Belts - Non-Preventative maintenance
#16
Seared
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#19
RL Community Team
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Thread Starter
Any Lotto winner will tell you Lucky trumps smart most of the time!
#20
RL Community Team
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Thread Starter
At about $600 the Clewett Pulley/belt kit represents about eleven or twelve sets of belts or eleven or twelve Mobil 1 DIY oil changes. The math just doesn't add up for me. If I took my car to the shop for regular belt changes the math would look quite different I suspect. If I lived in the wide-open spaces of the Southwest and did regular runs out of town I would consider it. but for now whenever the belt breaks I am a short jaunt from home where I can make it there on battery power alone. I then get to look forward to a little DIY belt change car therapy where the job is rewarding because it is relatively easy with a 100% positive outcome.
Andy
Andy
#21
Technical Guru
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Rennlist Member
964 owners tend to replace their drive belts at the same time as a valve adjustment (every 12-15K miles) and have next to zero issues in comparison to 993 owners...
#22
RL Community Team
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I find it interesting that on a 993 the hydraulic valve lifter cartridges usually need to be replaced somewhere around 80K miles at considerable expense.
I wonder if the math on the total cost of getting the valves adjusted every 15~20K miles up to 80K miles is the same or less than the cartridge replacement? The parts alone for a lifter cartridge change is, if you have the dealer do it, over $1500 and if you have an independent do it and insist they use the non-Porsche branded part will still be over $800. As always DIY unbranded distributor purchased parts are about $406. Then again a DIY 964 valve adjustment just involves buying 4 valve cover gaskets for $50
Andy
Last edited by pp000830; 08-29-2019 at 12:23 PM.
#23
Noodle Jr.
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I have a Clewett kit that was installed 3/18 and a few thousand miles later and no problems. Regularly use A/C, parking lights, and stereo with amp.
#24
At one point I ran the v-belt in my 993 (w/ RS hub) for 10 years and 75K miles, basically just for kicks. Always carry a spare in the trunk. The v-belt shim/pulley setup is classic German engineering -- works great when set up perfectly but it is overly complicated and sensitive and therefore prone to problems, usually due to people not setting it up just right.
#25
Three Wheelin'
A few things I learned in this thread:
0) Not all advice on Rennlist should be followed.
1) I really like the Clewett kit
2) Perhaps my posts would carry more authority if I posted them in bold font.
0) Not all advice on Rennlist should be followed.
1) I really like the Clewett kit
2) Perhaps my posts would carry more authority if I posted them in bold font.
#26
RL Community Team
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Thread Starter
Yes, bold font and ALL CAPS too for emphasis when needed, adds a little something special don't you think?
#27
I really like the Clewett kit. Ok. it's not cheap especially for a UK purchaser and I had to buy the crank pulley tool. It's not the altenator belt but the fan belt, if that goes and you have no tools and spare then you are toast. it looks neat and gives me more confidence that I won't get stranded. I once had a fan felt go on a Morris Minor. The gf donated a leg of her tights to run the water pump which lasted 50 miles. Just a query where are the tap-ins to fit the 4watt bulb? There is a blue wire into the fuse box in the engine compartment but haven't located an ignition live in there as yet.
#28
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I really like the Clewett kit. Ok. it's not cheap especially for a UK purchaser and I had to buy the crank pulley tool. It's not the altenator belt but the fan belt, if that goes and you have no tools and spare then you are toast. it looks neat and gives me more confidence that I won't get stranded. I once had a fan felt go on a Morris Minor. The gf donated a leg of her tights to run the water pump which lasted 50 miles. Just a query where are the tap-ins to fit the 4watt bulb? There is a blue wire into the fuse box in the engine compartment but haven't located an ignition live in there as yet.
I use 20g wire. Solder an appropriately-sized eye fitting to the wire and attach that to the blue wire lug on the alternator. Then route the wire (approximately 6’ long) along the harness and through the large grommet in the cooling shroud.
From there I discretely run the wire over to the driver’s side fuse box (using small black zip ties as needed). Attach this wire to one of the bulb-holder legs. The other leg of the bulb holder go to an ignition-on source (I use a slot in the SAI relay receptacle).
Andreas
#29
Rennlist Member
#30
Unfortunately (probably not) SAI is not a feature on RoW cars, no relay, no socket. The blue wire is already routed to the fuse box so no need to got to the altenator. I'll try to find an ignition live wire in the box usually red/white.