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I would concur with menzerna. The only wrinkle I’d add is to go to some of the detailing forums and research the catalyzed nano coatings like gtechniq. I have that on my car and a simple wash will make it look detailed all over again.
I'm old fashioned and use my Porter Cable DA with Pinnacle souveran advanced swirl remover. I follow that with a finishing polish and then finally a heavy pinnacle carnauba wax. I buy all my stuff from auto geek. All the plastics get the Wulfgang treatment and so far, it's been fantastic. I use the synthetic wax on my daily drivers but nothing makes the arena red shine like the carnauba wax.
Last edited by 71-3.0-911; 11-28-2018 at 10:49 AM.
All the products mentioned are good. I have about every product available through autogeek. My recommendation is to get either Blackfire One Step or 3D hd speed. They are both outstanding all -in-one products. Either one will give you an incredible finish in just one step. Go slowly. Use an orange or white lake country pad. Lots a good how-to videos on the autogeek website. You can top them if you want with a good finishing wax. Wolfgang fusion looks awesome on a black porsche! Good luck. Phil
I use the foam wheel on my polisher, both purchased at Harbor Freight, once a year or so. For fun, I tried using it with a synthetic paint sealer type polish on my single stage speed yellow car and it turned out to produce great results. On a black car like yours, I suspect visible swirl marks are more of an issue than on a light colored car like mine. I suspect getting your car very clean before the job and your hand technique while using the wheel is a big determinant of outcome.
Andy
For removing surface swirls or small scratches, I have used the Porter Cable random Orbital I got from Griots in 1997- awesome tool. I use a teflon-based scratch remover ( from west marine actually) that works wonders. For polis and wax, i've been a Griots guy having lived in Seattle for 17 years and watched them spring up and hold all sorts of classes on paint protection. I also recommend a good clay prep before you do anything. It's great insurance. Here's a buddy's 944 I restored for him. This paint was in BAD shape- someone used color additive wax and hid a lot of imperfections. in the course of about 6 hours I brought it back to life
Assume you have single stage paint. You can check by putting some polish (not wax) on your towel and rubbing, if you get black on the towel then it's single stage. If not, then you have clear. Porsche was transitioning on solid colors from single to clear during the 933 product run. Main difference when detailing is with clear you have less margin for errors as the clear coat is thinner than paint.
It's more about process than a specific product, especially black! I have a Guards Red 993 single stage, not as bad as black, but still shows scratches easy.
Wash, soap, rinse, dry. Wash using jet stream on nozzle. Soap you want lots of foam. Dying it's nice if you have a high powered blower, if using a towel (microfiber although some still use very high quality cotton). ONLY use a towel that is for drying for that car. DO not wash and dry detailing towels with anything else.
Clay.
Wash, soap, rinse, dry. Why, well there will still be some small particles left.
Polish. First time through and occasionally thereafter, do 2 stages. First a medium cut (you may need something more aggressive but I would not go more aggressive without some experience) then a finish cut.
Wax. Maybe 2 coats, allow to dry before second coat.
Once the car looks like you want it to, and as long as it's not extremely dirty, you can just wash properly and hand apply some wax, then occasionally go through the whole routine.
While carnauba looks great, unless your doing a high end concours show, I would use a synthetic, it last a lot longer. I use Menzerna Power Lock.
I do use a orbital for polishing. Use to Porter Cable, works fine, now use Rupes.
I may display for a charity event but do not compete in concours. Over time I have found a little more effort goes a long way.
Determining the type of paint you have (one stage v two stage) is a most important factor, prior to beginning. Fine cut polish and never rubbing compound.
I've seen more guys burn through their clear coat or burn their paint in the case of one stage, than I care to shake a stick at!
Personally, I only work by hand; and yes, it takes a lot longer and is significantly more labor intensive. However, I have never burned through my clear coat, or burned the paint on any edges or hard lines of the car.
My dad used to tell me, God rest his soul; anyone can learn from his own mistakes, but a wise man learns from the mistakes of others.
I'm a big fan of Menzerna Power Lock that il pirata references. Goes on and off easily. That said, is there anything that is just as easy but longer lasting?
Determining the type of paint you have (one stage v two stage) is a most important factor, prior to beginning. Fine cut polish and never rubbing compound.
I've seen more guys burn through their clear coat or burn their paint in the case of one stage, than I care to shake a stick at!
Personally, I only work by hand; and yes, it takes a lot longer and is significantly more labor intensive. However, I have never burned through my clear coat, or burned the paint on any edges or hard lines of the car.
My dad used to tell me, God rest his soul; anyone can learn from his own mistakes, but a wise man learns from the mistakes of others.
You do swirl and hologram removal by hand? Why? The only way you can hurt paint with a DA is if you drop it on the car. Save your arms, back, and time, along with superior results with a DA.
I also have a black 993, if you breath near it swirl marks appear. A random orbital is a must along various cutting and polishing pads. I use 3M 3 stage compounds that I get from my local pro paint and body supplier. Depending on the damage I may only use one or two stages. if you want to view some great videos on the different processes of cleaning, polishing and waxing a car look up AMMO NYC on you tube. I haven't used his products but the education is priceless and well produced and he's a Porsche fanatic.
You do swirl and hologram removal by hand? Why? The only way you can hurt paint with a DA is if you drop it on the car. Save your arms, back, and time, along with superior results with a DA.
I'm a big fan of Menzerna Power Lock that il pirata references. Goes on and off easily. That said, is there anything that is just as easy but longer lasting?
Sonax Polymer Net Shield. Lasts 6 months. Easy on, easy off. Looks great.
11-27-2018, 10:25 PM
