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Actually, I think it is better to just connect directly to the battery for a trickle charger. This bypasses any battery minder circuitry in the Porsche and runs less risk of damaging sensitive semiconductors and microchips. It gives a true reading off the battery where as going through the chassis ground results in going through the car's computer circuitry and battery minder which may effect the trickle charger. I could be wrong but I would rather go directly through the battery.
Picked up my 992 GTS a little over a week ago. Drove it about 15 miles home and parked it while I get PPF sorted. Needless to say, I could help from going and sitting in the car multiple times, turning ignition on and playing with the settings and functions. Today the low battery message came on and it turned off the cluster etc. Setup a Ctek pigtail (positive to battery, negative to under the nut for the battery strap. Plugged in and the battery is now charging.
Picked up my 992 GTS a little over a week ago. Drove it about 15 miles home and parked it while I get PPF sorted. Needless to say, I could help from going and sitting in the car multiple times, turning ignition on and playing with the settings and functions. Today the low battery message came on and it turned off the cluster etc. Setup a Ctek pigtail (positive to battery, negative to under the nut for the battery strap. Plugged in and the battery is now charging.
I am shocked the battery was low after one week. I sometimes go two to three weeks between drives (shame on me!) and it still starts fine.
I am shocked the battery was low after one week. I sometimes go two to three weeks between drives (shame on me!) and it still starts fine.
The car was built on Dec 12, 2023, reached the CA port on Feb 12, sat there for over a month before it got to my dealer on Mar 13, and I picked it up on Mar 21. My guess is that the dealer probably never fully charged the battery, and me not driving for over a week and playing around with the car with ignition on, didn’t help. I’m chalking it up to new car that’s sat around a lot.
Once it’s fully charged and I’ve had some drive cycles, then we’ll be in a better position to assess if there is a battery issue. Does my logic make sense?
Yes - the Li batteries take some time to charge up and a lot of juice - they go up to 14.8V, so make sure you charge with a charger rated for Li batteries, or go on a good long drive.
One important tidbit - if you are sitting in the garage messing with the new UI, turn the headlights off by pressing the fog light button and then holding it to completely shut off the lights - they are a HUGE current draw. Your 5 amp trickle charger won't keep up with demand if you are sitting with the ignition on and engine off.
One important tidbit - if you are sitting in the garage messing with the new UI, turn the headlights off by pressing the fog light button and then holding it to completely shut off the lights - they are a HUGE current draw. Your 5 amp trickle charger won't keep up with demand if you are sitting with the ignition on and engine off.
I learned that a few mins before the low voltage message
Not going to do anything until the battery is topped up or I’m ready for a long drive. Will disconnect the charger tomorrow morning for a few hours while the car gets PPF though. It would have been on a charger for a solid 18-20 hours by then.
…where as going through the chassis ground results in going through the car's computer circuitry...
It does. Which is why connecting to ground is recommended. Fitting positive/negative isolates the battery when charging (same as charging on the bench). The BMS will be unaware of the increased charge applied to the battery while the engine’s not running so the ECU will drive the alternator unnecessarily hard, at least initially. This can decrease battery life…theoretically
I posted this in the 718 forum (came up on a search) will try it in a couple months, may be a good simple option for those of us that are condo residents.
Quick question, do i need to know anything before unscrewing those bolts, is there any danger in terms of shock etc. Also do you need to unscrew in certain order ie. red before black?
Thanks
I don't have my car yet so I can't give specifics - but if there is enough exposed thread available, its better to put another nut on top of the existing one to secure the charger lugs - leave the factory connections alone. You may have to play around to find the size and notably the thread pitch of which nuts to use, unless someone else has that data.
install negative first (or ground in this case) and then install red one. Also no changes of sparks since the dongle is an open circuit (DO NOT do this while the actual charger is plugged in, or powered on)
01-12-2024, 09:09 AM
