Rear Spoiler Wall - Tips
05-28-2019, 06:31 PM
#16
Following up on this saga, the OEM Porsche spoiler curtain went on within less than five minutes total. The tolerances were correct and everything snapped on without drama. I'm returning the "German" branded spoiler wall to the vendor. The price difference was about $70, which I'm glad to pay for a much easier job.
mtf
mtf
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BLT (02-22-2020)
03-21-2020, 01:51 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Last time I replaced mine it was sourced from Pelican. I have the RUF spoiler module so the spoiler doesn't get exercised too much but it lasted less than 12 months. I now use black Gorilla tape.
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Sagres74 (06-16-2020)
01-05-2023, 12:36 PM
#21
My spoiler wall split apart so I did this job last night. Read all there was to read about it before getting started and still it was a bit of a struggle.
Plenty of sweat, some swearing, sore muscles and knuckles.
I learned a few things that could be of help to others.
Plenty of sweat, some swearing, sore muscles and knuckles.
I learned a few things that could be of help to others.
- Getting the old one off is pretty easy if you know the trick. First, break the wall into two pieces, its probably mostly there already. Top part will pull right off. Lower part had me flummoxed for a while, because there didn't seem to be enough room to remove it. My problem was that the spoiler was fully open and the geometry doesn't work. Close it a little and the bottom section has room to come off as well.
- The 'German' brand spoiler wall at Pelican is an almost perfect match for the original. I've read that some people had trouble with OE and Porsche branded parts. 'German' brand was cheapest and looked the same with one exception. The top rail snap-in notch was slightly smaller than what I pulled off the car. Perhaps due to the fact that it was new and unused whereas the original had stretched a little with use? Anyway this leads to #3.
- Getting the new one to attach at the top was a bit of a grunt. If I pushed as hard as I could I could get the notch to snap in at the two sides but I couldn't get the entire middle section to work. No matter how hard I pushed it wouldn't budge. Doesn't help that the angles are difficult, the spoiler wiggles and you really don't want to break anything. After pouring a bucket of sweat and straining my shoulders I decided to try a different tactic. I'd already greased the channel but I added a little bit of tri-flow and let it soak in. Then I placed the screwdriver in the 'notch' and tapped it lightly with a rubber mallet. Voila! The spoiler wall snapped right in! I could have saved myself a lot of swearing if I'd tried that from the start.
01-05-2023, 02:01 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
My spoiler wall split apart so I did this job last night. Read all there was to read about it before getting started and still it was a bit of a struggle.
Plenty of sweat, some swearing, sore muscles and knuckles.
I learned a few things that could be of help to others.
Plenty of sweat, some swearing, sore muscles and knuckles.
I learned a few things that could be of help to others.
- Getting the old one off is pretty easy if you know the trick. First, break the wall into two pieces, its probably mostly there already. Top part will pull right off. Lower part had me flummoxed for a while, because there didn't seem to be enough room to remove it. My problem was that the spoiler was fully open and the geometry doesn't work. Close it a little and the bottom section has room to come off as well.
- The 'German' brand spoiler wall at Pelican is an almost perfect match for the original. I've read that some people had trouble with OE and Porsche branded parts. 'German' brand was cheapest and looked the same with one exception. The top rail snap-in notch was slightly smaller than what I pulled off the car. Perhaps due to the fact that it was new and unused whereas the original had stretched a little with use? Anyway this leads to #3.
- Getting the new one to attach at the top was a bit of a grunt. If I pushed as hard as I could I could get the notch to snap in at the two sides but I couldn't get the entire middle section to work. No matter how hard I pushed it wouldn't budge. Doesn't help that the angles are difficult, the spoiler wiggles and you really don't want to break anything. After pouring a bucket of sweat and straining my shoulders I decided to try a different tactic. I'd already greased the channel but I added a little bit of tri-flow and let it soak in. Then I placed the screwdriver in the 'notch' and tapped it lightly with a rubber mallet. Voila! The spoiler wall snapped right in! I could have saved myself a lot of swearing if I'd tried that from the start.
Thanks in advance.
01-05-2023, 02:53 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Might help if the new spoiler wall is warmed a little by the sun, try putting the plastic in a warm spot like on a window ledge to get it more pliable.
I worked from L to R with the spoiler, get the L or right edge in, work to the center and continue until the R side is in the channel. Took me less than 4 minutes to install.
I worked from L to R with the spoiler, get the L or right edge in, work to the center and continue until the R side is in the channel. Took me less than 4 minutes to install.
01-05-2023, 05:36 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Macovp
Hello, currently stuck with both side of the top installed but can’t get the center. Where did you place the screw driver? Thanks
Andy
01-05-2023, 07:39 PM
#26
01-06-2023, 11:22 AM
#27
01-06-2023, 03:24 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
One can get dry teflon spray at auto parts stores. I've never seen one common project stump so many people. Try building an air-cooled motor. The spoiler wall is a walk in the park.