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I have a set of RH Speedline style wheels and recently discovered that the fronts are not holding full air pressure very long. While the tires looked fine, I recently did a quick pressure check and found only 10 pounds in the front tires! After topping up I found they would drop again over a few days. Took the wheels to local tire shop where I purchased the tires, and they said the seams for the 2-part wheels were leaking. They didn't remove the tires, as I wanted to get more info first.
Has anyone done this type of repair? Curious if there is any way to fix this without removing the tires, such as using the tire goop that comes with new cars in lieu of a spare tire? Or should I simply have the tires removed and apply silicone sealant to the seams?
I have a set of RH Speedline style wheels and recently discovered that the fronts are not holding full air pressure very long. While the tires looked fine, I recently did a quick pressure check and found only 10 pounds in the front tires! After topping up I found they would drop again over a few days. Took the wheels to local tire shop where I purchased the tires, and they said the seams for the 2-part wheels were leaking. They didn't remove the tires, as I wanted to get more info first.
Has anyone done this type of repair? Curious if there is any way to fix this without removing the tires, such as using the tire goop that comes with new cars in lieu of a spare tire? Or should I simply have the tires removed and apply silicone sealant to the seams?
I wouldn’t use that tire goop crap. I don’t think it will work and you don’t have control as to where it goes. Do it right and not worry - I think it should be ok to smear RTV/silicone on the seams.
If they're RH "AL Cup" models they're 2 piece, but if they're the "P RAD" model then they're 3 piece. I have the P RADs and I've had to replace an outer half in the past.
Either way, you want to reseal the joint with a product called Dow Dowsil 832 multi surface silicone sealant. A lot of multi piece wheel manufacturers use this stuff as the original sealant. Clean the area where the rim halves join really well removing all old sealant, scuff with Scotchbrite and then wipe with acetone. Run masking tape around the circumference on either side of the joint about 1/4" out. Then run a generous bead of Dow around the rim in the joint and spread it out with a gloved finger until it overlaps the tape. Then peel the tape and let it cure.
This gives a nice uniform sealant bead and should be leak free for a long time.
If they're RH "AL Cup" models they're 2 piece, but if they're the "P RAD" model then they're 3 piece. I have the P RADs and I've had to replace an outer half in the past.
Either way, you want to reseal the joint with a product called Dow Dowsil 832 multi surface silicone sealant. A lot of multi piece wheel manufacturers use this stuff as the original sealant. Clean the area where the rim halves join really well removing all old sealant, scuff with Scotchbrite and then wipe with acetone. Run masking tape around the circumference on either side of the joint about 1/4" out. Then run a generous bead of Dow around the rim in the joint and spread it out with a gloved finger until it overlaps the tape. Then peel the tape and let it cure.
This gives a nice uniform sealant bead and should be leak free for a long time.
Great info on the Dow product and application. Thanks!
Originally Posted by pp000830
I would verify the diagnosis, a leaking valve stem or Schrader valve/cap is very common. With that big a leak a little soap and water may reveal it..
Good idea, although having the problem on both wheels seems unusual. But I'll check them.
I had this happen years ago on two piece wheels, here's what I did. (At the time, I had access to a tire changer, but a shop should be willing to do this.)
Put the wheel/tire on a tire changer, mark the position of the tire on the wheel (so you can reinstall it in the same position), remove the top part of the tire, then lift the tire up (with the back part of the tire still loosely on the wheel like photo below).
While holding the tire up, clean the seam, then apply silicone sealant around the entire seam.
Lower the tire, then remount the front part of the tire onto the wheel. If you put the tire back in the same position it should still be balanced.
Seat the beads with air pressure, then install valve and fill tire.
This method insures that air pressure will force the sealant into the leaking area (instead of the sealant just being stuck to the surface).
.
Last edited by centerpunch; 08-21-2019 at 01:53 PM.
I had this happen years ago on two piece wheels, here's what I did. (At the time, I had access to a tire changer, but a shop should be willing to do this.)
Put the wheel/tire on a tire changer, mark the position of the tire on the wheel (so you can reinstall it in the same position), remove the top part of the tire, then lift the tire up (with the back part of the tire still loosely on the wheel like photo below).
While holding the tire up, clean the seam, then apply silicone sealant around the entire seam.
Lower the tire, then remount the front part of the tire onto the wheel. If you put the tire back in the same position it should still be balanced.
Seat the beads with air pressure, then install valve and fill tire.
This method insures that air pressure will force the sealant into the leaking area (instead of the sealant just being stuck to the surface).
.
Good idea! Thanks for posting. I'm pretty sure my tire guys will do this partial removal for me as they are very customer focused. I'm not clear what you mean by sealing the beads with air pressure followed by installing the valve and filling the tire. Why not just install the valve and fill the tire, in which case the pressure should seal the beads?
Everything Top-Gun State up there should be your plan if it is the main seal leaking inside. First thing you should do is to find somewhere that has a water holding tank/pool,etc. AKA something big enough to put your entire wheel in tire filled with air to find where the leak is coming from. This will rule out punctures, dry cracks, valve stems etc, and will call out specifically where in the seal is leaking as well. If you can not do this a mix of Dawn dish soap and water in a spray bottle and spray the entire wheel. If it is the actual seal for the Barrel to lip if 2 piece or all 3 pieces, than do exactly as Top-Gun said. That being said any decent Silicone from Home Depot or Lowes works, just make sure it is Weather and temp Proof and will adhere to aluminum. I used GE silicone 2+ for years.
I think the wheels are probably junk Ken. As a friend, you can ship them to me and I'll dispose of them. I'll even pay for the shipping because that's what a friend would do!
Leaky wheel halves is easy to diagnose. Did you try to tighten the bolts holding the rim halves together? You have a tub to dunk wheel in water to look for leak? Might as well paypal me cash if you are just going to throw money at it as random exercise.
I think the wheels are probably junk Ken. As a friend, you can ship them to me and I'll dispose of them. I'll even pay for the shipping because that's what a friend would do!
I always knew you were a giving person Derek. LOL
Originally Posted by chsu74
Leaky wheel halves is easy to diagnose. Did you try to tighten the bolts holding the rim halves together? You have a tub to dunk wheel in water to look for leak? Might as well paypal me cash if you are just going to throw money at it as random exercise.
Yes, the thought crossed my mind today that I should see of the bolts need tightening. May soap things first, then try the bolts. FWIW, I wasn't planning on throwing money at it as a random exercise.
I sprayed some soapy water on the wheels this afternoon and didn't see any bubbles around the valves or the rim bolts. I'm not sure if a leaky seal would show a bubble on the front face of the rim. Seems I need to get the tires partially removed as described by centerpunch and try re-sealing the seams. I'll check the tightness of the bolts at the same time.
Appreciate all the ideas presented here. (Sorry Derek, but nice try!)
Good idea! Thanks for posting. I'm pretty sure my tire guys will do this partial removal for me as they are very customer focused. I'm not clear what you mean by sealing the beads with air pressure followed by installing the valve and filling the tire. Why not just install the valve and fill the tire, in which case the pressure should seal the beads?
Standard tire-mounting procedure is to fill the tire with the valve core removed (so tire fills very fast) until both beads seat on the wheel, then remove the air hose, replace the valve core, and fill the tire to final recommended pressure. (Your tire installers would already do it that way without being told.)
As others have mentioned - don't bother doing anything until you have submersed the entire fully inflated wheel in water to identify the source of the leak. Your tire shop will have this available.
08-21-2019, 07:23 AM
Leaky 2-piece wheels
