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Old 06-11-2019, 02:02 AM
  #16  
jcochran1
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It's not bad with a lift. One tip, before putting it on your lift you'll want to make the tank drain plug and larger oil filter accessible by removing trim etc. Once on my lift those items are no longer accessible and require putting the car back on the ground to remove. I usually forget.
Old 06-11-2019, 02:31 PM
  #17  
User 122821
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I've used doubled aluminum foil for years to direct the oil flow from the tank into the drain pan. I just throw it away once done. Also I agree positioning the scissor lift arms at the right angle is critical to avoid blocking access.
Old 06-11-2019, 03:38 PM
  #18  
pp000830
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Originally Posted by evilfij
I still don’t understand how Franny can keep pastel clothing clean working on Porsches.
Her stunt double jumps in and actually changes the oil.
Old 06-11-2019, 04:47 PM
  #19  
Endoman
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I used one of these with my scissor lift and I was another one that had to drop it again to remove the trim.
Old 06-12-2019, 11:21 AM
  #20  
Edward
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Good tips here already: go slow and use common sense. Just a few reminders:

1. Don't overtighten either the drain plugs or filter, especially the smaller engine-case filter. Over tighten that small one and it'll be a real bear getting that off the next time. Firm is fine.
2. Fill with 8 quarts and start the car ;don't worry, you will not starve the engine. Then sloooowly fill, looking down the filler neck as you pour. You will see that if you pour too quickly the oil level rises and will easily spill out, so go slowly, patiently. You'll likely add another 1 - 1.5 quarts. Remember that the car is running so be seriously careful that you have no loose clothing, rags, paper towel that can blow with the engine fan. or hair that can cause you serious injury!
3. Check the dipstick and get the oil around the bottom mark; if it shows anywhere on the stick, you're good. Now take that quart and funnel with you and get the car hot. You know "hot" is when the oil temp gauge rises to 8:00 then drops, indicating the T-stat to the front cooler is open. Keep driving and get the temp needle back up to at least 8:00 again, stop on level ground (you can pull back into your home or stop at a gas station which is what I often do), leave the car running and bring the oil level to 1/4 to 1/2 of the dipstick. Do NOT fill above 1/2 of the dipstick ...at least I never do. Oil will expand under more heat so this is your hedge against barfing oil out the filler tube (as us how we know ).
4. Pull back in at home, let idle and re-check dipstick level.
4. Enjoy a job well done ...you're now fully initiated into the 993 family

Edward
Old 06-12-2019, 11:56 AM
  #21  
Twilightblue28A
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Originally Posted by Edward
Good tips here already: go slow and use common sense. Just a few reminders:

1. Don't overtighten either the drain plugs or filter, especially the smaller engine-case filter. Over tighten that small one and it'll be a real bear getting that off the next time. Firm is fine.
2. Fill with 8 quarts and start the car ;don't worry, you will not starve the engine. Then sloooowly fill, looking down the filler neck as you pour. You will see that if you pour too quickly the oil level rises and will easily spill out, so go slowly, patiently. You'll likely add another 1 - 1.5 quarts. Remember that the car is running so be seriously careful that you have no loose clothing, rags, paper towel that can blow with the engine fan. or hair that can cause you serious injury!
3. Check the dipstick and get the oil around the bottom mark; if it shows anywhere on the stick, you're good. Now take that quart and funnel with you and get the car hot. You know "hot" is when the oil temp gauge rises to 8:00 then drops, indicating the T-stat to the front cooler is open. Keep driving and get the temp needle back up to at least 8:00 again, stop on level ground (you can pull back into your home or stop at a gas station which is what I often do), leave the car running and bring the oil level to 1/4 to 1/2 of the dipstick. Do NOT fill above 1/2 of the dipstick ...at least I never do. Oil will expand under more heat so this is your hedge against barfing oil out the filler tube (as us how we know ).
4. Pull back in at home, let idle and re-check dipstick level.
4. Enjoy a job well done ...you're now fully initiated into the 993 family

Edward
Great advice and I think "Oilmaster" pp000830 has met his competition!!
Thank you.
Old 06-12-2019, 01:38 PM
  #22  
pp000830
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Originally Posted by Edward
Good tips here already: go slow and use common sense. Just a few reminders:

1. Don't overtighten either the drain plugs or filter, especially the smaller engine-case filter. Over tighten that small one and it'll be a real bear getting that off the next time. Firm is fine.
2. Fill with 8 quarts and start the car ;don't worry, you will not starve the engine. Then sloooowly fill, looking down the filler neck as you pour. You will see that if you pour too quickly the oil level rises and will easily spill out, so go slowly, patiently. You'll likely add another 1 - 1.5 quarts. Remember that the car is running so be seriously careful that you have no loose clothing, rags, paper towel that can blow with the engine fan. or hair that can cause you serious injury!
3. Check the dipstick and get the oil around the bottom mark; if it shows anywhere on the stick, you're good. Now take that quart and funnel with you and get the car hot. You know "hot" is when the oil temp gauge rises to 8:00 then drops, indicating the T-stat to the front cooler is open. Keep driving and get the temp needle back up to at least 8:00 again, stop on level ground (you can pull back into your home or stop at a gas station which is what I often do), leave the car running and bring the oil level to 1/4 to 1/2 of the dipstick. Do NOT fill above 1/2 of the dipstick ...at least I never do. Oil will expand under more heat so this is your hedge against barfing oil out the filler tube (as us how we know ).
4. Pull back in at home, let idle and re-check dipstick level.
4. Enjoy a job well done ...you're now fully initiated into the 993 family

Edward
Good advice. Nice detailed procedures.
Old 06-12-2019, 02:07 PM
  #23  
fsa
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Pink lady, Franny, who doesn't get a drop of oil on herself, used 5-40 grade oil.in the video.
Steve Weiner, Jeff Gamroth and others in the know have repeatedly stated "5" is too low for air cooled cars.
Old 06-12-2019, 02:57 PM
  #24  
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Great tips, but need to add 1, for me, major tool.

The plastic under bed storage bin. Remove the lid, throw away.
Use a stout pail for the engine and tank drain and side filter. as others recommend.

Pull that under the car with you when it is time to remove the small filter. Because the oil drips from everywhere.
Let it, you have the pan!
Need to drop the oil filer, pouring out oil? The Pan! Just drop it!

It serves double duty when doing a brake job, and you have just visited the Jackal's page, and decide to clean.
Use it to catch the debris and dirty water, as you feel obligated to try and detail the wheel well area. Saves cleaning the garage floor!
Old 07-03-2019, 09:18 PM
  #25  
TheFatArmadillo
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Originally Posted by techman1
Great tips, but need to add 1, for me, major tool.

The plastic under bed storage bin. Remove the lid, throw away.
Use a stout pail for the engine and tank drain and side filter. as others recommend.

Pull that under the car with you when it is time to remove the small filter. Because the oil drips from everywhere.
Let it, you have the pan!
Need to drop the oil filer, pouring out oil? The Pan! Just drop it!

It serves double duty when doing a brake job, and you have just visited the Jackal's page, and decide to clean.
Use it to catch the debris and dirty water, as you feel obligated to try and detail the wheel well area. Saves cleaning the garage floor!
I really really should have gone this direction. Did my first oil change today, with a huge help from this thread. I thought to myself, how messy could an oil change be...

Lesson learned, great suggestion.
Old 07-04-2019, 10:12 AM
  #26  
junkart
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Punch a hole on the old filters to drain most of the oil out of the cans prior removal. Way less mess when you back them out. I use pointy phillip screwdriver and hammer instead of drill coz of space constraint. Tap lightly so you don't mess the seal seat and thread.

I don't undo the oil line to access the top filter (engine side). There is enough space around it to wiggle the can out. Perhaps the previous owner had it bent slightly to get some extra clearance?

While you're there getting dirty, clean engine / trans / lower tray with degreaser and brush.

+1 not to over fill. If you did, drain a bit then drive around for a few miles and kill some mosquitos. The engine will stutter and the smoke will clear out eventually. Recheck fluid level.
+1 cardboard for the auxiliary tank plus the famous Franny's trimmed plastic bottle on the engine side.
+1 a lift will make life a lot more bearable and meaningful.
Old 07-12-2019, 09:05 AM
  #27  
71-3.0-911
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Originally Posted by junkart
I don't undo the oil line to access the top filter (engine side). There is enough space around it to wiggle the can out. Perhaps the previous owner had it bent slightly to get some extra clearance?
I think most cars are like this. I've never detached mine and if you use a cap wrench, just loosen it until it's free. Then just pop off the extension and rotate the filter a bit and it'll fall right out. Don't need to mess with oil line at all.
Old 07-12-2019, 12:18 PM
  #28  
Edward
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Originally Posted by 71-3.0-911
I think most cars are like this. I've never detached mine and if you use a cap wrench, just loosen it until it's free. Then just pop off the extension and rotate the filter a bit and it'll fall right out. Don't need to mess with oil line at all.
I'm curious to know how many here can do this? Not me. I've been doing my own oil changes since 2001 and have always had to unbolt and pull that one oil line to provide room for the filter to come out ….just not enough room in my case. I wonder how this difference can exist from engine to engine; it seems to defy logic???

Edward
Old 07-12-2019, 01:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Edward
I'm curious to know how many here can do this? Not me. I've been doing my own oil changes since 2001 and have always had to unbolt and pull that one oil line to provide room for the filter to come out ….just not enough room in my case. I wonder how this difference can exist from engine to engine; it seems to defy logic???

Edward
I'm in the camp of NOT having to remove the oil line. Just have to angle the filter to get it out; messy but doable. Might try the trick of first punching a hole in the filter next time.
Old 07-12-2019, 02:38 PM
  #30  
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I, too, can remove the small filter w/o detaching the oil line on both the '95 and the '98. It just takes a little jiggling to find the right "path".


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