What machine polish compound are you using?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What machine polish compound are you using?
I have swirl marks and light scuffs from cleaning on my black now 24 year old paint. It seems to me to be quite soft compared to modern paints. It is a 2 or 3 stage process that Porsche used- is there a clearcoat layer?
Anyway, I am going to use a dual action orbital machine polisher to restore it and I'm wonder what machine polish you all use. I have been looking at Grigot's no.3, but I think it's out of production now. Any better suggestions? I'm pretty new to this having recently purchased the DA machine.
Thanks, Meenrod
Anyway, I am going to use a dual action orbital machine polisher to restore it and I'm wonder what machine polish you all use. I have been looking at Grigot's no.3, but I think it's out of production now. Any better suggestions? I'm pretty new to this having recently purchased the DA machine.
Thanks, Meenrod
#2
Porter Cable random orbital polisher (old school but still works great), 5" microfiber or foam polishing (not cutting) pads, Menzerna SIP for swirls. Menzerna PO 85 RD for fine polish. Sonax Polymer Net Shield sealant. All products available at Detailer's Domain (Rennlist sponsor).
#3
Rennlist Member
If you like Griots I’d skip Machine Polish 3 if you have mild to moderate swirl marks. They recently came out with a new polishing compound in a yellow container. I can’t recall actual name right now.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I have no feelings about Grigot's - they came up in my Google search. Are their products okay?
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Porter Cable random orbital polisher (old school but still works great), 5" microfiber or foam polishing (not cutting) pads, Menzerna SIP for swirls. Menzerna PO 85 RD for fine polish. Sonax Polymer Net Shield sealant. All products available at Detailer's Domain (Rennlist sponsor).
#6
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I would recommend 3M 06068 Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish.
When I had my Guards Red Boxster I was **** about swirls. It was nothing as bad as your black paint, but it was still a battle. After using many products and much investigation I came across the below products. I use the compound first using the wool pad then the machine polish using the foam pad. I also use a 7-inch 10-amp variable speed polisher from Harbor Freight for the job. This was by far the best way I have found for remove swirl marks.
3M 6085 06085 Perfect-It Rubbing Compound
3M 33281 Wool Compounding Pad, Single Sided
3M 06068 Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish
3M 5733 Perfect-It Ultrafine Foam Polishing Pad, 05733
Harbor Freight 7 in. 10 Amp Heavy Duty Digital Variable Speed Polisher, No. 62297
When I had my Guards Red Boxster I was **** about swirls. It was nothing as bad as your black paint, but it was still a battle. After using many products and much investigation I came across the below products. I use the compound first using the wool pad then the machine polish using the foam pad. I also use a 7-inch 10-amp variable speed polisher from Harbor Freight for the job. This was by far the best way I have found for remove swirl marks.
3M 6085 06085 Perfect-It Rubbing Compound
3M 33281 Wool Compounding Pad, Single Sided
3M 06068 Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish
3M 5733 Perfect-It Ultrafine Foam Polishing Pad, 05733
Harbor Freight 7 in. 10 Amp Heavy Duty Digital Variable Speed Polisher, No. 62297
#7
Trust me. The Menzerna stuff will blow your mind!
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#8
Rennlist Member
Whatever you use, work in small sections, and slow hand-speed is key. Also don't forget Wash, Clay, polish, then Seal.
#9
Rennlist Member
Menzerna is great stuff. I've been using if for a few years.
#10
Banned
Short answer Menzerna.
Long answer...
Assume you have single stage paint. You can check by putting some polish (not wax) on your towel and rubbing, if you get black on the towel then it's single stage. If not, then you have clear. Porsche was transitioning on solid colors from single to clear during the 933 product run. Main difference when detailing is with clear you have less margin for errors as the clear coat is thinner than paint.
It's more about process than a specific product, especially black! I have a Guards Red 993 single stage, not as bad as black, but still shows scratches easy.
Wash, soap, rinse, dry. Wash using jet stream on nozzle. Soap you want lots of foam. Dying it's nice if you have a high powered blower, if using a towel (microfiber although some still use very high quality cotton). ONLY use a towel that is for drying for that car. DO not wash and dry detailing towels with anything else.
Clay.
Wash, soap, rinse, dry. Why, well there will still be some small particles left.
Polish. First time through and occasionally thereafter, do 2 stages. First a medium cut (you may need something more aggressive but I would not go more aggressive without some experience) then a finish cut.
Wax. Maybe 2 coats, allow to dry before second coat.
Once the car looks like you want it to, and as long as it's not extremely dirty, you can just wash properly and hand apply some wax, then occasionally go through the whole routine.
While carnauba looks great, unless your doing a high end concours show, I would use a synthetic, it last a lot longer. I use Menzerna Power Lock.
I do use a orbital for polishing. Use to Porter Cable, works fine, now use Rupes.
I may display for a charity event but do not compete in concours. Over time I have found a little more effort goes a long way.
Long answer...
Assume you have single stage paint. You can check by putting some polish (not wax) on your towel and rubbing, if you get black on the towel then it's single stage. If not, then you have clear. Porsche was transitioning on solid colors from single to clear during the 933 product run. Main difference when detailing is with clear you have less margin for errors as the clear coat is thinner than paint.
It's more about process than a specific product, especially black! I have a Guards Red 993 single stage, not as bad as black, but still shows scratches easy.
Wash, soap, rinse, dry. Wash using jet stream on nozzle. Soap you want lots of foam. Dying it's nice if you have a high powered blower, if using a towel (microfiber although some still use very high quality cotton). ONLY use a towel that is for drying for that car. DO not wash and dry detailing towels with anything else.
Clay.
Wash, soap, rinse, dry. Why, well there will still be some small particles left.
Polish. First time through and occasionally thereafter, do 2 stages. First a medium cut (you may need something more aggressive but I would not go more aggressive without some experience) then a finish cut.
Wax. Maybe 2 coats, allow to dry before second coat.
Once the car looks like you want it to, and as long as it's not extremely dirty, you can just wash properly and hand apply some wax, then occasionally go through the whole routine.
While carnauba looks great, unless your doing a high end concours show, I would use a synthetic, it last a lot longer. I use Menzerna Power Lock.
I do use a orbital for polishing. Use to Porter Cable, works fine, now use Rupes.
I may display for a charity event but do not compete in concours. Over time I have found a little more effort goes a long way.
#11
Burning Brakes
Re olishers.
Many pros have advised to not use anything but a dual action, random orbital polisher like the PC 7424 or Griots. Too easy to exert excess pressure with devices like the HF piece, overheating paint surfaces and causing damage. The video of the PC polisher demonstrates "too much" pressure being exerted, the device sensing such, slowing or ceasing to rotate, preventing damage.
Many pros have advised to not use anything but a dual action, random orbital polisher like the PC 7424 or Griots. Too easy to exert excess pressure with devices like the HF piece, overheating paint surfaces and causing damage. The video of the PC polisher demonstrates "too much" pressure being exerted, the device sensing such, slowing or ceasing to rotate, preventing damage.
#12
Rennlist Member
Good choice.
I use;
Flex XC 3401 DA polisher, (had porter cable, but the Flex is more effective, quicker, can apply more pressure) see here for info https://www.autogeek.net/flex-orbital-polisher.html
Lake county pads, though most any will do
Menzerna compounds
Have fun.
I use;
Flex XC 3401 DA polisher, (had porter cable, but the Flex is more effective, quicker, can apply more pressure) see here for info https://www.autogeek.net/flex-orbital-polisher.html
Lake county pads, though most any will do
Menzerna compounds
Have fun.
#13
I have been using Zaino products for almost 15 years and think it's the best stuff out there. Best part, you can get this stuff on your trim and rubber, leaves no white residue and wipes of easy. http://www.zainostore.com/
If your paint has lots of scratches and swirl marks, I would clean the car, clay and start with this stuff http://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-PC.html (Note: If you are not getting the results due to heavy swirls or scratches I would try a more abrasive compound polish like the 3M kits, I have had good results with these 3M products when I do some color sanding. Once you have all the swirls and scratches removed I would finish off by using Zaino Z-2 http://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-2.html Make sure you get the ZFX flash cure accelerator http://www.zainostore.com/product/ZFX.html This stuff actually makes a difference and works with Z-PC, Z-5 and Z-2.
Going forward once all the paint has been restored, I would maintain the car by using Z-5 http://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-5.html and Z-2 http://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-2.html. I swear by these products and the shine is insane. Make sure you follow their instructions. Here is are a few pictures on how it shines on my Metal Black 993. Good luck with whatever product you go with.
If your paint has lots of scratches and swirl marks, I would clean the car, clay and start with this stuff http://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-PC.html (Note: If you are not getting the results due to heavy swirls or scratches I would try a more abrasive compound polish like the 3M kits, I have had good results with these 3M products when I do some color sanding. Once you have all the swirls and scratches removed I would finish off by using Zaino Z-2 http://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-2.html Make sure you get the ZFX flash cure accelerator http://www.zainostore.com/product/ZFX.html This stuff actually makes a difference and works with Z-PC, Z-5 and Z-2.
Going forward once all the paint has been restored, I would maintain the car by using Z-5 http://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-5.html and Z-2 http://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-2.html. I swear by these products and the shine is insane. Make sure you follow their instructions. Here is are a few pictures on how it shines on my Metal Black 993. Good luck with whatever product you go with.
#14
Rennlist Member
I've been using Griots 3 step polishes for years now with their random orbital. Always get compliments on my paint. Interested in the Menzerna polishes after hearing all these great reviews. Maybe I'll try it out.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thank you to everyone who contributed above - lots to read and it's clear the process is crucial. Appreciate the help.
Meenrod
Meenrod