too high pressure and looking at the inner edge more
camber would help too…The pics are taken on the next day after the track day..
Please let me know your thoughts.
Last edited by Asco; 12-05-2023 at 05:17 PM.
#27
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Since you're specifically looking for track wheels, we can engineer a set specifically for track use since all of our wheels are individually engineered, we can shave off as much weight as possible since we don't have to account for typical road hazards like potholes and we even offer a accidental damage warranty so if you do run off the track and damage your wheel we can replace it at a discounted cost. if you don't want to compromise performance we also have our own line of Magnesium forged wheels that are half the cost of a OE Porsche wheel.
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dixonk (12-05-2023)
#28
@Asco in your pictures it looks like (to me) those tires have a lot of life left. They obviously got hot as they have quite a bit of rubber “pick up” on them.
The cup 2Rs can get very greasy when very warm, you can see 10 psi increase in pressure from cold to hot (maybe more). Not a bad idea to start below 30 psi (sorry don’t know the bar conversion). Come into the pits and drop some psi, hot 34-35 (maybe 36) should work great.
Just my opinion.
The cup 2Rs can get very greasy when very warm, you can see 10 psi increase in pressure from cold to hot (maybe more). Not a bad idea to start below 30 psi (sorry don’t know the bar conversion). Come into the pits and drop some psi, hot 34-35 (maybe 36) should work great.
Just my opinion.
#29
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OP: looks like you need more camber to save the tires a bit more.
cup2R is a very sensitive tire. they will generate much higher shoulder temps because of the increased grip mid corner. I found they are only good for 3-4 sessions max before dropping times- so- one day.
They are very soft and if you overheat them, they cannot recover. I have not tracked them on the new 3RS but have experience with them on GT3 and M4CSL and Pista.
on my M4CSL - the max temp I saw was above 240F on the fronts @ laguna with 75-85F ambient and running 1:32-1:33 with passenger. This was earlier this year on repaved Laguna Seca.
Generally you don't want temps over 200 for track tires. In the past I've found tire life is best if you can keep the Sport Cup 2 @ 195 max.
Even when I was tracking the Viper on the Kumho and P1 on various tires I'd try and limit laps above 200-210. Viper front tires also toast after 3-4 sessions depending on the track. They chunk at tracks like Big Willow on turn 2.
Cup2R is not a good weekend tire. If I needed 2+ days out of a tire for the track I'd only advise Sport Cup2 which are more consistent for 8-10 HC. They can do 12-15 HC before really falling off.
cup2R is a very sensitive tire. they will generate much higher shoulder temps because of the increased grip mid corner. I found they are only good for 3-4 sessions max before dropping times- so- one day.
They are very soft and if you overheat them, they cannot recover. I have not tracked them on the new 3RS but have experience with them on GT3 and M4CSL and Pista.
on my M4CSL - the max temp I saw was above 240F on the fronts @ laguna with 75-85F ambient and running 1:32-1:33 with passenger. This was earlier this year on repaved Laguna Seca.
Generally you don't want temps over 200 for track tires. In the past I've found tire life is best if you can keep the Sport Cup 2 @ 195 max.
Even when I was tracking the Viper on the Kumho and P1 on various tires I'd try and limit laps above 200-210. Viper front tires also toast after 3-4 sessions depending on the track. They chunk at tracks like Big Willow on turn 2.
Cup2R is not a good weekend tire. If I needed 2+ days out of a tire for the track I'd only advise Sport Cup2 which are more consistent for 8-10 HC. They can do 12-15 HC before really falling off.
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#30
@Asco in your pictures it looks like (to me) those tires have a lot of life left. They obviously got hot as they have quite a bit of rubber “pick up” on them.
The cup 2Rs can get very greasy when very warm, you can see 10 psi increase in pressure from cold to hot (maybe more). Not a bad idea to start below 30 psi (sorry don’t know the bar conversion). Come into the pits and drop some psi, hot 34-35 (maybe 36) should work great.
Just my opinion.
The cup 2Rs can get very greasy when very warm, you can see 10 psi increase in pressure from cold to hot (maybe more). Not a bad idea to start below 30 psi (sorry don’t know the bar conversion). Come into the pits and drop some psi, hot 34-35 (maybe 36) should work great.
Just my opinion.
OP: looks like you need more camber to save the tires a bit more.
cup2R is a very sensitive tire. they will generate much higher shoulder temps because of the increased grip mid corner. I found they are only good for 3-4 sessions max before dropping times- so- one day.
They are very soft and if you overheat them, they cannot recover. I have not tracked them on the new 3RS but have experience with them on GT3 and M4CSL and Pista.
on my M4CSL - the max temp I saw was above 240F on the fronts @ laguna with 75-85F ambient and running 1:32-1:33 with passenger. This was earlier this year on repaved Laguna Seca.
Generally you don't want temps over 200 for track tires. In the past I've found tire life is best if you can keep the Sport Cup 2 @ 195 max.
Even when I was tracking the Viper on the Kumho and P1 on various tires I'd try and limit laps above 200-210. Viper front tires also toast after 3-4 sessions depending on the track. They chunk at tracks like Big Willow on turn 2.
Cup2R is not a good weekend tire. If I needed 2+ days out of a tire for the track I'd only advise Sport Cup2 which are more consistent for 8-10 HC. They can do 12-15 HC before really falling off.
cup2R is a very sensitive tire. they will generate much higher shoulder temps because of the increased grip mid corner. I found they are only good for 3-4 sessions max before dropping times- so- one day.
They are very soft and if you overheat them, they cannot recover. I have not tracked them on the new 3RS but have experience with them on GT3 and M4CSL and Pista.
on my M4CSL - the max temp I saw was above 240F on the fronts @ laguna with 75-85F ambient and running 1:32-1:33 with passenger. This was earlier this year on repaved Laguna Seca.
Generally you don't want temps over 200 for track tires. In the past I've found tire life is best if you can keep the Sport Cup 2 @ 195 max.
Even when I was tracking the Viper on the Kumho and P1 on various tires I'd try and limit laps above 200-210. Viper front tires also toast after 3-4 sessions depending on the track. They chunk at tracks like Big Willow on turn 2.
Cup2R is not a good weekend tire. If I needed 2+ days out of a tire for the track I'd only advise Sport Cup2 which are more consistent for 8-10 HC. They can do 12-15 HC before really falling off.
Guess i’ll switch to Cup 2’s after this set as I track quite a bit and the R’s are much less consistent after the first day.. Hope the Trofeo RS reaches soon, would be great to try and compare.